An account written by Muhammad Aly s/o Musa,
Singaporean heart-throb, handsome-bugger, Mr. 6/8-packs, "bakla" (ABF)-magnet, Merajuk King, Aly & Sons founder, and resident financial controller
* * *
Boracay is a gorgeous beach paradise with white sandy beaches, immaculately clear water, chic bars playing live music at night and most importantly, lovely people both foreign and local who welcome you with wide open arms. It was unfortunate that Matt couldn’t join us for the water sports, but I’m sure he made the most of his time exploring the rest of the island with the mountain bike he rented.
Farahdi and I met 2 guys named Kristoffer and Mario who initially looked like dodgy water-sport touts trying to suck our wallets dry, but they turned out to be genuinely nice guys who provided us with excellent service at insanely low prices! We eventually signed up for 3 activities: the marine walk (P800 each for 30 minutes), parasailing (P1200 each for 25 minutes) and the ATV [All Terrain Vehicle] ride (P600 each for 1.5hrs).
The marine walk involved climbing down a barge into the seabed about 15-20 metres deep. It is meant for people who aren’t certified divers but yet want to have a firsthand experience amongst colourful fishes and corals. We had to wear an astronaut-like helmet on our heads where a constant supply of Oxygen linked by a tube from the barge helped us breathe deep underwater. Ugly as I looked (Matt: Oh stop the ego-bashing already honey, I'm sure all the Ladyboys of Boracay would wail in disagreement here), I enjoyed the experience, especially when the fishes in a myriad of colours started to nibble on the bread held by my fingers. The disappointing thing about this activity was that we were not allowed to venture out of a 10m radius as the oxygen tubes weren’t long enough. I must say that it will be a good experience for first timers (like me), but if you’ve ever been snorkelling or scuba diving before, you might just want to give this activity a miss.
Parasailing was a very calming and soothing activity. It might seem a little daunting from far to be held up high in the sky by a parachute, but when you’re at it you’ll realise that you won’t actually have any of the “adrenaline pumping, rollercoaster-like” experience. Parasailing was a great way to have a helicopter view of the entire island North to South and East to West. We were both hanging under the same parachute and we truly enjoyed it. The strong winds, the breathtaking views of Boracay on one end, the rolling green mountains of Panay island on the other, and the sweeping views of the vast blue ocean all around us and beneath our feet are certainly good enough reason for anyone to want to try the sport.
After dipping and sunbathing in the sea for a good 2 hours and a light Starbucks meal, we headed for our final day activity- ATV ride! The ATV is this cool, funky looking 4-wheeled vehicle which has motorcycle-like brakes and a push lever as the accelerator. It was a little bit difficult to control the vehicle at the start, but after a while one will naturally get the hang of controlling the ATV along sharp and sometimes steep bends. The trail was paved for most parts of the journey, so don’t expect dirt paths and bumpy rides. The guide (who was on an ATV in front of us all the way) brought us to a butterfly park for P60 each. It was a disappointment – there were almost no butterflies, and all we saw were a few bats and an owl caged up in the enclosure. Farahdi freaked out and I posed for a few pictures with the animals to make the most of my P60. Our next stop was a view at the highest peak of Boracay (Mt. Luhud) which cost us P50 each. I couldn’t help but wonder why they would charge us to climb a few steps up to the vantage point; until I saw caged snakes, peacocks, cat bears and chained monkeys at the entrance – a pathetic attempt to convince us that the P50 we paid was well worth it. An unkempt mini-zoo with malnourished animals right smack at the highest peak of Boracay certainly didn’t go down well with me at least, and I’m sure Farahdi wasn’t impressed as well. Despite the disappointments, I must say that the ATV ride on a whole was quite exhilarating and meant more for thrill seekers. Undoubtedly, we enjoyed the ATV ride the most out of the 3 activities that we experienced for the day. My greatest wish is for the guides to allow for some overtaking and friendly racing along the stretches with lighter traffic, which would have added a whole lot more fun to this already exciting experience.
Credit has to be given to our guide Mario, who was always there to carry our bags, slippers, and belongings. He also took pictures of us tirelessly from the boat and even sitting backwards on the ATV! We were very impressed by the sincerity he showed in his service towards us. He made every effort to ensure that our belongings (which were all over the place) were in safe hands. He never once asked for a tip (we absolutely loathe guides who are thick skinned enough to ask for tips and request for more if they feel not enough is given), and always had this very humble disposition. It was this genuineness in him that moved our hearts and naturally, we tipped him generously after that.
Boracay is certainly worth a visit for water sports or beach lovers, but I must warn you that peak season rates could easily be triple of what we paid for. However, do remember that prices are always negotiable, and it doesn’t hurt to bargain with the touts. Aside from the overcrowded population of transvestites on the island, I have no other complaints to make about the island. One could easily spend the day playing numerous water sports or even touring the island on a scooter or bicycle, and spend the night chilling at a bar by the beach, and lastly, retire into the night stargazing under the moonlight.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 3)
We bade farewell to the brilliant shores of Siquijor this morning with sunken hearts. It was a short stint but I'll definitely dream of gracing its soil for years to come. It was the perfect ending to a month-long voyage through the Philippines. For its seclusion and underrated backpacking scene, Siquijor did not disappoint. In fact, it surpassed our expectations by a mile. Of all the nice people we've met in the Philippines, the bulk was in Siquijor. Of all the food we've tasted on these shores, the best were in Siquijor. Of all the rooms we've raided, the one in Siquijor ranked among the top. Of all the Pesos we've splurged, it was most well-spent in Siquijor. I can go on, just so you'll get the point.
