Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - A Tale Of Two Cities

It's Day 12 and we just landed in Taiwan. Just 6 hours ago, we were in Manila. I guess this would be a timely entry since we transcended 2 cities in a single day. And to be blunt, the transition was as stark as a journey from hell to heaven.

We took a Florida bus from Banaue and pulled into the capital 10 hours later. We were in the mountains for 7 days so we must have gotten used to the cold, right? Well, not when you're on board Florida - apparently they only believe in switching the air-con off or at full blast, nothing in between. I froze, for the first time in a long time, the previous one on the way to Deqin in the Himalayas. The bus aside, the capital was really err... a huge mess with capital M E S S - exhaust-stained buildings, a gazillion vagabonds, rubbish, broken sewer, flowing gunk they call rivers, and F***ed-up attitude. Oh and I figured you'd probably be healthier if you smoke cos inhaling the putrid concoction of fumes they call air would cut back your life span by at least 10 years, and that's if you're on the lawns of Rizal Park. Ok, we only did 8 hours of Manila today and our perceptions may be skewed but hey, first impression counts! And let me tell you about their new Terminal 3. We were there to catch our Cebu Pacific flight to Taipei and desperately needed to draw cash from an ATM to pay for airport taxes. There were none that accepted international cards. I had to travel a good 40min out to the nearest barangay (being Baclaran) and back in sweltering Pinoy sun just to get P2500. Thank god we were at the airport early.

The flight departed on time but we were in deep turbulence for much of the journey as the plane traversed the height of a typhoon over the East China Sea. We arrived safely and unlike Manila, Taipei is much much much better. We've only been here for 4 hours and we loved it to bits already. I mean, what's there not to like? Good transportation network, good-looking people, well-dressed youngsters, well-lined streets, handsome buildings, and brilliant amenities. It sort of reminded us of the glory of Kunming, only on a much larger scale. We can't wait to explore the city tomorrow, starting with local breakfast and then some trekking at Yangmingshan Nature Park.

Well, lucky for us, Iim finally ready to upload some photos of our Luzon Loop so far (the past 11 days) so here's a sneak peek! The rest will be uploaded on Facebook when I get back, or when I have the mood and time here:

A stretch of North Luzon near Vigan

Vigan's Mestizo District

Metropolitan Baguio

Hanging coffins at Echo Valley, Sagada

Native Kankanays at Demang, Sagada

Gorgeous Bomod-ok Falls, Sagada

Room view of the Alimit River rapids of Banaue

The 'Amphitheatre' - Batad

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Ifugao Intrigue

This may well be the place where Wet Wet Wet got their name. Ok, that was lame. Super. But I'm serious. Like dead serious. It's our 4thy day here in Banaue, the much-hyped-about gateway to the UNESCO-listed rice terraces of the Ifugaos. But truth is, it had been raining for the past 3 days here save for today - which by the way boasts brilliant sunlight - and you get that general feeling that you're drowning. We stayed at the People's Lodge and I love it here, especially Halmoonim!

It's nice for a change to hear the roar of rapids some 50m down the ravine everytime you wake up, coupled with the ubiquitous crow of roosters and that very irritating black dog just a floor below. Despite the gloomy forecast, we finally did that Batad trek yesterday, yes after 2 days of being cooped up in the room - can't be help, Aly was feeling under the weather and you know just how adorable sick people get, haha! Anyway, it started with perfect weather, which was around 9am, and by 10am we were already trodding that 2km up the 'saddle' to get to Batad. For the uninitiated, Batad is undoubtedly the world's best place to view traditional Ifugao rice terraces which was built some 2000 years ago. They call it the 'Amphitheatre' and an amphitheatre it was! The whole 1h40min treak to Batad was well worth it though we were cursing each other under our breaths (or rather, in between CATCHING our breaths) on the return leg. It was to me every bit worth the walk but I reckon we're both sick to our guts at the sight of anymore of these lush green steps for we have seen enough to last a lifetime - after Batad, that is.

Oh and did I mention the road? Well, LP got it right when they say that Banaue, together with Batad, offers that charming aura of isolation for its remoteness and that's pretty much reflected in the road conditions. That 2 hour jeepney ride (which I assume doubles as a 4X4) traversed some of the worst road conditions known to mankind - pebble strewn, cracked, partially paved, landslide debris, and ultimately nerve-wrecking blind corners with instant-death drop-offs. But we've got some interesting experiences on the road as well. Just yesterday, on our way back from Batad on a tricycle (which charges P600 return trip from Banaue to Batad Junction) the tire burst and we had to stop in the middle of nowhere to get it fixed. The driver did all that in the rain, at the risk of a sudden mass movement sweeping us off into the valley.

For what it's woth, I believe our stint in Banaue and Batad was rather rewarding and relaxing. The room here (P500 for a double) met our expectations. There's even a laundry service (P50/kg) in town which Aly is particularly thankful for, and decent food just next door at Greenview. Though, just a note, if you're adamant on doing your own washing like I did, be prepared to have your clothes dried only after 2 days cos quite honestly, that's how long we haven't seen the sun, or maybe more for the locals here considering it was raining when we got here 4 days back.

