en-VY 07 - Here Come The Photos

Ok we're finally back in Vietnam and it isn't exactly tropicale here because we've been up in Sapa for the past 3 days. The weather was brilliant on the 1st day but the latter 2 have been extremely foggy. We managed to squeeze in a trek to Cat Cat Village this morning and were glad that abundant photographic opportunities presented themselves.

We left China with mixed feelings, but the main aim of this entry is to finally to put a 'face' to what we have described thus far. So here are some photos (amateurish... I know but we haven't really got access to photoshop)...

The 3 of us en route to Hoi An from Saigon. A true reflection of what our journey was purely about - the long and (extremely) winding road...

Hoi An is a darling, like I've mentioned.

The thing I love about Hoi An is the ubiquitous silk lanterns for USD2 only! I simply couldn't resist...

At the gates of Hue's Imperial Enclosure within the citadel.

The many roadside florists in Hanoi's Old Quarter.

Brothers in Islam - celebrating Aidiladha in Kunming.

The adorable Ma Si Yi.

Deep in thought at Yunnan University.

Down memory lane - still at Yunnan University.

Naxi cat - Lijiang.

Soaking up the atmosphere in old Lijiang.

Lounging in Zhongdian.

Flying high - Feilai Si at our very own Shangri-La - Deqin.

Basking in that 'Himalayas' feeling with Meilixue Shan in the background - Deqin.

Of 'blessings' and charity - monks from the Red Hat Sect.

en-VY 07 - Back From The Highlands (Part 2)

Flip to any recently-published travel directory and you would notice that Zhongdian would be referred to as Shangri-La, China's own claim to James Hilton's 'Lost Horizon' fame. However, to use Shangri-La in place of Zhongdian, I feel, is unjustified. The image conjured up by this yet-another Han Chinese cookie-cutter remake falls short of the highly-regarded notion of paradise on earth. Instead, it would have been better suited for it's rival, Deqin, nestled in the valleys of the Hengduan range.

The bus ride to Zhongdian was surprisingly a short one (5 hours compared to the previous 10-hour journeys). On the way, we passed by Hu Tiao Xia (Tiger Leaping Gorge) and were tempted to join the group of backpackers who alighted at Qiaotou but our finances, or rather, mine, dictated otherwise. The rest of the journey saw us winding through dry mountain valleys and at least 2 dams, a symbol of China's incessant drive towards modernity.

As mentioned, Zhongdian is uneventful, with the exception of an old Tibetan neighbourhood at the southern end of the town and the massive town square where community dance seemed to be a nightly ritual. The main landmark of the old neighbourhood was a Tibetan temple perched atop a hill. Although it was nothing special, it provided a brief creative respite to an otherwise tourism-barren landscape. And, at the town square, after much cajoling, we braved ourselves to join the herd displaying nifty footwork to traditional Tibetan tunes. That was much fun for Aly finally broke out of his macho disposition.

The night was unbearably bleak in our 25Yuan/person room as there was no heater (nope, not even for running water). Fortunately, Zhongdian was never meant to be a stop for us so purchasing our ticket out to Deqin (43Yuan) was first on our list. The ride started off miserably as I desperately tried to save my toes from freezing (don't ask how). 3 hours later, we were treated to our first sight of snow on our journey thus far. From then on, it was the unfolding of Shangri-La before our very eyes, culminating at the the top of a mountain pass 4210m above sea level. The view was B-R-E-A-T-H-T-A-K-I-N-G. Never did we imagine that the Himalayas would materialise in our lifetime.

Upon reaching Deqin, our true Shangri-La, we met up with a lone Funanese traveller, Jian Jun, who offered to accompany us. We soon found out that he was a mistake of sorts as he blatantly took us to the road to Feilai Si without giving us the chance to deposit our load at the town's guesthouse. While I admit that the Feilai Si visit was the highlight of the trip as we feasted on a full-frontal view of Meilixue Shan, I was seethering under the cold for having been dragged with the full load on our backs. "It's just the Chinese way of doing things," Aly reasoned. The rest was downhill, literally. Jian Jun took us on a taxi ride on the opposite direction and we were almost stranded at the base of Mingyong Glacier if not for a passing vehicle headed back to town. By then, it was nearing sun down and we even witnessed a landslide on the opposite bank of the Lancang Jiang. It was a good thing that we only needed to fork out 20Yuan/person for that night's stay.