It wasn't easy getting to Siquijor. We spent 2 days travelling to be exact, with stopovers in Iloilo City and Dumaguete. But victory was sweet. We took a 2.30pm boat to the island (P160/pax) and was later greeted by a slurry of touts (but none with the ferocity of anywhere else in the Philippines). Rex won our attention and checked out the recommended accommodations at the northern tip of the island. Disappointment loomed - the rooms we wanted were booked or overpriced, and there were no white sandy beaches. Rex insisted that we checked out the ones at San Juan on the opposite end. We relented and Charisma won us over in a split second. The location was pristine and the rooms affordable (P1200/night). Better still, it's just a stone's throw away from JJ's Cafe. This place kicks ass literally. It's run by a charming Australian expatriate, John, and his Filipino partner, Jaisa. Their personalized service is to-die-for. Jaisa whipped up arguably the best-tasting meals on the island if not the Philippines. John, on the other hand, is an overflowing wealth of information. He was our advisor for trip, recommending us what to do (which we did) and how to move on from Siquijor. Most memorable however were his stories. Get this, he has worked with a gazillion international artistes on their photoshoots and he still knows some on a personal basis. His repertoire includes the late MJ, Mariah Carey, Westlife, the late Heath Ledger, U2, the Dalai Lama, Angelina Jolie, the Spice Girls, and Rain. Yes, Rain. We were wowed and awestruck instantaneously. He is a living legend in our eyes.
As John suggested, we snorkelled at the marine sanctuary and had lunch by the waterfall near Lazi before dipping for a refreshing swimming. Getoy was our tricycle driver driver for the day. The day started with a stopover at Dive Safari where Rex (the diver) entertained our whims and fancies. After completing the rental of equipment (P150/pax for flippers, life-jacket and goggles), it was a short walk to the sanctuary (P50/pax entrance fee). Aly and I jumped straight into the water but Farahdi had her reservations (she has a phobia of fishes) so Rex was kind enough to accompany her by the beach as Aly and I explored the wonders of the sea. I must say that although I have seen better reefs in Perhentian, Siquijor's was still pleasurable. Aly was satisfied, at least for now since I'll be bringing him to Perhentian soon. Not wanting to let Farahdi miss out on all the fun, we finally dragged her in for a good hour of exploration. Needless to say she was all squeals and tears but kudos for an attempt to overcome her fears. It was definitely a rewarding experience for all of us.
2 hours later, we were whisked away to the waterfall where we had packed lunch from JJ's. After Bomod-ok, that this didn't even come close (somewhat of a Filipino Kota Tinggi) but the pool was shallow enough for me to paddle in. Aly and I did a pseudo Aaron Kwok near the plunge pool, in what I reckon was the most fulfilling 'hydro-massage' ever. Farahdi stayed high and dry but went trigger-happy instead. We returned to Charisma to wash up and headed straight to JJ's, again, where a sumptuous meal awaits us. This time, Jamma served us and like John and Jaisa, was a bundle of joy.
Like JJ's, the staff at Charisma also wowed us with their commendable efforts to make their guests feel at home. Giselle, the owner, is an unstoppable chatterbox once we thugged at the right strings. Earlier, the 3 of us had discussed in jest on the possibilities of starting up a similar backpackers resort somewhere in the Philippines. Giselle was more than happy to share her experience with us (or rather, it was us who milked all possible information out of her). To our amazement, she was also a newcomer to the scene, having recently bought the resort over.
Unlike Boracay, Siquijor is cheap. It's low-key, which makes it perfect for travellers on a tight budget. It's the sort of place where you get what you pay for with no extra nonsense, and fortunately you don't have to pay much. We didn't. And the best part was, quality is guaranteed every step of the way. I had told John that Siquijor left me with the impression that time stood still. His reply was simple: yes, it does, but you'd be surprised how fast the days come and go. Now, I guess he was right all along. We had 2 days in Siquijor, but it felt as if we only had a few hours there. Siquijor is like the sphinx cat - you either love it or hate it. I loved it. Its wonders unfold in simple packages, from the hospitality of the people to the beauty of nature's gifts. If you're ever privileged to grace Siquijor's shores, come armed with 3 names - John, Jaisa and Giselle. Your stay would definitely be as enjoyable as ours.
It wasn't easy getting to Siquijor. We spent 2 days travelling to be exact, with stopovers in Iloilo City and Dumaguete. But victory was sweet. We took a 2.30pm boat to the island (P160/pax) and was later greeted by a slurry of touts (but none with the ferocity of anywhere else in the Philippines). Rex won our attention and checked out the recommended accommodations at the northern tip of the island. Disappointment loomed - the rooms we wanted were booked or overpriced, and there were no white sandy beaches. Rex insisted that we checked out the ones at San Juan on the opposite end. We relented and Charisma won us over in a split second. The location was pristine and the rooms affordable (P1200/night). Better still, it's just a stone's throw away from JJ's Cafe. This place kicks ass literally. It's run by a charming Australian expatriate, John, and his Filipino partner, Jaisa. Their personalized service is to-die-for. Jaisa whipped up arguably the best-tasting meals on the island if not the Philippines. John, on the other hand, is an overflowing wealth of information. He was our advisor for trip, recommending us what to do (which we did) and how to move on from Siquijor. Most memorable however were his stories. Get this, he has worked with a gazillion international artistes on their photoshoots and he still knows some on a personal basis. His repertoire includes the late MJ, Mariah Carey, Westlife, the late Heath Ledger, U2, the Dalai Lama, Angelina Jolie, the Spice Girls, and Rain. Yes, Rain. We were wowed and awestruck instantaneously. He is a living legend in our eyes.
