lost in transit

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Turkiye Part Uno

2010-06-29T17:45:00.002+08:00

Ok, so you've heard what I had to say about Istanbul. To summarise that in one word - simply 'amazing'! Bear this in mind... because it comes in handy for the rest of our stay in Turkey!

So we left Istanbul for central Anatolia, the fabled land called Cappadocia (Kapadokya). As enchanting as the name sounds, the landscape was truly amazing. That 10-hour ride from Istanbul's otogar right to the heart of Goreme in Flintstone territory was well worth it! Fancy running into Wilma dusting her sabre-tooth rug or Betty running errands of a few Pterodactyl eggs for dinner? This is the place to be. If you wish, you can even choose to spend a few nights in a cave without going outdoors! Well, many of Goreme's (pronounced Go-ray-may, we got weird stares for pronouncing it as Go-rim) hostels have a few basement rooms carved into rocks that characterise much of Central Anatolia's stunning moonscape. We chose Emre instead, a convenient yet super affordable home-away-from-home just a stone's throw away from the otogar (TL20/pax for a double with attached bathroom). This place is pretty peaceful, and a favourite among Koreans and Japanese!

So, besides blinding you with sheer beauty, what else does Cappadocia has to offer? More sublime beauty upclose of course! Don't miss out on any opportunity to trek through wild flowers at the Zemi, Red or Rose valleys around Goreme (at least in spring). I ain't kidding when I said moonscape - the rock formations are so surreal you feel like you're warped into a different celestial dimension altogether! Plus, even if you're not the rough-and-tumble sort, there is enough scenic spots atop weathered plumes to make for a romantic picnic as you survey your enchanting surroundings. Anyway, take it from us, if you decide to trek, we recommend renting a bike. They don't cost much (TL10/4hrs negotiable) but they save you tonnes of precious minutes shuttling between rudimentarily-signposted valleys. Food selection, however, doesn't deviate much from the normal fare you get in Istanbul, only slightly cheaper. And that's not saying alot considering Cappadocia is miles away (in terms of distance and development) from Istanbul - already, this pristine abode of gnomes bears the imprint of tourism's voracious capitalistic appetite. Having said this, try the ubiquitous oven-baked stew (TL17) that requires some Bob-the-Builder skill before tucking in!

Onward journey from here took us on a 12-hour ride to Antakya (Antioch) on Suha bus (TL60/pax) where we crossed the border to Aleppo (2hrs) but this part shall be covered in the Syrian edition!

Fast-forward 3 weeks and we found ourselves touching down at Ataturk Havalimani again from Cairo via EgyptAir (SGD321/pax incl taxes, 4hrs). The Istanbul that I fell in love with 3 weeks prior our return remained as lovely as ever but sadly, the same can't be said about the weather. It poured when we touched down. Fortunately, we had to travel straight to Bodrum that night to make sense of whatever little time we had left in Turkey, and the trip for that matter. So, it was straight to the otogar for us and then a harrowing 14-hour ride (TL55) to Turkey's unsung hero on the Aegean.

I must have been pretty groggy when we arrived at Bodrum because I swear I thought we were in Greece! With it's neatly arranged white cuboid abodes stacked into hillsides overlooking a tranquil marina and a crusader's castle on a lonely promontory, Bodrum can easily be mistaken for Greece. and rightfully so - the Greek island of Kos is just 1hr away by ferry! Anyway, Bodrum is the typical resort town where travellers drop by just to lull the hours away on the beach. Being 'wasteful' with time here is completely forgiveable. It was Aly's bright idea to check into Villa Kaseria (EU12/pax for double with attached bathroom) in Gumbet, just 2km west of Bodrum, and what a bright idea it was! Technically, it's a village off Bodrum but due to rapid development, it has since been consumed as Bodrum's western suburb. Away from the centre of action, Gumbet offers a peace of mind that was much needed to massage away frayed nerves. While you won't mind the lack of activities Bodrum has to offer (apart from suntanning, swimming, massaging, suntanning, swimming, massaging etc etc etc...), we were disappointed with the exorbitant prices of basic meals that also included pork on the menu - that, together with alcohol consumption, were pushing the influence of secularism among Muslims a bit too far.

While there isn't exactly a spectacular array of must-do-must-see in Bodrum itself, it served as a superb base to explore southwest Turkey, including chartered trips to nearby Greek islands, and we did just that! ForgetMeNot Tours near our hostel offers tailored trips at rock-bottom prices! Run by the charming Dennis, you wouldn't even mind being charged a quid or two extra! Day 1 in Bodrum saw us crossing the Aegean to Kos (EU28 incl ferry ticket, taxes and shuttle service) while Days 2 and 3 saw us on one of the most cost-saving tours we've ever been on, a trip to Ephesus and Pamukkale inclusive of 1 night stay at a hotel, on top of 3 free meals and a chartered bus - all for just EU60! Ok, in view of refraining myself from dealing a death blow to you readers by way of boredom, I shall stop here. I shall pick up from here in the next entry so stay tuned!

