It was set to be a totally new traveling experience for all of us right from the very beginning – a whole new place with a brand new ‘crew’ for twelve days. The adrenaline was intoxicating as we touched down at Siem Reap, home to the infamous Temples of Angkor.
The short taxi ride to town was forgettable, save for the moment where everyone thought Aly had confidently plunked himself into the driver’s seat! We hadn’t realized that the car, like many others in Cambodia (and later Laos), was continental. We wasted little time as we headed straight for the heritage site right after checking in at the Angkor King Villa. The taxi cost us USD25, which we found to be a huge rip-off only later in the day.
Faizal and myself lived our Angkorian dream to the fullest – slowly sashaying through the ruins and carefully contemplating the detailed grandiose of what is the largest religious building the world has ever known! I’m unsure if the same can be said about Shahin (well, he’s been here before so a 2nd visit wouldn’t prove too much fun) but Aly was clearly disinterested (I blame the weather!). The visit culminated at the top of an adjacent hill for the over-rated sunset but the company of 4 adorable new found friends made the ascend worthwhile!
The night’s stay later proved to be fatal. We had opted out of an air-con room in the hope of saving precious bills (a two-fold surcharge for an upgrade is ridiculous!). The room became a sauna not long into the night and coupled with heavy traffic outside, everyone was guaranteed a turbulent ‘sleep’.
Day Two – Five (A Torrid Tale - Phnom Penh)
We were only too happy to check out the very next morning after what seems like the longest night. We took a bus straight for the capital, a 4-hour ride southeast. From the first instance, we concluded that Phnom Penh was going to be a scorching experience. While the Riviera was somewhat inviting with its colonial architecture, the rest of the metropolis offered very little in terms of tourist attractions. Psar Thmei fell short of Bangkok’s Chatuchak and Wat Phnom is only a little more than the ubiquitous stupa perched on a hilltop. It was here that Shahin thought we’d sneak in to escape paying the entrance fee. The hill was afterall a huge roundabout with decorative railings all around but we decided it was not even worth the effort. The city was ‘off-limits’ by day due to the scorching sun and simply too dark to navigate by night – yes, most streets are not paved, let alone lighted!
The main draws however were the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge, documented at the Tuol Sleng Museum and the killing fields at Cheoung Ek. Tuol Sleng was a former high school, converted into a detention camp during Pol Pot’s reign. It was here that many Cambodian elites were tortured, some to their deaths with unimaginable horror, in a bid to rid the country of possible opposition. It is worth noting that those who were executed were mainly government executives and professionals and their innocent family members because they were considered too ‘smart’. The bulk of the detainees were ferried to Cheoung Ek where they met their deaths in 89 mass graves, of which only 43 were ever excavated. It is within these grounds that more than 8000 innocent lives were blindfolded before being bashed in the head from the back only to tumble into huge holes that was to be their final resting place. A magnificent white stupa containing recovered bones now stands at the grounds in commemoration of the harrowing period. We owed our trip here to a well-versed guide who did well in relating to us the horrors that once befell Cheoung Ek.
Back in the city, all is not lost yet. The Riviera and the huge city park in the shadows of the War Memorial are huge hits with the locals who seem to have a penchant for outdoor sports of any kind. The most notable was this group of veteran chapteh players who stunned us with back kicks and elbow shots! Food on the other hand was not too much of a hassle either. Just a stone’s throw from Psar Thmei are 2 halal restaurants that serve typical Malay dishes at reasonable prices. Both were different in many ways. The one owned by true Cambodian Muslims boasted 2 waiters we called ‘Smart’ and ‘Mulia’. The other was owned by a Malaysian we named ‘Master of Sex’ after a long, and uninviting, lecture we had during one of our lunch escapades there. To quote him: “people must learn to master the four gifts: brain, mouth, heart, and konek/nonok”. Apparently we were too inexperienced for someone who has managed to maintain 3 wives in Kelang, Langkawi and Phnom Penh. Whether they know of each other remains questionable. Another outlet worth mentioning is the beef noodle shop that is popular with locals.
But Phnom Penh was to be more than just a sight-seeing stop for most of us. Day Three finally took its toll on Aly when his food-poisoning and diarrhoea became unbearable. I had to take him to the embassy where we were directed to a trusted Singaporean doctor at the Somary Clinic. Days Four and Five proved tough for Shahin and Faizal as well and sending Shahin to the clinic now became an all too familiar experience for me. Having overstayed for two days, we finally decided that it was best for us to leave the hell-hole for greener pastures up north. It was after dinner on Day Five that we decided to try our luck. Aly saw a glimmer of light from an already deserted bus terminus near Psar Thmei (yes, offices close after 6pm) and that was to be our ticket out of the hell hole.
Day Six (Crossing The Border - Don Det)
It didn’t take us long to get packing and leaving our germ-infested Spring Guesthouse room that morning. While leaving the comforts of a ‘working’ air-con system and a TV can be a drawback, we were all too excited about making it to Stung Treng and crossing the border for our second leg of the journey – Laos. The bus was a harrowing 9-hour journey through what is Cambodia’s backwater, pass Kompong Cham and the sleepy town of Kratie. The omnipresent palms and stretches of green pastures now became an all too familiar sight, but offered a great alternative to the Cambodian karaoke VCD played continuously in the bus.