As John suggested, we snorkelled at the marine sanctuary and had lunch by the waterfall near Lazi before dipping for a refreshing swimming. Getoy was our tricycle driver driver for the day. The day started with a stopover at Dive Safari where Rex (the diver) entertained our whims and fancies. After completing the rental of equipment (P150/pax for flippers, life-jacket and goggles), it was a short walk to the sanctuary (P50/pax entrance fee). Aly and I jumped straight into the water but Farahdi had her reservations (she has a phobia of fishes) so Rex was kind enough to accompany her by the beach as Aly and I explored the wonders of the sea. I must say that although I have seen better reefs in Perhentian, Siquijor's was still pleasurable. Aly was satisfied, at least for now since I'll be bringing him to Perhentian soon. Not wanting to let Farahdi miss out on all the fun, we finally dragged her in for a good hour of exploration. Needless to say she was all squeals and tears but kudos for an attempt to overcome her fears. It was definitely a rewarding experience for all of us.
2 hours later, we were whisked away to the waterfall where we had packed lunch from JJ's. After Bomod-ok, that this didn't even come close (somewhat of a Filipino Kota Tinggi) but the pool was shallow enough for me to paddle in. Aly and I did a pseudo Aaron Kwok near the plunge pool, in what I reckon was the most fulfilling 'hydro-massage' ever. Farahdi stayed high and dry but went trigger-happy instead. We returned to Charisma to wash up and headed straight to JJ's, again, where a sumptuous meal awaits us. This time, Jamma served us and like John and Jaisa, was a bundle of joy.
Like JJ's, the staff at Charisma also wowed us with their commendable efforts to make their guests feel at home. Giselle, the owner, is an unstoppable chatterbox once we thugged at the right strings. Earlier, the 3 of us had discussed in jest on the possibilities of starting up a similar backpackers resort somewhere in the Philippines. Giselle was more than happy to share her experience with us (or rather, it was us who milked all possible information out of her). To our amazement, she was also a newcomer to the scene, having recently bought the resort over.
Unlike Boracay, Siquijor is cheap. It's low-key, which makes it perfect for travellers on a tight budget. It's the sort of place where you get what you pay for with no extra nonsense, and fortunately you don't have to pay much. We didn't. And the best part was, quality is guaranteed every step of the way. I had told John that Siquijor left me with the impression that time stood still. His reply was simple: yes, it does, but you'd be surprised how fast the days come and go. Now, I guess he was right all along. We had 2 days in Siquijor, but it felt as if we only had a few hours there. Siquijor is like the sphinx cat - you either love it or hate it. I loved it. Its wonders unfold in simple packages, from the hospitality of the people to the beauty of nature's gifts. If you're ever privileged to grace Siquijor's shores, come armed with 3 names - John, Jaisa and Giselle. Your stay would definitely be as enjoyable as ours.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 2)
We're sitting at the lobby of Hotel Palwa now, taking in the cool air-con comfort to seethe our (almost) wrecked nerves after missing our 10.30am boat to Siquijor. The next one is at 2.30pm, and it's only 11.15am now. But it's ok I guess, because at least it allows me the time catch up on my final blogging backlog. And at least, it allows me an escape from the descend of this sudden funeral-like atmosphere.
This is the part where the Visayas really comes into the picture. We had spent the immediate 5 days after Taiwan still on Luzon for Kabayan and Taal. Back at NAIA Terminal 3, our island escapade never seemed clearer. Unfortunately, ammendments by Cebu Pacific left us flying to Kalibo instead of Caticlan where a free shuttle bus will take us from there to complete what we had initially paid for. As if that wasn't bad enough, the flight was scheduled for a good 2 hours later and by the time we checked in at Boracay, it was already 9pm. Thanks to Ms Melody, a personnel of the tourism board who was deployed to assist us stranded passengers, we got a good deal at Tan's Guesthouse (P1800/night) at Station 2 on White Beach.
Boracay is an island paradise meant for party-animals. We fell in love with the immaculate beachfront promenade almost instantly, what with the warm glow of crimson lights, thud-thumping music emanating from the various bars as well as the powder-fine sand that melted beneath our feet. But for me, it was a sort of enigma. It's the sort of place where you'll enjoy with friends or companions, but yet I experienced a sort of abandonement amidst the crowd, a sense of forlorn amidst excitement. Aly and Farahdi had the luxury of trying the parasail, marine walk as well as the ATV drive the next day. I shall request that Aly furnish a write-up for this because I could never capture an accurate account of their experience.
Like I mentioned, I was cash-strapped and the only thing to do was to rent a mountain bike (P300/day) to tour the island. Not that I hate cycling (I love it to bits in fact), but I believe I could have enjoyed it better with people around. I made my rounds to the northern and eastern reaches of the island. Puka Beach was sublime, with its postcard-perfect sands and rocky cliffs to one side. Diniwid had a village charm while Bulabog had the low-key fishing town atmosphere. They all had something different to offer and on hind-sight, I enjoyed the chance to do all that on my own, taking in whatever I could whiff unobstructed by any other person's concerns. For the first time, it felt good to be ignored. That's a mean feat considering I'm such a social creature.
