I just realized that I’m not one for bite-size accounts. My travelogue is best read with a hot cuppa and lots of spare time.
We were paid to board the pre-paid taxi from Indira Gandhi Airport to Sarai Kale Khan Bus Terminal at the heart of New Delhi. What could have burnt 280Rs in our pockets gained us 120Rs through a mistake in accounting on the taxi receptionist’s end.
Delhi is a non-descript administration concrete jungle but we were treated to a generous dosage of men taking a piss on road sides. Sarai Kale Khan was no exception as the stench of urine quickly greeted our olfactory senses. By all means, we were lucky to have arrived on time for the bus to Agra. For 195Rs each and a 6-hour ride which seemed like an eternity, we were ushered into the ancient Mughal capital by dusk.
350Rs for a room at Saii Palace was reasonable enough at the infamous Taj Ganj. Upon checking in, we rushed up to the rooftop terrace and there it was – the pride of Shah Jahan. By then, the sun was fast disappearing below the horizon, which left us with nothing much to do for the day except to await the arrival of the new year.
Having been traveling for the past 24 hours, we quickly made a quick dash for the recommended Joney’s Place, but not before buying marble souvenirs from the ultra-persuasive and equally charming Mr. Mohamed Ahmed Khan. Earning a place in Lonely Planet India is a mean feat for this quaint old-timer. The banana lassi is to-die-for and the simple spicy mains are a definite draw, so much so that Marty, a German whom we asked to have dinner with us as this lone figure wandered into the eatery, had been returning for more in his 10 days in Agra.
We wasted no time after dinner and returned to the lodge for a countdown party. For 300Rs, I must say the spread of Indian staples were impressive but not quite worth the cover charge, especially considering that the owner killed the party on us shortly after midnight. This led to a tiff between Emile, a French who’s currently studying in Singapore, and a staff, which his mum mediated quite professionally. Unbattered, the party of 3 Mexicans, 3 Russians, 2 French and 2 Singaporeans stomped the party at Shanti Lodge and outstayed – let alone outdanced – the lodge’s guests themselves. By 0300h local time, we were ready to head back.
The night could have ended then but the younger lads decided for a chat on the roof deck. It was freezing to say the least but we enjoyed a rather meaningful and humour-riddled exchange under Agra’s twilight. New year, new environment, new company, and a whole new world before our very eyes – one could not have asked for a better night.
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