Well, we're off to Manila tonight at 8pm. Got the tickets form the Florida Bus Company (P450 each) and we should hit the big mother-effing city by 6am tomorrow. though we can't wait to pamper ourselves in urbane trappings, I have this overwhelming feeling that I'll miss the Cordilleras, especially the warm and sunny smiles of the people which never fails to ofset the gloomy overcast.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - The Mountain Province

It's Day 08 on our calendar and quite honestly, it only felt like we arrived 2/3 days back unless of course you've been an ardent follower and noticed the time lag between this post and the last. To be exact, we're now in Banaue, the 4th stopover on our North Luzon assault. We were in Sagada the previous 3 nights and Baguio the night before that.

Vigan was pretty nondescript save the Mestizo District. Even then, you know that being on the World Heritage list in the Philippines somewhat means artificial reproduction for tourist consumption. We made an exit for Baguio after 2 nights. This undisputed king of the highlands has the trappings of any big city but still clings on to a small-world feel. It was a rude awakening considering how quiet the streets of Vigan were! We enjoyed its busy streets and crowded sidewalks and lo and behold, there was even a very visible Muslim community in town! We finally had our first Halal meal by a Mindanao-born lady at a local hawker centre. Unfortunately, we could only afford a night there, which was nicely capped off with doughnuts and hot chocolate (and what must have been Aly's 13th cigarette stick) by Burnham Park in the middle of town (and some serious people-watching!).

The reason why I'm only writing this now (believe me, 5 days of backlog isn't fun) is because internet is quite the luxury up here in the Cordillera. Bad news for tech-dependents but it adds up to the charm of these verdant valleys - it exudes a sort of aura of isolation - and I'm loving it.

Sagada was every bit what I imagined it to be, and more. Ok, maybe the architecture isn't quite authentic (how traditional can zinc houses get?) but there are a few that took pains to emulate European brickhouses and log cabins complete with chimneys and planted window sills. However, it was still the kind of place where you could lose yourself for an entire weekend (quite literally)! The stay at Sagada Guesthouse was rewarding - basic and clean yet roomy and bright. It was a total transformation from our worst night so far at Baguio's Silvertone.

Even better were the outdoors! Nestled at a height of 1577m in Luzon's Mountain Province, the pine forest radiates an other-worldly charm to complement the extremely cool mountain air. With an abundance of treks available around town, we just couldn't wait to try one. And try we did! Our 2nd day in Sagada saw us descending the steep and slippery sheer limestone surfaces into Echo Valley, home to some of the area's hanging coffins. The ever-gungho Aly had to literally drag me down the cliffs, given that I thought the trek would be somewhat a walk in a park. I was on all four most of the time, picking through the thick undergrowth. A fresh landslide, river-crossings and 2 hours later, we completed the trail. It was rewarding actually, and definitely the sort of thing Aly was looking forward to.

Our last day in Sagada saw us trekking the road out to Bangaan, 4km away from town, to try our luck at the Bomod-ok Falls. We had initially planned to visit more coffins at the Lumiang Caves but after 2 recommendations by Lucia (a Slovakian) and Katie (a British), we couldn't resist. However, we started the day first with a short walk to Demang to witness a 'begnas', a traditional Applai ritual to honour the gods at the end of the harvest season. We were lucky indeed as the rituals only take place 3/4 times a year! Definitely at the right place at the right time. By 11.30am, we were on the road again with Lynie and James (Filipinos we met during pevious night's dinner). The steady incline and great companion (coupled with some moderate drizzle) made for an enjoyable walk. More demanding was the descent, and ascent, to/from Bangaan. The stairs were moss-covered and I was barefooted at some points, not willing to risk a fatal slip into the ravine. However, the falls was every bit worth the effort! It must have been a 60-70m drop from sheer limestone cliffs and the force literally blew us away! It must have been some typhoon-force gusts at the plunge pool and according to Aly, the pool was indeed deep. Given the chance, I'd walk back to Bomod-ok.

Considering that the food here left us with much to desire, we enjoyed our meals at the Yoghurt House in town. Aptly named, I believe, since the yoghurt concoctions (try the Banana Yoghurt Pancake) was sublime! Notable establishments include the Masferre (great pancakes as well) and Log Cabin (great ambience). Not to forget, the Yoghurt House makes a great place to meet and greet other travellers!

Well, as mentioned earlier, we're now in Banaue. Despite the dull (aka wet) weather, I'm actually looking forward to a walk around the vicinity. We had a room with excellent views here at People's Lodge. We spent the entire day in our room since our took a similar dip like the weather but I'm feeling much better now. Hopefully Aly is well enough to do a quick one in the afternoon because I'm dying to get my hands on those lovely green rice fields!