We met up around 6pm to catch the sunset at White Beach before dinner. Although arguably one of the best I've seen so far, the throngs of holiday-makers that crowded he water's edge sort of spoiled the atmosphere. Aly and Farahdi had their usual Indian fare while I opted for an all-you-can-eat buffet at Bug's Grill (P250/pax). We then pilgrimaged to Summer Place where I was bought over by the live acoustic performance. Farahdi charmed the bartender and got us some virgin mixes. And to put icing on the cake, I was sabotaged to perform a song with the band.It was nerve-wrecking; I don't think I've recovered from the shock yet.I sang Mraz's I'm Yours and that got us anew friend. Flabia, a Brazillian exchange master student from Japan,joined us for t rest of the night. We stargazed on the sands before retiring to our rooms at 2am.
We checked out of our rooms at 11am the next morning and headed straight to Starbucks where Flabia joined us for breakfast. She's a ball of fun really. It was a pity that we had such a short time together. By noon, we left for yet another underrated island paradise. 2 days on, we're still on our way there. I can't wait for the nipa cottages and endless beaches. It's an island of mystery, they say. I'm thrilled to see what magic it'll work on us.
This is the part where the Visayas really comes into the picture. We had spent the immediate 5 days after Taiwan still on Luzon for Kabayan and Taal. Back at NAIA Terminal 3, our island escapade never seemed clearer. Unfortunately, ammendments by Cebu Pacific left us flying to Kalibo instead of Caticlan where a free shuttle bus will take us from there to complete what we had initially paid for. As if that wasn't bad enough, the flight was scheduled for a good 2 hours later and by the time we checked in at Boracay, it was already 9pm. Thanks to Ms Melody, a personnel of the tourism board who was deployed to assist us stranded passengers, we got a good deal at Tan's Guesthouse (P1800/night) at Station 2 on White Beach.
Boracay is an island paradise meant for party-animals. We fell in love with the immaculate beachfront promenade almost instantly, what with the warm glow of crimson lights, thud-thumping music emanating from the various bars as well as the powder-fine sand that melted beneath our feet. But for me, it was a sort of enigma. It's the sort of place where you'll enjoy with friends or companions, but yet I experienced a sort of abandonement amidst the crowd, a sense of forlorn amidst excitement. Aly and Farahdi had the luxury of trying the parasail, marine walk as well as the ATV drive the next day. I shall request that Aly furnish a write-up for this because I could never capture an accurate account of their experience.
Like I mentioned, I was cash-strapped and the only thing to do was to rent a mountain bike (P300/day) to tour the island. Not that I hate cycling (I love it to bits in fact), but I believe I could have enjoyed it better with people around. I made my rounds to the northern and eastern reaches of the island. Puka Beach was sublime, with its postcard-perfect sands and rocky cliffs to one side. Diniwid had a village charm while Bulabog had the low-key fishing town atmosphere. They all had something different to offer and on hind-sight, I enjoyed the chance to do all that on my own, taking in whatever I could whiff unobstructed by any other person's concerns. For the first time, it felt good to be ignored. That's a mean feat considering I'm such a social creature.
We met up around 6pm to catch the sunset at White Beach before dinner. Although arguably one of the best I've seen so far, the throngs of holiday-makers that crowded he water's edge sort of spoiled the atmosphere. Aly and Farahdi had their usual Indian fare while I opted for an all-you-can-eat buffet at Bug's Grill (P250/pax). We then pilgrimaged to Summer Place where I was bought over by the live acoustic performance. Farahdi charmed the bartender and got us some virgin mixes. And to put icing on the cake, I was sabotaged to perform a song with the band.It was nerve-wrecking; I don't think I've recovered from the shock yet.I sang Mraz's I'm Yours and that got us anew friend. Flabia, a Brazillian exchange master student from Japan,joined us for t rest of the night. We stargazed on the sands before retiring to our rooms at 2am.
We checked out of our rooms at 11am the next morning and headed straight to Starbucks where Flabia joined us for breakfast. She's a ball of fun really. It was a pity that we had such a short time together. By noon, we left for yet another underrated island paradise. 2 days on, we're still on our way there. I can't wait for the nipa cottages and endless beaches. It's an island of mystery, they say. I'm thrilled to see what magic it'll work on us.
Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 1)
The flight back from Taipei was serene; the weather was brilliant, a complete turnaround from the turbulent flight to Taiwan. And looking back on the emerald isle with the towering cumulus over the central range makes the perfect fairytale ending to a terrific trip.
Farahdi joined us, finally, at NAIA Terminal 3 after what seemed to be an eternity – our plane got slightly delayed in Taipei and she had arrived 2 hours before that. I’m sure Aly was also anticipating that moment because he had had a ‘tough’ time living alone with me for 2 weeks. The 3 of us hailed a cab a headed own straight to Pasay to catch a bus to Baguio (P445/pax). By 6pm, we were on our way to the cordilleras, the second time for Aly and I. We reached in the dead of the night, at 2am to be exact, and we had no choice but to camp at the 24-hr Dunkin Donut outlet at Session Road. It was painful; we waited for the bus to Kabayan which were told would start operating at 5am but the first bus never came until 10am. Thankfully, we paid a visit to the Muslim stall like before (2 weeks earlier to be exact) and the ‘home-cooked’ halal food somewhat lifted our spirits for the day. The ride to Kabayan (P223/pax) took us another 6 hours and after what seemed like an endless road, we arrived at the safety of Coop Lodge in the heart of Kabayan Town (P200/pax per night). Nothing fancy there, just basic accommodation amenities which did not go down too well with some of us, but that was to be expected.