Reaching Stung Treng at 4pm and knowing that we’re still a good 1.5 hours away from the border was somewhat a mix of relief and anxiety. While we were only too happy to have covered a considerable distance that day, we were also anxious about making it on time to go that extra mile past the border. It was the usual party of touts who greeted us as we alighted from the bus. After hearing two conflicting tales about actually making it into Laos on time, we decided to try our luck. This later proved to be the best decision yet. We met an Italian lady, Sylvia, along the way and quickly made companions with her. The border was a surprising collection of ramshackle wooden buildings and post with a draw gate, and you know that security is at its ultimate lax when the customs officer greeted us in singlet and shorts. Getting through was fortunately a brief but the ride thru the ‘jungle trail’ was a bumpy one as the car traversed a series of puddles of mud on the dirt track. This did not deter us from capturing a precious moment at the border mark.
Upon reaching the Laotian side, we transferred into a local bus (a truck with technicolour designs) driven by a pleasant lady. The trip to Ban Nakasong offered a much-needed respite from the strict confines of a stifling bus ride earlier. Soon, we found ourselves on our way to Don Det, an island part of the Si Phan Don ‘archipelago’, just in time to catch the sun bowing over the lifeline that is Mekong. Over at Don Det, we headed straight to Mama’s and Papa’s only to find it fully booked for the night. We settled for a nearby alternative and with basic rooms at USD3 and aching backs, we didn’t waste too much time settling in. Dinner at Mama’s and Papa’s was particularly enjoyable with the company of Sylvia, Mr Egg and his lovely 1-year-old son, Tat. It didn’t take us long before we decided to retire for the night.
However, the night was far from over. Back in our rooms, we were only too busy trying to find ways to keep ‘flying insects’ at bay and halfway through our chores, the generator went silent, along with the lights and fan. This was after Faizal came out halfway through a shower bearing news that there was no more water left and the tap had ran dry. Showers were then kept to a minimal and Aly had to ‘sacrifice’ to bathe in the outdoor toilet. While Faizal and I decided to remain in the room under the mosquito net, Aly and Shahin found comfort under the dazzling stars on hammocks strung out on the veranda. Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes! Unfortunately for me, the sleep on the hard mattress was an invitation to a serious neck ache. The rest were only too happy that it was now my turn groan in pain.
Day Seven (The Road North – Pakse to Vang Vieng)
As much as we fell in love with the laidback Don Det, we figured that another day there would seriously impede our journey up north. It was a glorious morning watching the Mekong slowly ebb. After requesting for the tap to be switched on that we realized the water had come directly from the river below, hence explaining its murky appearance. It wasn’t long before we left for breakfast at Mama’s and Papa’s.
Tat was his playful self yet again at the veranda. I couldn’t resist but to hold him and sat him right by my side as we had breakfast. He had the cutest smile ever and it was such a joy seeing him, let alone feeding him and watching him play with the kittens. The highlight, as Faizal would ardently point out, was my apparent negligence that left Tat in tears falling head first down the bench in an attempt to grab hold of a kitten. I maintained that it was a momentary lapse that was fuelled by an external factor beyond my control (I had to turn away only for a moment in order to reach out for my plate of banana pancake). Either way it left me feeling sore having caused an angel such pain.
The ride to Pakse, as Aly and Shahin would agree, was a grueling one not because of bumpy roads or stuffy interiors but we were unfortunate enough to have shared the local bus with that morning’s worth of market-bound goods – fish, bags and bags of them. The ‘stench’ was unbearable and the flies’ obnoxious but it was something we had to put up with for the next 1.5 hours. We were lucky we could stick our heads out of the vehicle for that desperate breathe of fresh air.
A bus and a tuk-tuk ride later, we found ourselves in a well-manicured but desolate town of Pakse, our transit onward to Vientiane. The scorching sun forced us into a roadside dessert parlour where we savoured the first inkling of the modern world in days – Cornettos and Walls’. The 8-hour wait warrants us to check into Sabaidy II Guesthouse for a short nap and quick refreshing showers. We were fortunate to have stumbled upon Jasmin Restaurant where Aly had the opportunity to satisfy his craving for ‘home’ food. Soon after dark, we found ourselves packing and on our way to the bus station for the overnight ride to the capital. The VIP bus was a worthwhile investment as it guaranteed all of us a decent night’s rest.
Day Eight-Nine (Verdant Valley – Vang Vieng)
Vang Vieng is Laotian’s answer to Guilin – stunning limestone outcrops framed by a crystal-clear river against a backdrop of clear azure sky. Unfortunately, the 4-hour ride from the capital through unforgiving mountainous terrain proved fatal for my sore neck. By the time we got off the bus, I was literally in the brink of collapse if not for the rest who offered to carry my load. We reached just in time for a late afternoon cycling trip around the town and into the surrounding countryside, after checking in at the new and very affordable Goodview Guesthouse overlooking the Nam Song.