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Oh... That Dreadful Thing!

2010-06-29T17:36:00.003+08:00

No, don't worry, nothing really grave happened... but I must admit, writing an account of any trip in retrospect is never a pleasant experience as you scramble to recall every minute detail of what happened, especially for one epic trip like this! Plus, you never know how the turn of events between the moment you leave a particular place and the present moment would have affected the accuracy of your accounts, let alone all the biases, prejudices and distortions that come along with them... Nevertheless (always-the-more as Faiz would have it, haha!) I shall endeavour to recount the story as vivid and accurate as possible, although I'm pretty sure this account would not provide the full measure of justice the trip deserves. Mind you, it's been 2 weeks since we touched down in Singapore, and a good month or more since we last graced some of the places in the earlier legs of our trip... Already, that seemed like forever...

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Continents

2010-05-14T19:42:00.004+08:00

ISTANBUL

For a city so vast and steeped in history, Istanbul is easy, and not at all daunting. We stepped out of the airport and straight into the metro to Aksaray where we had to transfer to a tram to Sultanahmet, the heart of all magnificent Ottoman architecture. Being a low-rise city, it was refreshing to see, for the first time, a skyline dominated by the many towering minarets of the ubiquitous Istanbullu mosques all patterned after and patented by the land's many kings. You don't just get the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya - you have at least another 5 mosques within Sultanahmet alone to replicate the grandeur of Ottoman architectural excellence at every turn of the head. It's a far cry from Dubai, but a cry that all corners of the world have come to acknowledge and approve as they nod their heads in sheer approval.

I am now sitting under a shade in a courtyard in between the two Istanbullu magnificent masterpieces, and the weather doesn't seem more perfect for a picnic on a lawn under Turkish skies. That's the great thing thus far - it's a city of 16 million but it doesn't feel too congested or busy and every corner is an invitation for a pleasant surprise.

We gazed upon the Blue Mosque yesterday, as well as the sprawling Topkapi Palace just 10 minutes east. Savouring two cultural landmarks all within half a day can be an overkill, but it's one of the many conveniences Istanbul offers and one you'll definitely enjoy - you have the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace within walking distance, with Aya Sofya in between the two. We washed that main course down with a sprinkle of Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar experience (which turned out to be a feast for the senses) and then headed for a boat ride across the Bosphorus for dessert - taking it all in in one dazzling visual treat. The sunset was a let-down thanks to the clouds but the views were no less awe-inspiring. And in between all these, we had lunch in Europe and dinner in Asia. The 3 of us (Aly, myself and a new friend from Holland whom we share our dorm with - Gerard) consolidated the day's experience with a round of sheesha at our hostel's roof-top terrace. The day couldn't have been better, I felt.

Istanbul really is a traveller's favourite, and rightfully so. You'd be mad to let go of any opportunity to grace this historical masterpiece that had witnessed the rise and fall of empires. It has the right thing to offer to travellers on any type of budget. Sure, the prices may be inflated compared to the rest of Turkey but you wouldn't mind forking out a bit extra to experience Turkish life. Let your imagination run wild (which isn't exactly hard to do when you have magnificent backdrops everywhere) and you'll see that your time here is well-spent.

We're leaving for Capadoccia tonight (TYL40, 11hrs, Istanbul-Goreme) and already I'm dreaming of my return here after Cairo.

Masya'Allah Mideast 2010 - Stradling Two Worlds

2010-05-14T04:20:00.006+08:00

I shall start by thanking all those who sent us off at the airport - it made the beginning of this epic trip all the more sweeter.

DUBAI

It was a good 9 hours before we reached Dubai for transit. We were lucky that the immigration allowed us a short respite in the city itself, a better option compared to being cooped up in an airport for 8 hours for the connecting flight to Istanbul. What struck us first was the waft of hot air as we exited the terminal building. Thank God for the metro, we were still able to reach the city proper in air-conditioned comfort.

Dubai is an enigma, really. Behind the facade of glossy buildings and monumental structures standing as beacons of man-made economic success - a mean feat to achieve within 10 years, from scratch no less - Dubai lacks the human touch. The Burj Al-Arab and Burj Khalifa were amazing in their own right but still it does not reflect much on the people who occupy them. This poor soul is not to be blamed though - I mean, with virtually no history to speak of, it's no wonder Dubai lacks identity. What culture can you speak of then? It is much like the parched sands the city's foundations were built upon.