The next day at Kabayan was what we had been waiting for. We hired a guide, Mr Timmy (P800) to take us to Pongosan Caves near sitio Bongao where 5 mummies resided. It was estimated that they had been there for centuries and they surely did not make it easy for us to pay a visit. The 7km walk was the easy part; what was not so easy was the last 45min climb to the cave entrance. The trail was steep and poorly-maintained with overgrown grass and toppled branches which made for an agonizing ascend. But it was worth it. Timmy was kind enough open the coffins to allow us an up-close-and-personal experience with the remains of the deceased. We scrambled back down to Bongao and then returned to Kabayan to call it a day. Rewarding as it was, we were exhausted after battering the terrain – our sandals (except Aly’s Tevas) took the toll and we had scars of grass-lashes to prove of the ordeal. We took the 5.30am bus out the next morning, but not before an ‘eventful’ night where we nearly burnt down the entire lodge – we disposed of smouldering cigarette butts in the wastepaper bucket by mistake.
Back in Manila, we checked into Malate Pensionne in the backpacker’s district. It was Lonely Planet’s pick but we had to complain that it was a complete sauna and the beds were infested with bugs. I slept on the floor the second night. Anyway, what was to be the highlight was Taal Volcano. We took the bus (P123/pax) from Baclaran for a 2-hr ride to Tagaytay. The view from the ridge was breathtaking, owing to brilliant light of the summer sun. We took a package (P1500) for a transport to and from Talisay (the lakeside town) and the return bangka trip to the island itself. I was more than peeved to learn that the locals had abused municipal recommendations to enforce a mandatory guide on all visitors (P500 for a guide was no joke). Get this, the trail was well-worn and leisurely that the chances of anyone getting a cardiac arrest on the way up and down the crater is far from remote, what more getting lost. Aly and Farahdi hired horses for the experience but cash-straped, I had to decline. I did the climb in 30 minutes, faster than the horses, with my own guide panting behind me. For all the differences in opinions that day, all of us agreed that the view from the top, though beautiful, was a bit of a let down. I had expected a boiling lake of sulphur and smoke billowing from the still-active vents, the ones you’d imagine in Arnold’s Total Recall. What greeted us was unsettling serenity instead. Then again, we dare not ask for too much. As I reached the starting point of the climb, I glanced at all the tired horses whose lives were banished to overwork. The gatekeeper joked that they will only retire when they die. Uncalled for, I think. All in all, Taal is beautiful (Aly would disagree because the rice terraces were more sublime), and I’m proud to boast that I actually ascended and descended a live volcano. But on a personal note, unless you have a voracious appetite for equestrian meat, walk the talk.
Farahdi joined us, finally, at NAIA Terminal 3 after what seemed to be an eternity – our plane got slightly delayed in Taipei and she had arrived 2 hours before that. I’m sure Aly was also anticipating that moment because he had had a ‘tough’ time living alone with me for 2 weeks. The 3 of us hailed a cab a headed own straight to Pasay to catch a bus to Baguio (P445/pax). By 6pm, we were on our way to the cordilleras, the second time for Aly and I. We reached in the dead of the night, at 2am to be exact, and we had no choice but to camp at the 24-hr Dunkin Donut outlet at Session Road. It was painful; we waited for the bus to Kabayan which were told would start operating at 5am but the first bus never came until 10am. Thankfully, we paid a visit to the Muslim stall like before (2 weeks earlier to be exact) and the ‘home-cooked’ halal food somewhat lifted our spirits for the day. The ride to Kabayan (P223/pax) took us another 6 hours and after what seemed like an endless road, we arrived at the safety of Coop Lodge in the heart of Kabayan Town (P200/pax per night). Nothing fancy there, just basic accommodation amenities which did not go down too well with some of us, but that was to be expected.
The next day at Kabayan was what we had been waiting for. We hired a guide, Mr Timmy (P800) to take us to Pongosan Caves near sitio Bongao where 5 mummies resided. It was estimated that they had been there for centuries and they surely did not make it easy for us to pay a visit. The 7km walk was the easy part; what was not so easy was the last 45min climb to the cave entrance. The trail was steep and poorly-maintained with overgrown grass and toppled branches which made for an agonizing ascend. But it was worth it. Timmy was kind enough open the coffins to allow us an up-close-and-personal experience with the remains of the deceased. We scrambled back down to Bongao and then returned to Kabayan to call it a day. Rewarding as it was, we were exhausted after battering the terrain – our sandals (except Aly’s Tevas) took the toll and we had scars of grass-lashes to prove of the ordeal. We took the 5.30am bus out the next morning, but not before an ‘eventful’ night where we nearly burnt down the entire lodge – we disposed of smouldering cigarette butts in the wastepaper bucket by mistake.
