Friday, May 14, 2010

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Continents



ISTANBUL

For a city so vast and steeped in history, Istanbul is easy, and not at all daunting. We stepped out of the airport and straight into the metro to Aksaray where we had to transfer to a tram to Sultanahmet, the heart of all magnificent Ottoman architecture. Being a low-rise city, it was refreshing to see, for the first time, a skyline dominated by the many towering minarets of the ubiquitous Istanbullu mosques all patterned after and patented by the land's many kings. You don't just get the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya - you have at least another 5 mosques within Sultanahmet alone to replicate the grandeur of Ottoman architectural excellence at every turn of the head. It's a far cry from Dubai, but a cry that all corners of the world have come to acknowledge and approve as they nod their heads in sheer approval.

I am now sitting under a shade in a courtyard in between the two Istanbullu magnificent masterpieces, and the weather doesn't seem more perfect for a picnic on a lawn under Turkish skies. That's the great thing thus far - it's a city of 16 million but it doesn't feel too congested or busy and every corner is an invitation for a pleasant surprise.

We gazed upon the Blue Mosque yesterday, as well as the sprawling Topkapi Palace just 10 minutes east. Savouring two cultural landmarks all within half a day can be an overkill, but it's one of the many conveniences Istanbul offers and one you'll definitely enjoy - you have the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace within walking distance, with Aya Sofya in between the two. We washed that main course down with a sprinkle of Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar experience (which turned out to be a feast for the senses) and then headed for a boat ride across the Bosphorus for dessert - taking it all in in one dazzling visual treat. The sunset was a let-down thanks to the clouds but the views were no less awe-inspiring. And in between all these, we had lunch in Europe and dinner in Asia. The 3 of us (Aly, myself and a new friend from Holland whom we share our dorm with - Gerard) consolidated the day's experience with a round of sheesha at our hostel's roof-top terrace. The day couldn't have been better, I felt.

Istanbul really is a traveller's favourite, and rightfully so. You'd be mad to let go of any opportunity to grace this historical masterpiece that had witnessed the rise and fall of empires. It has the right thing to offer to travellers on any type of budget. Sure, the prices may be inflated compared to the rest of Turkey but you wouldn't mind forking out a bit extra to experience Turkish life. Let your imagination run wild (which isn't exactly hard to do when you have magnificent backdrops everywhere) and you'll see that your time here is well-spent.

We're leaving for Capadoccia tonight (TYL40, 11hrs, Istanbul-Goreme) and already I'm dreaming of my return here after Cairo.



Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Worlds

I shall start by thanking all those who sent us off at the airport - it made the beginning of this epic trip all the more sweeter.

DUBAI

It was a good 9 hours before we reached Dubai for transit. We were lucky that the immigration allowed us a short respite in the city itself, a better option compared to being cooped up in an airport for 8 hours for the connecting flight to Istanbul. What struck us first was the waft of hot air as we exited the terminal building. Thank God for the metro, we were still able to reach the city proper in air-conditioned comfort.

Dubai is an enigma, really. Behind the facade of glossy buildings and monumental structures standing as beacons of man-made economic success - a mean feat to achieve within 10 years, from scratch no less - Dubai lacks the human touch. The Burj Al-Arab and Burj Khalifa were amazing in their own right but still it does not reflect much on the people who occupy them. This poor soul is not to be blamed though - I mean, with virtually no history to speak of, it's no wonder Dubai lacks identity. What culture can you speak of then? It is much like the parched sands the city's foundations were built upon.

You see Indians, Pakistanis, Filipinos, and a speckle of Chinese, Japanese, or Koreans even, but where are the Arabs? It is amazing that within such a short time frame, the natives of the land have themselves become a rarity. And perhaps, that is why it is hard to proliferate the same Arab culture that strongly characterises other cities in the region.

And don't even begin to talk about the heat! I must say, if you're not made for the desert, you'll find the mercury-boiling temperatures a bitter pill to swallow. And if you're a baggage wielding luxury traveller who thrives on air-con comfort, I say forget about tackling those streets on foot. Sure, you're better off seeing life through a coach window, but you haven't seen life as life is meant to be in the desert (or in this case, a desert city) if you can't trade luxury for sweat. Prissy much.