Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Turkiye Part Uno

Ok, so you've heard what I had to say about Istanbul. To summarise that in one word - simply 'amazing'! Bear this in mind... because it comes in handy for the rest of our stay in Turkey!

So we left Istanbul for central Anatolia, the fabled land called Cappadocia (Kapadokya). As enchanting as the name sounds, the landscape was truly amazing. That 10-hour ride from Istanbul's otogar right to the heart of Goreme in Flintstone territory was well worth it! Fancy running into Wilma dusting her sabre-tooth rug or Betty running errands of a few Pterodactyl eggs for dinner? This is the place to be. If you wish, you can even choose to spend a few nights in a cave without going outdoors! Well, many of Goreme's (pronounced Go-ray-may, we got weird stares for pronouncing it as Go-rim) hostels have a few basement rooms carved into rocks that characterise much of Central Anatolia's stunning moonscape. We chose Emre instead, a convenient yet super affordable home-away-from-home just a stone's throw away from the otogar (TL20/pax for a double with attached bathroom). This place is pretty peaceful, and a favourite among Koreans and Japanese!

So, besides blinding you with sheer beauty, what else does Cappadocia has to offer? More sublime beauty upclose of course! Don't miss out on any opportunity to trek through wild flowers at the Zemi, Red or Rose valleys around Goreme (at least in spring). I ain't kidding when I said moonscape - the rock formations are so surreal you feel like you're warped into a different celestial dimension altogether! Plus, even if you're not the rough-and-tumble sort, there is enough scenic spots atop weathered plumes to make for a romantic picnic as you survey your enchanting surroundings. Anyway, take it from us, if you decide to trek, we recommend renting a bike. They don't cost much (TL10/4hrs negotiable) but they save you tonnes of precious minutes shuttling between rudimentarily-signposted valleys. Food selection, however, doesn't deviate much from the normal fare you get in Istanbul, only slightly cheaper. And that's not saying alot considering Cappadocia is miles away (in terms of distance and development) from Istanbul - already, this pristine abode of gnomes bears the imprint of tourism's voracious capitalistic appetite. Having said this, try the ubiquitous oven-baked stew (TL17) that requires some Bob-the-Builder skill before tucking in!

Onward journey from here took us on a 12-hour ride to Antakya (Antioch) on Suha bus (TL60/pax) where we crossed the border to Aleppo (2hrs) but this part shall be covered in the Syrian edition!

Fast-forward 3 weeks and we found ourselves touching down at Ataturk Havalimani again from Cairo via EgyptAir (SGD321/pax incl taxes, 4hrs). The Istanbul that I fell in love with 3 weeks prior our return remained as lovely as ever but sadly, the same can't be said about the weather. It poured when we touched down. Fortunately, we had to travel straight to Bodrum that night to make sense of whatever little time we had left in Turkey, and the trip for that matter. So, it was straight to the otogar for us and then a harrowing 14-hour ride (TL55) to Turkey's unsung hero on the Aegean.

I must have been pretty groggy when we arrived at Bodrum because I swear I thought we were in Greece! With it's neatly arranged white cuboid abodes stacked into hillsides overlooking a tranquil marina and a crusader's castle on a lonely promontory, Bodrum can easily be mistaken for Greece. and rightfully so - the Greek island of Kos is just 1hr away by ferry! Anyway, Bodrum is the typical resort town where travellers drop by just to lull the hours away on the beach. Being 'wasteful' with time here is completely forgiveable. It was Aly's bright idea to check into Villa Kaseria (EU12/pax for double with attached bathroom) in Gumbet, just 2km west of Bodrum, and what a bright idea it was! Technically, it's a village off Bodrum but due to rapid development, it has since been consumed as Bodrum's western suburb. Away from the centre of action, Gumbet offers a peace of mind that was much needed to massage away frayed nerves. While you won't mind the lack of activities Bodrum has to offer (apart from suntanning, swimming, massaging, suntanning, swimming, massaging etc etc etc...), we were disappointed with the exorbitant prices of basic meals that also included pork on the menu - that, together with alcohol consumption, were pushing the influence of secularism among Muslims a bit too far.

While there isn't exactly a spectacular array of must-do-must-see in Bodrum itself, it served as a superb base to explore southwest Turkey, including chartered trips to nearby Greek islands, and we did just that! ForgetMeNot Tours near our hostel offers tailored trips at rock-bottom prices! Run by the charming Dennis, you wouldn't even mind being charged a quid or two extra! Day 1 in Bodrum saw us crossing the Aegean to Kos (EU28 incl ferry ticket, taxes and shuttle service) while Days 2 and 3 saw us on one of the most cost-saving tours we've ever been on, a trip to Ephesus and Pamukkale inclusive of 1 night stay at a hotel, on top of 3 free meals and a chartered bus - all for just EU60! Ok, in view of refraining myself from dealing a death blow to you readers by way of boredom, I shall stop here. I shall pick up from here in the next entry so stay tuned!

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Oh... That Dreadful Thing!

No, don't worry, nothing really grave happened... but I must admit, writing an account of any trip in retrospect is never a pleasant experience as you scramble to recall every minute detail of what happened, especially for one epic trip like this! Plus, you never know how the turn of events between the moment you leave a particular place and the present moment would have affected the accuracy of your accounts, let alone all the biases, prejudices and distortions that come along with them... Nevertheless (always-the-more as Faiz would have it, haha!) I shall endeavour to recount the story as vivid and accurate as possible, although I'm pretty sure this account would not provide the full measure of justice the trip deserves. Mind you, it's been 2 weeks since we touched down in Singapore, and a good month or more since we last graced some of the places in the earlier legs of our trip... Already, that seemed like forever...