Back in Manila, we checked into Malate Pensionne in the backpacker’s district. It was Lonely Planet’s pick but we had to complain that it was a complete sauna and the beds were infested with bugs. I slept on the floor the second night. Anyway, what was to be the highlight was Taal Volcano. We took the bus (P123/pax) from Baclaran for a 2-hr ride to Tagaytay. The view from the ridge was breathtaking, owing to brilliant light of the summer sun. We took a package (P1500) for a transport to and from Talisay (the lakeside town) and the return bangka trip to the island itself. I was more than peeved to learn that the locals had abused municipal recommendations to enforce a mandatory guide on all visitors (P500 for a guide was no joke). Get this, the trail was well-worn and leisurely that the chances of anyone getting a cardiac arrest on the way up and down the crater is far from remote, what more getting lost. Aly and Farahdi hired horses for the experience but cash-straped, I had to decline. I did the climb in 30 minutes, faster than the horses, with my own guide panting behind me. For all the differences in opinions that day, all of us agreed that the view from the top, though beautiful, was a bit of a let down. I had expected a boiling lake of sulphur and smoke billowing from the still-active vents, the ones you’d imagine in Arnold’s Total Recall. What greeted us was unsettling serenity instead. Then again, we dare not ask for too much. As I reached the starting point of the climb, I glanced at all the tired horses whose lives were banished to overwork. The gatekeeper joked that they will only retire when they die. Uncalled for, I think. All in all, Taal is beautiful (Aly would disagree because the rice terraces were more sublime), and I’m proud to boast that I actually ascended and descended a live volcano. But on a personal note, unless you have a voracious appetite for equestrian meat, walk the talk.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Taiwan Trail
It was a brief respite, a visual break of sorts from the emerald monotony of the Philippines’ cordilleras – don’t get me wrong, the mountains were gorgeous and we loved it to bits but a week of it can get mundane. Anyway, I told Katie that ‘sublime’ doesn’t even begin to do Taiwan justice. Remember Katie? Well, she’s the brave British lady we met in Sagada and then later Banaue. Yes, I told her just that. And I meant it to the T. What’s there not to love? We thought we’d have enough of mountains but Taiwan had all that and more. I mentioned that we adored Taipei the moment we landed, and to our surprise, we would sustain that sentiment right to the very end. It’s a lot to squeeze here in this entry but I’ll try to make it as succinct and enjoyable as possible.
We checked in at Taipei Hostel (NT750/night) off Linsen N Road. It’s an institution in itself (quotes Lonely Planet). All manner of nationalities graced its dorms and you really get a global feel in its lounge. It served as our base to explore the city. Taipei was everything that Manila wasn’t – it’s clean, modern, organized, and reminiscent of home. We reserved the second day in Taiwan for Ximending and Shilin night market. Ximending is Taipei’s answer to Orchard Road – hip, young, funky, and a lot of good-looking people. We ate at a local eatery for brunch and ordered oyster omelette, carrot cake and fishball noodle. I loved it but unfortunately Aly didn’t, I guess it was the blend and oily texture of the food. It was impossible to track down all of Ximending’s streets (mind you, 8 major intersections and a maze of narrow lanes within the designated vicinity wasn’t a joke) so by night fall, we headed down to Shilin for its infamous night market. It was mayhem, literally, with throngs of people of all ages and nationalities congregating in a space that resembles Geylang. I wanted to try the smelly tofu but the slightest whiff of it got my intestines churning. I backed away, far from the warzone and into the safe confines of a KFC outlet overlooking Shilin’s main drag for dinner. Still, the multitude of happenings on the streets was too much to handle in just a single visit. I vowed to return, but maybe sometime later. All in all, Taipei was fun but we felt that we have experienced it all in a day. Perhaps, it was just too similar to Singapore.
Hualien on the East Coast is a cookie-cutter town mimicking the urban amenities of Taipei albeit on a rural scale. It’s a city of 109000 people so you’ll get the big-town-small-feel effect that’s palatable to any urban dwellers who yearn to escape from the city beat. It was a breeze getting out of town; we purchased a ticket from the Taipei Railway Station (NT445/pax) straight to Hualien and 5 minutes later we were whisked on board. The ride itself was smooth and promised spectacular views of the rugged coastline of Taiwan’s Pacific shore, which it delivered promptly after turning southbound somewhere after Fulong. Sleep, if you must (which we did anyway since the seats were very comfortable) but be sure to wake up in time for Hualien Station just 2 hours later.
Don’t be fooled but what you first see and hear when you exit the gates at Hualien – the city did look like quite a drab especially in the searing summer heat and the omnipresent touts incessantly vied for the attention of anyone remotely foreign-looking – for once we passed all that, it made a good base to explore what the East Coast is all about. The 3 days spent there saw us exploring Taiwan’s much-publicised Taroko Gorge and the maddeningly beautiful rugged coastline. We made Chian Tai Hotel (NT700, double with attached bathroom) located at the junction just outside the train and bus stations as our home for the next few days.