That night was a deciding moment of sorts for us. Running low on cash and heavily beaten by the sheer cold of winter, we opted for a ride back to Kunming on yet another sleeper bus (223Yuan/person). This time, we were smarter to have chosen the upper deck instead, but halfway through the trip, my neighbour decided that her stomach could not hold any longer and out came her day's meals. That threatened to upset the rest of the journey but the thought of returning to warmer climate kept us going.

Having survived the gruelling 19-hour ride, we found ourselves at the comfort of Kunming's pleasant weather once again. But our journey on China's famed ancient Tea & Horse Trail remains, in one way or another, firmly etched on our hearts and minds...

en-VY 07 - Back From The Highlands (Part 1)

I don't know if I should bore all with an extremely long account of the missing 5 days but I'm surely glad we're out of the cold, into the warm embrace of Kunming once again. The past 5 days were eventful to say the least - one of pure doubt, torture, self-discovery, exhilaration, and amazement. Little did we expect that the journey to Zhongdian and Deqin was possible but we pressed on, and when we passed that hurdle, we found ourselves battling our wits with the weather, only to be rewarded by the sheer beauty that formed the essence of the excruciating ride.

The journey began on the 20th at Kunming, the heart of Yunnan Province. We were fortunate to have had the opportunity to celebrate Hari Raya Haji, or 'Gu Er Ban Jia Jie' as it is known here, with the local Muslim community. I wasn't used to the cold then but the thought of observing one of Islam's historical milestone in a foreign land kept us going. Literally, we were lost sheeps in a sea of unfamiliar faces, united by the solidarity of Muslim brotherhood. The rituals were somewhat different from what we are used to back in Singapore but it did not fail to capture the spirit of the festival. To have witnessed Islam thriving in Kunming was enlightening and humbling at the same time. One of the highlights during the 'Gu Er Ban' observation was a local Muslim girl, Ma Si Yi, whom we took a photo of.

That night, we literally dived into the wilderness by purchasing a sleeper bus ticket to Lijiang. A note to all: if you ever plan to travel in China by night, DO NOT even consider the sleeper bus. It is, to say the least, GERMS-ON-WHEELS. You get the ubiquitous spitting, nose-blowing, and if you're very lucky, the occasioanal vomitting, onto the carpeted floor of the bus. It is worst if you get the bottom row of the double-decker 'beds' for it is even remotely possible to configure what you just inhaled. And the silly thing was, we 'locked' ourselves up in the bus for an additional 45 minutes thinking that the bus has yet to reach Lijiang.

Lijiang, despite the blistering cold in the morning, was a darling, especially to budding and amateur photographers alike. There are countless photo opportuinities at every bend of this UNESCO-protected ancient Naxi town. It is easy to get lost in it's cobbled streets and you totally wouldn't mind it a bit but getting lost in its modern counterpart just across the street is a different story. That was what happened when we searched in vain for Lijiang's main bus station to purchase an onward ticket to Zhongdian only to discover that it was recently moved to another part of town. The worst part was even the locals seemed oblivious to such a major relocation.

Despite it's scenic location and photographic blessings, Lijiang was where I faced 2 major hurdles in the trip thus far - a stomach upset and the bitter cold. It could have been the spicy dinner in Kunming or the roadside satays but I won't point any fingers. As for the cold, let's just say that I totally underestimated the weather and it didn't help that the room wasn't equipped with a heater. Physical and environmental challenges aside, Zhongdian awaits.

en-VY 07 - In Touch Again

Ok, I guess my plan to update this blog on a daily basis may well backfire because 1) there's just soooo many things to write about, and 2) internet is subject to availability and consistency. Thus, I've decided to ramble in a cohesive paragraph about the journey from 18th Dec onwards...