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Day 01: VIGAN

Just checked in to Grandpa's Inn right smack in the town's UNESCO-listed Mestizo District (P896/night). Lovely lovely weather. The plane ride here wasn't as tranquil though thanks to the turbulence. Reached Angeles circa 0500h and it was already brilliantly bright. Took a 10-hr bus ride (P437) north to Vigan, where we are right now. For most parts, you'll feel like you're on the NS Highway through Kedah until the road swerves and runs parallel to the coast. Dare I say the rocky coast and turqoise waters are reminiscent of the Irish seaboard. It hasn't rained yet, thankfully, but we hope it does later tonight. We can't wait to eplore the city later as well as the whole of tomorrow. Still reeling from the road punishment but our spirits are still high! Watch this space! MABUHAY!

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Leg 1 Itinerary

Well finally had the entire day to sit down and streamline the itinerary for Leg 1 (Luzon Loop), a timely development considering I'd be booked the whole of this weekend and therefore time is of the essence here. Anyway, here it is and enjoy:

10 Jun 09:
Reach CLARK 0450h
Leave CLARK for VIGAN around 0800h (Bus: P550, 10h)
Reach VIGAN by 2000h (Acc: P350/pax)

11 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy VIGAN (Acc: P350/pax)

12 Jun 09:
Leave VIGAN for BAGUIO around 1000h (Bus: P260, 5h)
Reach BAGUIO by 1600h (Acc: P400/pax)

13 Jun 09:
Leave BAGUIO for SAGADA around 0900h (Bus: P220, 7h)
Reach SAGADA by 1800h (Acc: P250/pax)

14 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy SAGADA (Acc: P250/pax)

15 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy SAGADA (Acc: P250/pax)

16 Jun 09:
Leave SAGADA for BANAUE around 1000h (Jeepney to BONTOC: P30, 1h + Jeepney to BANAUE: P120, 2h)
Reach BANAUE by 1500h (Acc: P350/pax)

17 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy BANAUE (Acc: P350/pax)

18 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy BANAUE (Acc: P350/pax)

19 Jun 09:
Leave BANAUE for MANILA around 1700h (Bus: P462, 9h - overnight journey)

20 Jun 09:
Reach MANILA by 0500h (perhaps plan for half-day rent till 0800h-1600h)
Leave MANILA for TAIPEI around 1900h

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TOTAL TRANSPORT COST: P1642 (~P2000)
TOTAL LODGING COST: P2900 (~3000)
TOTAL ESSENTIAL COST: P4542 (~5000)

AVERAGE MEAL EXPENDITURE: P200 X 10 DAYS = P2000

Traipsing Taipinoy

It's a week before we finally greet 'Mabuhay' to the pinoy archipelago and a brief side-trip to Taiwan. Development on the ground situation have been sketchy (what with the H1N1 virus and the typhoon season) but it hadn't dampened our spirits yet. Not one bit, at least for me.

So far, we grabbed a bargain on airfare:

1. Sg-Manila (SGD55)
2. Manila-Taipei-Manila (SGD80)
3. Manila-Caticlan (SGD33)
4. Cebu-Sg (SGD50)

Also not forgetting the travel insurance coverage under NTUC Income (SGD62).

Well, this I hope is going to get exciting so watch this space!

5 months on...

It was an incredibly short trip, just 13 days to take in the best of both India and Nepal. To be honest, the bulk of the journey was spent on board buses and trains, but the people whom we met in transit made what could potentially be an arduous trip a blessing in disguise. As you can see, this post is long overdue and thus serves the purpose of giving IN-spired a respectable closure it deserves. Also, with the upcoming Traipsing Taipinoy (Philippines-Taiwan 10 June-08 July), this entry may seem like a pressing obligation to put a close to this chapter but I assure you that its content is not written in haste.

What happened on our return journey from Pokhara, Nepal, to Delhi remained as one of the most memorable. Not because it was pristine, rather, it was the lack of that made it all the more unforgettable. To those whom I've met to share the story, this is an abridged version of it. To put it briefly, we were robbed. At the border. In transit, 2 bewildered Singaporeans in a foreign land. Those hostile moments, surrounded by rifle-slinging locals who threatened to throw us off the bus as they extorted every cent of cash we had on us, was a rude yet refreshing awakening to our otherwise stellar backpacking record. We gathered many learning points and thanks to God we made it out of the ordeal safe.

Chennai was another surprise, this time at the other end of the spectrum. We spent a brief moment in this quaint city in what seemed like a good excuse for a beach tourist trap but our journey here was enhanced by the presence of a local architect who, in all his graciousness, invited us for dinner at his home. We jumped at that offer and never regretted a second of it. It was the pinnacle Indian hospitality and the perfect curtain call for our time in the subcontinent.

If there's one thing that came out of this trip, it would be the lure and charm of India and Nepal combined. 13 days were too short to take in anything at all. Truly, I am IN-spired to return.