Most people would have convinced that you would need a guide to Taroko and they will go the extra mile (mark my words) to have you know that the best way to view the limestone formations is by hiring a taxi and whizzing through it for half a day. Reality check: the gorge is bisected by a national highway which runs its entire length and there are permanent settlements within the park so public transport is not a problem. This was exactly why we did the tour/trek ourselves; to allow ourselves ample time to take in the views without the fuss of someone haggling over you. We took a mid-morning bus to Tienhsiang (NT191/pax) which we did in 2 parts to allow time for a brief tour of the park entrance and by 1pm, we embarked on our first trek to the Cave of The Water Curtain. The walk itself was nothing spectacular save for the towering limestone surfaces that dwarfed us but true to its name (like straight out of a Chinese period serial) the cave offered a brief walk through an underground stream which led to an internal waterfall best thought of as water streaming down a series of cracks from its ceiling. It would not do Indiana Jones proud but the brief cave walk was pure fun – we showered in its cool torrent and traced the ankle-deep stream on our way out. Desperate to make time for our second trek up to Huoran Pavillion, we headed back to Tienhsiang and traced the trailhead up the slopes. It was no walk in the park; do not even dream of attempting this if you’re short on time and energy. We certainly did not have the luxury of an entire day and I for sure had yet to recover from the punishing hikes in Luzon. Guidebooks would have you believe that making 400m along a 1.9km trail is not so hard. Only true if you’re doing geometry – Points A and B were not connected by a straight line. The trail was steep, slippery and vegetated, something we’re used to but not after a series of prior trekking. We only made it as far as the 1.1km mark where there is a viewing platform where you can glance at the valley below as well as the pavilion that seemed to be an eternity away. After some heavy panting and a good 4 sticks of cigarette each, we retraced our steps and took a cab (NT200) back to Hualien, with a stop at the Swallow Grotto, arguably the most scenic and majestic stretch of the gorge, with the highway weaving in and out of the limestone on one side and 300m sheer surfaces on the other.
Having soaked in enough of Taiwan’s famed mountainous interior, we embarked on a road trip south of Hualien along coastal Highway 11. It was simply breathtaking. NT90/pax got us to Cow Mountain Beach where we trekked down a 1km dirt path down from the highway turnoff to the beach. Every bit as dramatic Taroko, we witnessed the Pacific greets emerald cliffs. The beach is hemmed in between these 2 giants. It was off-limits to swim but was the perfect spot to get a nice tan. Those not keen on that would have a tough time locating any decent shady spots but whatever it is, the stunning views would blow you away, literally. On our way up, we ran into ‘Mr. San’ and his wife, ‘Mdm. Shi Xian’, who very generously offered us a ride to Shihtiping (some 30km further south). It was this kind gesture that sealed the perfect impression of the Taiwanese for us – warm and inviting people who make particularly gracious hosts to any foreigners. Shihtiping boasts the dramatic limestone coast where one would be easily impressed by the ravenous power of the ocean. Centuries of erosion carved blowholes, cuestas and cliffs that would be the domain of any deserving geologist. Such was the moonscape of Shihtiping – the hostile face-off between land and sea unfolding before your very eyes. We could not resist exploring rugged coastline and soon engaged ourselves in a good hour of trekking the coast, which involved climbing, skipping and clawing on the part-barnacle-infested part-aeolian-erosion surfaces of boulders and rocks. To cap it off, we sat at the base of a cuesta, by a blowhole, and took in the ironic beauty of it all, with a video as proof. By 5.30pm, we board the bus back to Hualien (NT183).
We returned to Taipei the next afternoon, only to learn that a moderate 5.3 magnitude tremor rocked the coast off Hualien that same morning. Amazingly enough, we slept through it like a baby still lulled by the magnificent wonders of the East Coast. Our remaining hours in Taiwan were spent roaming the streets of the city to view Taipei 101where w had good food at its fabulous food court, especially so for Aly who finally had some Indian fills. We then headed to Core Pacific City or better-known as giant golf ball cum Jupiter cum sotong ball or any either round ornaments you can think of. We returned to our hostel early but lulled the hours again on the roof garden smoking and occasionally visiting the lounge to take advantage of the free wi-fi.
Taiwan is really a land of contrasts; modernity constantly married with traditions, nature alongside the man-made, the rural versus the urbane. It makes for succinct East Asian odyssey if time and money aren’t on your side. We had a week in Taiwan and it was 7 days well-spent; we ingested the best of what Ilha Farmosa had to offer and quite honestly, we’d both be more than willing to return should the opportunity present itself in future. But for now, it remains as one of the most fulfilling journey we’ve had thus far.
We checked in at Taipei Hostel (NT750/night) off Linsen N Road. It’s an institution in itself (quotes Lonely Planet). All manner of nationalities graced its dorms and you really get a global feel in its lounge. It served as our base to explore the city. Taipei was everything that Manila wasn’t – it’s clean, modern, organized, and reminiscent of home. We reserved the second day in Taiwan for Ximending and Shilin night market. Ximending is Taipei’s answer to Orchard Road – hip, young, funky, and a lot of good-looking people. We ate at a local eatery for brunch and ordered oyster omelette, carrot cake and fishball noodle. I loved it but unfortunately Aly didn’t, I guess it was the blend and oily texture of the food. It was impossible to track down all of Ximending’s streets (mind you, 8 major intersections and a maze of narrow lanes within the designated vicinity wasn’t a joke) so by night fall, we headed down to Shilin for its infamous night market. It was mayhem, literally, with throngs of people of all ages and nationalities congregating in a space that resembles Geylang. I wanted to try the smelly tofu but the slightest whiff of it got my intestines churning. I backed away, far from the warzone and into the safe confines of a KFC outlet overlooking Shilin’s main drag for dinner. Still, the multitude of happenings on the streets was too much to handle in just a single visit. I vowed to return, but maybe sometime later. All in all, Taipei was fun but we felt that we have experienced it all in a day. Perhaps, it was just too similar to Singapore.
Hualien on the East Coast is a cookie-cutter town mimicking the urban amenities of Taipei albeit on a rural scale. It’s a city of 109000 people so you’ll get the big-town-small-feel effect that’s palatable to any urban dwellers who yearn to escape from the city beat. It was a breeze getting out of town; we purchased a ticket from the Taipei Railway Station (NT445/pax) straight to Hualien and 5 minutes later we were whisked on board. The ride itself was smooth and promised spectacular views of the rugged coastline of Taiwan’s Pacific shore, which it delivered promptly after turning southbound somewhere after Fulong. Sleep, if you must (which we did anyway since the seats were very comfortable) but be sure to wake up in time for Hualien Station just 2 hours later.