We left very early on the 18th for Lao Cai via train, which was, considering we bought the cheapest ticket, was not too pleasant a ride. However, it was a ride worth every mention because of the colourful people we met on that 10-hour journey. One thing's for sure, the locals, especially those from rural areas, are amiable but somewhat lacking in the mannerism department. None would hesitate taking up any empty space available on the train, even if it's next to you, although they have not paid for the necessary ticket. Apparently, the notion of private space is absent from their vocabulary. Nonetheless, they made for a very interesting ride to Lao Cai.

Determined to get on a sleeper bus to Kunming that night, we hurriedly crossed the border into Hekou. Just when we thought that Kunming was within sight, I was the subject of a drama that unfolded at the Chinese immigration. Apparently, trusting Aly's account of the mandarin exchange he had with the officers, they suspected that my old Singapore passport was a fake. They even questioned my inability to converse in Chinese after testifying that I am Singaporean. I mean... HELLO? Haven't they heard that there are Malays, Indians, and Others in Singapore? And to think that they are working for the imiigration authority... how ignorant. Worse still, the hold-up made us missed the Kunming bus by 15 minutes. We had no choice but to stay the night. While walking around Hekou after dinner, we spotted an unusual sight. Right there, on a square overlooking the Vietnamese border, was a group of middle-aged ladies gyrating to Hindi tunes! Aly sure got a taste of home. We found that peculiar and entertaining at the same time!

We left for Kunming the next morning. The ride was forgettable but the scenery definitely wasn't. The bus trailed up and down steep valleys that threatens the courage of even the bravest of souls! 9 hours later, we made it to Kunming safe and sound, albeit underestimating the weather. I had my first taste of winter the moment i stepped of the bus. Although known as the City of Eternal Spring, situated at around 1600m above sea-level, Kunming made for a chilly night out, at least for me. On the way to our hostel, we met Osman, a street-vendor selling the best tasting beef satays we ever had. We also took the chance to ask him about Aidiladha celebrations in Kunming and he kind-heartedly gave us directions to the central mosque. After checking in, we had dinner at a now-defunct Muslim Quarter (sadly) and did a walkabout where we met Mansor, another street-vendor. We were amazed at the 'visibility' of the Muslim community in Kunming. As we headed back to the hostel, we concentrated on the prospects of celebrating our first Aidiladha in a foreign country and social context.

More of the celebrations and the journey to Lijiang and Zhongdian later. Now that we're high up in the mountains, 3460m above sea-level to be exact, the internet certainly doesn't come cheap and easy! If you must know, we'll be heading up to Deqin tomorrow ad then back to Kunming. Shall catch up then!

en-VY 07 - Blogging Backlog

Phew~ Finally got hold of a computer with internet access after 4 days of oblivion! And having said that, surely you'd expect 4 days worth of blogging backlog. Oh well, I shall attempt to make this entry a less painful read than it is for me typing it. By the way, I am writing this in an internet cafe right smack in the middle of Kunming while waiting for our overnight bus to Lijiang. So pardon me if the entry gets 'cut off' prematurely as it would probably mean that I would have to rush off to the bus station...

17 Dec 07 - Juan Tana Mera

Ok, that was lame~ anyhoots, it was indeed our last day with Juan, and Fabius. Juan will be off to Halong Bay while Fabs will be making his way back home to attend a cousin's wedding (bummer!). How did I start the day off? the usuals, off course. So, I got up at around 6.30am and wandered the depth of the streets (the infamous Hanoi old Quarter, mind you) alone. Yup, I figured that it's the best time to get inspiration for nice photographs. This time round, inspiration came in the form of an elderly Ang Moh who, I assumed having lived, or visited, Hanoi for some time now, offered a photography tip as I was triggering happily on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake. It was timely off course as I wouldn't want to waste good photo opportunities high up in the Tibetan highlands with my dismal photographic skills.