We had time, before dark to explore the nearby limestone hills that bore so many caves. After a somewhat arduous task on bike and foot across a paddy field and trekking up some vegetation, we reached a cave, a modest one indeed, that gave us a glimpse of what Vang Vieng was made out of. Interestingly, we came across a sign after the expedition that stated that locals steer clear of these caves because they are believed to be haunted. A bit too late for buckling knees, we cycled back into town before sundown and quickly headed to an organic restaurant for dinner. I was already developing a fever as a result of stifling the pain and decided that a good Lao massage was necessary. While the rest spent some time browsing the local stores, I was in for a ‘back-breaking’ ordeal that proved to be essential. An hour later, I emerged more refreshed and definitely more ready to face the adventure the next day had to offer.
We woke up the next day with the promise of an adventure. At USD9 per person, the tubing, caving and kayaking expedition from 13km north of town was not to be missed! We had the company of 2 Britons who had signed up for the same trip.
The expedition began with a caving cum tubing trip into an underground river. The whole 1km stretch back and forth (500m each way) was much fun. It was a totally new experience for us all, wading on an inflated rubber tyre with headlamps and a battery pack round our neck. While the cavern itself was virtually lifeless, the cool water was welcoming that none of us could resist taking a dip the moment we exited the cave. We were then treated to lunch, a sumptuous one indeed with fried rice, baguette and beef kebabs before beginning the second leg of the expedition.
We did a minor trek around the Tham Sang village to nearby caves where locals have erected altars dedicated to Buddha and other effigies. We then boarded the van down to another village where we were to start our kayaking trip. It was to be a long ride if not for the many ‘bars’ along the way. The river itself was uneventful, with a series of grade I and II rapids, but the surrounding karsts that loomed above the banks offered more than just a scenic row downstream. Our midway stop was a thud-thumping makeshift bar on the Nam Song that boasted a wooden swing where patrons utilize to jump into the river. We reached in time to shelter form the short spell of ferocious downpour. Faizal and Shahin decided to have a try at the swing but were rudely turned away. Apparently, Asians had to put on the life-jacket before taking the plunge, an outright discrimination on our part. Whatever the reason may be, the damage was done as we kayaked the rest of the way down back to the town.
Save for the ‘rejects’ incident, the expedition was an enjoyable experience. Before we retired for the day, we spent one last night roaming the town’s streets where Faizal and I tried the quintessential Laotian staple – sticky rice. It was, to our dismay, a ‘dry’ affair. We bought our tickets back to the capital and headed back for a good night’s rest. By then, much to my dismay, we thought it was best we cancel the trip north to Luang Prabang.
Day Ten (Back To The Capital – Vientiane)
Apart from the magnificent views from our room’s balcony, the morning was uneventful. We had breakfast at Luang Prabang Bakery (ironically) and returned to the guesthouse to wait for our ride. We were fortunate that the ride back was far more comfortable than the earlier one considering that it was only a fraction more expensive. Just a bit after noon, we found ourselves on the streets of Vientiane hunting for a place to spend the night. It did not take us long before we found the perfect of sorts at Lao Youth Inn. While the room was not particularly appealing, the manager’s daughter was a strong enough draw – even I admitted that she was well worth our stay.
Much of the day was spent in the room playing senseless card games. It was in the late afternoon that we finally left the confines of the room to explore the quaint nerve of Lao P.D.R. The town of 200,000 strong Laotians made up for its lack of substantial attractions (That Dam and The Patuxai were the only ‘noteworthy’ ones) with the ease of navigation. A short walk later found ourselves back at our guesthouse. All except Aly went out for a quick bite by the waterfront just across the street from where we stayed. The grilled fish, chicken and spring rolls made for a good snack along with cool beverages.
Day Eleven (Hello Thailand – Udon Thani)
We had breakfast at the famed Scandinavian Bakery before checking out at noon. We then made our way to Talat Sao – arguably Vientiane’s commercial and transportation hub. Although it is stocked up with goods to the brim, it was still a far cry from Chatuchak so shopping was not particularly rewarding save for the local girl who paddled handicrafts down the street beside Talat Sao Mall. Haggling was a pleasure and with the good photo opportunities presented, it made up for an enjoyable ‘trading’ experience. We ‘camped’ in the air-con comfort of the new mall as we await our departure to Udon Thani at 4pm.
Crossing to Thailand via the Friendship Bridge was far less a hassle than we would imagine. Nonetheless, compared to the non-existent border security at Si Phan Don, the step-up made for an experience that is closer to home. Udon Thani, like the ‘bible’ mentioned, was uninspiring and not worth the stay in the backpacker’s trail. However, the ubiquitous modern amenities such as 7-11 stores and a full-blown mall in the town center made Aly a jolly fellow. This prompted Aly to lament that we should have been in Udon Thani a day earlier instead of spending the night at Vientiane. A KFC meal and a movie treat later, we found ourselves ready to leave it all behind and embrace the comforts of home.
Day Twelve (Bon Voyage – Singapore)
It was by far our earliest morning. We quickly packed and left straight for the airport from our hotel. I, on the other hand, left Indochina with a heavy heart… so many things, so little time, too many left unaccomplished… vowing to return in the near future…