Don’t be fooled but what you first see and hear when you exit the gates at Hualien – the city did look like quite a drab especially in the searing summer heat and the omnipresent touts incessantly vied for the attention of anyone remotely foreign-looking – for once we passed all that, it made a good base to explore what the East Coast is all about. The 3 days spent there saw us exploring Taiwan’s much-publicised Taroko Gorge and the maddeningly beautiful rugged coastline. We made Chian Tai Hotel (NT700, double with attached bathroom) located at the junction just outside the train and bus stations as our home for the next few days.
Most people would have convinced that you would need a guide to Taroko and they will go the extra mile (mark my words) to have you know that the best way to view the limestone formations is by hiring a taxi and whizzing through it for half a day. Reality check: the gorge is bisected by a national highway which runs its entire length and there are permanent settlements within the park so public transport is not a problem. This was exactly why we did the tour/trek ourselves; to allow ourselves ample time to take in the views without the fuss of someone haggling over you. We took a mid-morning bus to Tienhsiang (NT191/pax) which we did in 2 parts to allow time for a brief tour of the park entrance and by 1pm, we embarked on our first trek to the Cave of The Water Curtain. The walk itself was nothing spectacular save for the towering limestone surfaces that dwarfed us but true to its name (like straight out of a Chinese period serial) the cave offered a brief walk through an underground stream which led to an internal waterfall best thought of as water streaming down a series of cracks from its ceiling. It would not do Indiana Jones proud but the brief cave walk was pure fun – we showered in its cool torrent and traced the ankle-deep stream on our way out. Desperate to make time for our second trek up to Huoran Pavillion, we headed back to Tienhsiang and traced the trailhead up the slopes. It was no walk in the park; do not even dream of attempting this if you’re short on time and energy. We certainly did not have the luxury of an entire day and I for sure had yet to recover from the punishing hikes in Luzon. Guidebooks would have you believe that making 400m along a 1.9km trail is not so hard. Only true if you’re doing geometry – Points A and B were not connected by a straight line. The trail was steep, slippery and vegetated, something we’re used to but not after a series of prior trekking. We only made it as far as the 1.1km mark where there is a viewing platform where you can glance at the valley below as well as the pavilion that seemed to be an eternity away. After some heavy panting and a good 4 sticks of cigarette each, we retraced our steps and took a cab (NT200) back to Hualien, with a stop at the Swallow Grotto, arguably the most scenic and majestic stretch of the gorge, with the highway weaving in and out of the limestone on one side and 300m sheer surfaces on the other.
Having soaked in enough of Taiwan’s famed mountainous interior, we embarked on a road trip south of Hualien along coastal Highway 11. It was simply breathtaking. NT90/pax got us to Cow Mountain Beach where we trekked down a 1km dirt path down from the highway turnoff to the beach. Every bit as dramatic Taroko, we witnessed the Pacific greets emerald cliffs. The beach is hemmed in between these 2 giants. It was off-limits to swim but was the perfect spot to get a nice tan. Those not keen on that would have a tough time locating any decent shady spots but whatever it is, the stunning views would blow you away, literally. On our way up, we ran into ‘Mr. San’ and his wife, ‘Mdm. Shi Xian’, who very generously offered us a ride to Shihtiping (some 30km further south). It was this kind gesture that sealed the perfect impression of the Taiwanese for us – warm and inviting people who make particularly gracious hosts to any foreigners. Shihtiping boasts the dramatic limestone coast where one would be easily impressed by the ravenous power of the ocean. Centuries of erosion carved blowholes, cuestas and cliffs that would be the domain of any deserving geologist. Such was the moonscape of Shihtiping – the hostile face-off between land and sea unfolding before your very eyes. We could not resist exploring rugged coastline and soon engaged ourselves in a good hour of trekking the coast, which involved climbing, skipping and clawing on the part-barnacle-infested part-aeolian-erosion surfaces of boulders and rocks. To cap it off, we sat at the base of a cuesta, by a blowhole, and took in the ironic beauty of it all, with a video as proof. By 5.30pm, we board the bus back to Hualien (NT183).
We returned to Taipei the next afternoon, only to learn that a moderate 5.3 magnitude tremor rocked the coast off Hualien that same morning. Amazingly enough, we slept through it like a baby still lulled by the magnificent wonders of the East Coast. Our remaining hours in Taiwan were spent roaming the streets of the city to view Taipei 101where w had good food at its fabulous food court, especially so for Aly who finally had some Indian fills. We then headed to Core Pacific City or better-known as giant golf ball cum Jupiter cum sotong ball or any either round ornaments you can think of. We returned to our hostel early but lulled the hours again on the roof garden smoking and occasionally visiting the lounge to take advantage of the free wi-fi.
Taiwan is really a land of contrasts; modernity constantly married with traditions, nature alongside the man-made, the rural versus the urbane. It makes for succinct East Asian odyssey if time and money aren’t on your side. We had a week in Taiwan and it was 7 days well-spent; we ingested the best of what Ilha Farmosa had to offer and quite honestly, we’d both be more than willing to return should the opportunity present itself in future. But for now, it remains as one of the most fulfilling journey we’ve had thus far.
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