The rest of the day was pretty much mundane as we were rather lethargic by midday. Had lunch at the Whole Earth Restaurant where I met a mid-aged Australian who was waiting outside the restaurant waiting for an Irish couple for lunch (you would hear of him again later!). We purchased train tickets to Lao Cai (as they no longer offer a straight route to Kunming) at 82000D for hard seats (yes, we're 'budget through and through) and then later walked back to Shoe Street to have my broken sandals repaired.

Later that night, we had our last dinner with Juan who had had quite an interesting day out at the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre. Now, here's where the mid-aged Australian appeared again, this time startling me from the back as I was engrossed viewing the display of a DVD shop waiting for Aly and Fabs to rummage for great buys. It was odd, we thought, as we bumped into him plying the streets of the Old Quarter thrice that very day. I hope it's not any sort of a lucky charm...

After dinner, we headed for a local 'beer garden' which was, really, 3 stalls offering local beer for 2500D a glass at a back alley junction. Aly insisted that, despite the many photographs taken of him nd Juan engaged in a hearty conversation flanked by two glasses of beer at the forefront, only Fabs and Juan had their generous share of alcohol that night. Nonetheless, the 'humbling' experience (sitting on low stools by a less-than-hygienic roadside al fresco style) was a memorable seal to the night...

*Shitzer, the bus' calling... watch this space!*

en-VY 07 - Hello Hanoi

I fell in love with Hoi An so much that I actually woke up at 5am local time to catch the sunrise. Unfortunately, the sky was pretty much overcast but witnessing the town slowly awakens to the bustle of fishermen pulling ashore at the Central Market and the steady stream of school children on bicycles clogging up the streets was priceless!

I only managed to spend an extra hour by myself in the town centre before heading back to the hotel for the connecting bus ride to Hue. It wasn’t a long ride but a boring one nonetheless. Upon reaching Hue, we did not waste any time and headed straight for the citadel. Located just across the river from where the bus dropped us off, the citadel, to my surprise, remained largely intact! The highlight for me was definitely the visit to the imperial enclosure within the citadel (it was well worth the USD4 compared to the dismal My Son Holyland). The enclosure itself was a ruined replica of the Forbidden City but the thought of what it could have been like just a century ago left me awe-inspired.

The scorching heat did not make the visit to the citadel any more conducive but I must admit that I enjoyed myself thoroughly! 3 hours marked the limit of our visit before we headed back across the Perfume River for lunch at Omar Khayym’s just in time for the evening bus to Hanoi.

We were fortunate to have met Juan again on the ride to Hanoi that night. It was the worst ride by far but he kept me company throughout most of the night. The unprecedented meet-up also proved favourable for both parties because we got a discounted rate at the Nam Hai 1 Hotel within the Old Quarter for just USD5 a night/person, plus the company of someone new.

Hanoi, in all its hustle and bustle, tucks in an old world charm that pervades its Old Quarter. Coupled with the perfect cool air, the undoubted heartbeat of Hanoi is a traveller’s paradise and playground – plenty of food, cheap bargains, and surprises at every corner. Truly gems are the Bia Minh (excellent milk coffee) and Whole Earth Restaurant (very reasonable price). I personally adore the way in which the streets are categorized according to the goods sold on them! It is efficient and charming at the same time! And with so many things going on at the same time (shoppers haggling, cars honking, hawkers touting, and bikes zipping) there is truly no short of the perfect photo opportunity!

Much of Hanoi is left to be explored…

en-VY 07 - The Hoi An Adventure

USD22 can really get you a long way… a long way indeed, but at the price of a sore bottom. We decided that an open ticket was the best way to get to Hanoi via Hoi An and Hue, especially because we (or rather, Aly and Fabius) intend to get to Hanoi by Sunday morning to catch the evening’s clash between Man U and Liverpool. While the open ticket was a good idea, the choice of bus company proved a mistake, as the story unfolds…

We were on an overnight bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An when Fabius discovered that his Lumix and Ipod were missing. When we raised the alarm later, to our dismay, the co-driver showed very little emphathy and did nothing much to help us recover the stolen belongings. He did a very brief search, informed the driver, and went back to sleep. We were surprised at his lack of concern, especially Fabius who had to deal with the loss and was clearly too distraught to get any sleep.