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Continents

ISTANBUL

For a city so vast and steeped in history, Istanbul is easy, and not at all daunting. We stepped out of the airport and straight into the metro to Aksaray where we had to transfer to a tram to Sultanahmet, the heart of all magnificent Ottoman architecture. Being a low-rise city, it was refreshing to see, for the first time, a skyline dominated by the many towering minarets of the ubiquitous Istanbullu mosques all patterned after and patented by the land's many kings. You don't just get the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya - you have at least another 5 mosques within Sultanahmet alone to replicate the grandeur of Ottoman architectural excellence at every turn of the head. It's a far cry from Dubai, but a cry that all corners of the world have come to acknowledge and approve as they nod their heads in sheer approval.

I am now sitting under a shade in a courtyard in between the two Istanbullu magnificent masterpieces, and the weather doesn't seem more perfect for a picnic on a lawn under Turkish skies. That's the great thing thus far - it's a city of 16 million but it doesn't feel too congested or busy and every corner is an invitation for a pleasant surprise.

We gazed upon the Blue Mosque yesterday, as well as the sprawling Topkapi Palace just 10 minutes east. Savouring two cultural landmarks all within half a day can be an overkill, but it's one of the many conveniences Istanbul offers and one you'll definitely enjoy - you have the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace within walking distance, with Aya Sofya in between the two. We washed that main course down with a sprinkle of Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar experience (which turned out to be a feast for the senses) and then headed for a boat ride across the Bosphorus for dessert - taking it all in in one dazzling visual treat. The sunset was a let-down thanks to the clouds but the views were no less awe-inspiring. And in between all these, we had lunch in Europe and dinner in Asia. The 3 of us (Aly, myself and a new friend from Holland whom we share our dorm with - Gerard) consolidated the day's experience with a round of sheesha at our hostel's roof-top terrace. The day couldn't have been better, I felt.

Istanbul really is a traveller's favourite, and rightfully so. You'd be mad to let go of any opportunity to grace this historical masterpiece that had witnessed the rise and fall of empires. It has the right thing to offer to travellers on any type of budget. Sure, the prices may be inflated compared to the rest of Turkey but you wouldn't mind forking out a bit extra to experience Turkish life. Let your imagination run wild (which isn't exactly hard to do when you have magnificent backdrops everywhere) and you'll see that your time here is well-spent.

We're leaving for Capadoccia tonight (TYL40, 11hrs, Istanbul-Goreme) and already I'm dreaming of my return here after Cairo.

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Worlds

I shall start by thanking all those who sent us off at the airport - it made the beginning of this epic trip all the more sweeter.

DUBAI

It was a good 9 hours before we reached Dubai for transit. We were lucky that the immigration allowed us a short respite in the city itself, a better option compared to being cooped up in an airport for 8 hours for the connecting flight to Istanbul. What struck us first was the waft of hot air as we exited the terminal building. Thank God for the metro, we were still able to reach the city proper in air-conditioned comfort.

Dubai is an enigma, really. Behind the facade of glossy buildings and monumental structures standing as beacons of man-made economic success - a mean feat to achieve within 10 years, from scratch no less - Dubai lacks the human touch. The Burj Al-Arab and Burj Khalifa were amazing in their own right but still it does not reflect much on the people who occupy them. This poor soul is not to be blamed though - I mean, with virtually no history to speak of, it's no wonder Dubai lacks identity. What culture can you speak of then? It is much like the parched sands the city's foundations were built upon.

You see Indians, Pakistanis, Filipinos, and a speckle of Chinese, Japanese, or Koreans even, but where are the Arabs? It is amazing that within such a short time frame, the natives of the land have themselves become a rarity. And perhaps, that is why it is hard to proliferate the same Arab culture that strongly characterises other cities in the region.

And don't even begin to talk about the heat! I must say, if you're not made for the desert, you'll find the mercury-boiling temperatures a bitter pill to swallow. And if you're a baggage wielding luxury traveller who thrives on air-con comfort, I say forget about tackling those streets on foot. Sure, you're better off seeing life through a coach window, but you haven't seen life as life is meant to be in the desert (or in this case, a desert city) if you can't trade luxury for sweat. Prissy much.

Masya'Allah, Mideast! 2010 - Dream to Reality

Finally, after weeks of deliberation, we have both come to compromise on what is to be our greatest journey thus far. So here's the finalised route. Nothing will be left unturned, from tarbus to jelabiyyeh, to baklava and shwarma! Even Ephesus, Baalbek and Apamea will have to get ready for this assault!

Anyway, this trip is set to be more expensive than previously planned for. Return tickets to Istanbul via Dubai have been purchased (SGD1019 on Turkish Airlines, including taxes, per person) as well as the one-way Cairo-Istanbul route (SGD320 on Turkish Airlines, including taxes, per person). Preliminary revision of budget puts it at SGD3000/pax for the entire trip so far. This is even after the 4 free nights stay at Amman. Yikes!

I can hardly wait.

This Just In - If God Willing

Start: Istanbul --- End: Istanbul
When: Mid May 2010 - Mid June 2010
Length: 3-4 weeks
Cost: A Bomb... hahaha (approx SGD2500)