We bade farewell to the brilliant shores of Siquijor this morning with sunken hearts. It was a short stint but I'll definitely dream of gracing its soil for years to come. It was the perfect ending to a month-long voyage through the Philippines. For its seclusion and underrated backpacking scene, Siquijor did not disappoint. In fact, it surpassed our expectations by a mile. Of all the nice people we've met in the Philippines, the bulk was in Siquijor. Of all the food we've tasted on these shores, the best were in Siquijor. Of all the rooms we've raided, the one in Siquijor ranked among the top. Of all the Pesos we've splurged, it was most well-spent in Siquijor. I can go on, just so you'll get the point.
It wasn't easy getting to Siquijor. We spent 2 days travelling to be exact, with stopovers in Iloilo City and Dumaguete. But victory was sweet. We took a 2.30pm boat to the island (P160/pax) and was later greeted by a slurry of touts (but none with the ferocity of anywhere else in the Philippines). Rex won our attention and checked out the recommended accommodations at the northern tip of the island. Disappointment loomed - the rooms we wanted were booked or overpriced, and there were no white sandy beaches. Rex insisted that we checked out the ones at San Juan on the opposite end. We relented and Charisma won us over in a split second. The location was pristine and the rooms affordable (P1200/night). Better still, it's just a stone's throw away from JJ's Cafe. This place kicks ass literally. It's run by a charming Australian expatriate, John, and his Filipino partner, Jaisa. Their personalized service is to-die-for. Jaisa whipped up arguably the best-tasting meals on the island if not the Philippines. John, on the other hand, is an overflowing wealth of information. He was our advisor for trip, recommending us what to do (which we did) and how to move on from Siquijor. Most memorable however were his stories. Get this, he has worked with a gazillion international artistes on their photoshoots and he still knows some on a personal basis. His repertoire includes the late MJ, Mariah Carey, Westlife, the late Heath Ledger, U2, the Dalai Lama, Angelina Jolie, the Spice Girls, and Rain. Yes, Rain. We were wowed and awestruck instantaneously. He is a living legend in our eyes.
As John suggested, we snorkelled at the marine sanctuary and had lunch by the waterfall near Lazi before dipping for a refreshing swimming. Getoy was our tricycle driver driver for the day. The day started with a stopover at Dive Safari where Rex (the diver) entertained our whims and fancies. After completing the rental of equipment (P150/pax for flippers, life-jacket and goggles), it was a short walk to the sanctuary (P50/pax entrance fee). Aly and I jumped straight into the water but Farahdi had her reservations (she has a phobia of fishes) so Rex was kind enough to accompany her by the beach as Aly and I explored the wonders of the sea. I must say that although I have seen better reefs in Perhentian, Siquijor's was still pleasurable. Aly was satisfied, at least for now since I'll be bringing him to Perhentian soon. Not wanting to let Farahdi miss out on all the fun, we finally dragged her in for a good hour of exploration. Needless to say she was all squeals and tears but kudos for an attempt to overcome her fears. It was definitely a rewarding experience for all of us.
2 hours later, we were whisked away to the waterfall where we had packed lunch from JJ's. After Bomod-ok, that this didn't even come close (somewhat of a Filipino Kota Tinggi) but the pool was shallow enough for me to paddle in. Aly and I did a pseudo Aaron Kwok near the plunge pool, in what I reckon was the most fulfilling 'hydro-massage' ever. Farahdi stayed high and dry but went trigger-happy instead. We returned to Charisma to wash up and headed straight to JJ's, again, where a sumptuous meal awaits us. This time, Jamma served us and like John and Jaisa, was a bundle of joy.
Like JJ's, the staff at Charisma also wowed us with their commendable efforts to make their guests feel at home. Giselle, the owner, is an unstoppable chatterbox once we thugged at the right strings. Earlier, the 3 of us had discussed in jest on the possibilities of starting up a similar backpackers resort somewhere in the Philippines. Giselle was more than happy to share her experience with us (or rather, it was us who milked all possible information out of her). To our amazement, she was also a newcomer to the scene, having recently bought the resort over.
Unlike Boracay, Siquijor is cheap. It's low-key, which makes it perfect for travellers on a tight budget. It's the sort of place where you get what you pay for with no extra nonsense, and fortunately you don't have to pay much. We didn't. And the best part was, quality is guaranteed every step of the way. I had told John that Siquijor left me with the impression that time stood still. His reply was simple: yes, it does, but you'd be surprised how fast the days come and go. Now, I guess he was right all along. We had 2 days in Siquijor, but it felt as if we only had a few hours there. Siquijor is like the sphinx cat - you either love it or hate it. I loved it. Its wonders unfold in simple packages, from the hospitality of the people to the beauty of nature's gifts. If you're ever privileged to grace Siquijor's shores, come armed with 3 names - John, Jaisa and Giselle. Your stay would definitely be as enjoyable as ours.
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