If that wasn’t enough, we attempted to make a police report at the Hoi An Police Station. This proved to be a greater challenge as no one apparently understood the concept of insurance and our intentions were quickly misconstrued. We had a hard time explaining that all we had wanted was to get a report done for the sake of claiming insurance. This did not come through until much later when a male officer entered to clear up the mess. By then, the damage was done – raised voices, frayed nerves, aching calves shuttling between the station and the ticket office, and sheer frustration over misinterpreted messages. In the end, the report was never completed but we managed to end it all on a lighter note and both sides apologised for the miscommunication. There was goodwill after all amidst crisis…

That aside, the bus ride was not eventful, with the exception of Juan, a 27-year-old Chilean travelling alone on SEA. It took us quite a while to open up to each other but as soon as we reached Hoi An, we were separated into different hotels. That very morning, we booked into Ving Huy Hotel just outside the main town. Upon checking in, we signed up for a USD3 tour of the My Son ruins. I must admit that I had been warned against it but the price seemed reasonable, only to find out later that it was not inclusive of the USD4 entrance fee. Having visited Angkor Wat, the Cham ruins did very little to ignite any inkling of interest in a temple freak like me. Nonetheless, the brief trip gave me the chance to get to know 2 dutch ladies, Miraelle and Ilse, as well as a Canadian couple, Sharon and Roger, who were also ‘duped’ into signing up for the half-day tour. I had a meaningful exchange indeed with the Canadian couple who will be spending Christmas at Cua Dai Beach just outside Hoi An.

Hoi An is a quaint little town that, with its stunning French architecture and laidback yet colourful lifestyle, I grew to love. I’m not too sure if the same could be said about Aly (because he finds it difficult to appreciate such fine things in life) as well as Fabius (who lost his mood along with his beloved camera and Ipod) but I sure had a wonderful time capturing Hoi An’s understated grandeur in still life.

en-VY 07 - Saigon Reflection

I am writing this in the capacity of a foreigner who has come to love a city that teems with life, where poverty and luxury come in such close contact as the pebbles in a gurgling stream, in his brief 3-day stint – Saigon.

Saigon, emblazoned in its new moniker, Ho Chi Minh City, reeks of old charm and simplicity. However, a short walk on the streets slaps you with the reality that modernity has indeed caught up with this cosmopolitan of 7 million. “If you visit Saigon in 2/3 years time, you probably have to walk,” our guide chirped as he drove us to Cu Chi early this morning for a visit to the infamous war tunnels (USD5 plus entrance fee of 70,000d per person). That is how bad the streets will be congested by then…

Just yesterday, as we walked along Duong Pasteur in search for a popular ice cream parlour that I came across an old lady peddling herbs at a street junction. I gestured to take a photo of her, but in that brief exchange of hand signals, I understood why she was reluctant to accede. I guess money has caught up with everything… but everybody needs to get by, at the expense of a ready smile…

Across the street, a group of men nestled on the sidewalk watching their fellow countrymen clinch a spot in the SEA Games soccer finals against the Burmese… and suddenly, it occurred that we are not that different. Despite the glaring poverty and hardship, we still share a passion for sports and above all solidarity with their fellow brothers. As I reflect back on the 3-day journey we had here, what struck me the most is the hospitality of its people, how they are humbled by circumstances. From the owner of the Bombay Muslim Restaurant near Sheraton, to the shopkeeper at The Post, to the ladies who took care of us at Kim’s, they share a common intrigue and appreciation in cultures that are ever so foreign to them. And it’s amazing that that had never threatened their simple way of life.

Saigon hides its many alluring back alleys and colonial grandeur amid towering glass masses and concrete slabs, but one would be quick to agree that they only escape the eyes of those who fail to stop and smell the roses. I’m sure many have escaped me in this many, and regrettably so. But as long as the spirit yearns for a quick getaway from the hassle of life, Saigon will always be there to welcome with open arms…

en-VY 07 - The Road to HCMC

It was a promising start… until we reached the airport! Our Tiger airways flight, scheduled at 1240h, was delayed to 1700h due to technical difficulties! Then, it started to pour (thanks to the monsoon!) and that too threatened to push us back for the day! It wasn’t until 1745h when we finally took to the skies… it was a TURBULENT day, literally…

We met up with Fabius at HCMC’s spanking new Tan Son Nhat International Airport in the evening. We had the privilege of making new acquaintances, Murni and Anne, who were Singapore-born Jakarta and Perth residents respectively. The brief chat we had with them offered us some assurance as it was both our first time visiting HCMC.

We took a cab (no more buses after 1800h, bummer!) from the airport to the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker’s district for USD7. The ride left us awestruck… both at the amount of the mostly two-wheeled traffic as well as the dexterity of the riders in weaving through the tangled commotion.

Entrusting our fate in the hands of the travel bible (Lonely Planet of course!) and Faizal’s suggestion, we managed to find a decent accommodation at Minihotel Alley. However, we did not get a room at Mimi’s (as Faizal recommended) so we opted for Kim Hotel instead (USD15 for three). It turned out to be a fair option, especially after a harrowing experience with a persistent hotel owner on the adjacent street, in what we christened the Street of the Angry Lady.

It did not take us too long to settle down as our hungry stomachs soon guided us to the streets in search for food. After a short walkabout, we settled for Hoa Don Spicy Indian Restaurant. A reasonable spread on the menu but the execution left us much to be desired. Terrible Tom Yum, according to Aly. I couldn’t agree more… we squeezed in another short walkabout, only to find ourselves harassed by two ladies on bikes!

This morning saw us exiting to the streets at an ‘unearthly hour’, by Vietnamese standards... By 0945h, the streets were abuzz with the ubiquitous horde of motorcyclists. We made our way to Pho 2000 for some wholesome Vietnamese noodles (at least I think so) and then right into the adjacent Ben Thanh Market for some knick-knacks. We got ourselves some good deals!

Oh well, here we are back at Kim’s at 1400h local time, blogging because Aly had to settle some school admin at noon. We’re sure to hit the streets again in a matter of minutes before contemplating a bus ride up to Hoi An as early as tomorrow night!

en-VY 07 - The Wait

Ok, the flight is tomorrow (1240hrs) and by this time tomorrow, I assume we would all be sipping some serious Vietnamese coffee on a roof top cafe somewhere in HCMC! The worse part is... I CANT WAIT FOR TOMORROW TO COME!

Anyway, Faizal and Layla just got back (via email of course) about the trip! 4 days after departure and they're in Hanoi already, waiting for the ride to Halong. A few (un)healthy developments though:

1. Flower's guesthouse in HCMC upped the price to USD12 per room. However, the one right next to it promises 10USD rooms with free internet!
2. Stay at Hello Vietnam in Hanoi! It's on the same street as Lonely Planet's author's pick (Citygate) which sadly increased their price to 20USD...

Thanks Zal! Shall await more news from him soon...

And oh, we may skip Nha Trang entirely just so that we could spend a little more time in Hanoi! Watch this space for the latest on-the-trip updates!

en-VY 07 - Head Start

Ok so here I am at the airport in the middle of the exam week, sending Faizal and Layla off to Vietnam… sheesh I am sooo excited I could barely wait for that extra 5 days!

Before Faizal left, he had kindly documented his two-week Vietnam foray last December for our perusal. I shall spare those details here as I would paint this site with a journal of our own but the document gave us a much-needed head start considering the severely limited planning time due to the exams!

So here’s a list of some noteworthy accommodations he patronized in his previous trip:

Hop Yen Hotel (Hoi An): 16A, Nhi Trung
Ocean Stars Hotel (Hanoi): 45, Bat Su Street
Hau Guesthouse (HCMC): 40/9, Bui Vien Q1 (near Sept 23 Park)

Since Faizal will be in Vietnam again from today till the 15th, we have planned for him to leave a ‘trail’ of photographs along the way just so the guesthouses’ owners could recognize us when we get there! Let’s just see how this amazing race-inspired trail works out!

Can’t wait! … ok, back to revisions now~