You see Indians, Pakistanis, Filipinos, and a speckle of Chinese, Japanese, or Koreans even, but where are the Arabs? It is amazing that within such a short time frame, the natives of the land have themselves become a rarity. And perhaps, that is why it is hard to proliferate the same Arab culture that strongly characterises other cities in the region.

And don't even begin to talk about the heat! I must say, if you're not made for the desert, you'll find the mercury-boiling temperatures a bitter pill to swallow. And if you're a baggage wielding luxury traveller who thrives on air-con comfort, I say forget about tackling those streets on foot. Sure, you're better off seeing life through a coach window, but you haven't seen life as life is meant to be in the desert (or in this case, a desert city) if you can't trade luxury for sweat. Prissy much.

Masya'Allah, Mideast! 2010 - Dream to Reality

2010-04-24T21:01:00.004+08:00

Finally, after weeks of deliberation, we have both come to compromise on what is to be our greatest journey thus far. So here's the finalised route. Nothing will be left unturned, from tarbus to jelabiyyeh, to baklava and shwarma! Even Ephesus, Baalbek and Apamea will have to get ready for this assault!

Anyway, this trip is set to be more expensive than previously planned for. Return tickets to Istanbul via Dubai have been purchased (SGD1019 on Turkish Airlines, including taxes, per person) as well as the one-way Cairo-Istanbul route (SGD320 on Turkish Airlines, including taxes, per person). Preliminary revision of budget puts it at SGD3000/pax for the entire trip so far. This is even after the 4 free nights stay at Amman. Yikes!

I can hardly wait.

This Just In - If God Willing

2010-04-05T20:22:00.002+08:00

Start: Istanbul --- End: Istanbul
When: Mid May 2010 - Mid June 2010
Length: 3-4 weeks
Cost: A Bomb... hahaha (approx SGD2500)

Traipsing Taipinoy - 2 Months On

2009-09-26T17:57:00.004+08:00

Gosh, I miss this. It was taken at Puka Beach on Boracay.

Ok, Aly would be thrilled that FINALLY he'll see something new here since the last entry which was at least 2 months back. Typically me I would say. Not that I'm lazy, just that the opportunity didn't present itself... Ok, just an excuse to be plain lazy.

If you must know what happened after Boracay, we went to Siquijor and then onward to Cebu to catch our flight back to Singapore. Wait... didn't I mention this 2 entries ago? Anyway, Siquijor was sublime to say the least and even 2 months on, I'm still dreaming of it's aura of blissful seclusion and the warm and friendly people at JJ's and Charisma. Just 2 days back, Aly was thinking of going back to Siquijor for a quick escapade. I can only wait till at least next May after graduation. But that, as Aly and Katie would know, would be part of the bigger attempt to trace the entire length of Siberia to Moscow from Beijing... ok, I'd leave this to another day.

Anyway, you'll be greeted by a photo-flood next. I wouldn't dare put a timeframe to that but it should trickle within the next... errrrr, 2 months? Haha =)

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Boracay Sports Edition

2009-07-13T15:56:00.002+08:00

An account written by Muhammad Aly s/o Musa,
Singaporean heart-throb, handsome-bugger, Mr. 6/8-packs, "bakla" (ABF)-magnet, Merajuk King, Aly & Sons founder, and resident financial controller

* * *

Boracay is a gorgeous beach paradise with white sandy beaches, immaculately clear water, chic bars playing live music at night and most importantly, lovely people both foreign and local who welcome you with wide open arms. It was unfortunate that Matt couldn’t join us for the water sports, but I’m sure he made the most of his time exploring the rest of the island with the mountain bike he rented.

Farahdi and I met 2 guys named Kristoffer and Mario who initially looked like dodgy water-sport touts trying to suck our wallets dry, but they turned out to be genuinely nice guys who provided us with excellent service at insanely low prices! We eventually signed up for 3 activities: the marine walk (P800 each for 30 minutes), parasailing (P1200 each for 25 minutes) and the ATV [All Terrain Vehicle] ride (P600 each for 1.5hrs).

The marine walk involved climbing down a barge into the seabed about 15-20 metres deep. It is meant for people who aren’t certified divers but yet want to have a firsthand experience amongst colourful fishes and corals. We had to wear an astronaut-like helmet on our heads where a constant supply of Oxygen linked by a tube from the barge helped us breathe deep underwater. Ugly as I looked (Matt: Oh stop the ego-bashing already honey, I'm sure all the Ladyboys of Boracay would wail in disagreement here), I enjoyed the experience, especially when the fishes in a myriad of colours started to nibble on the bread held by my fingers. The disappointing thing about this activity was that we were not allowed to venture out of a 10m radius as the oxygen tubes weren’t long enough. I must say that it will be a good experience for first timers (like me), but if you’ve ever been snorkelling or scuba diving before, you might just want to give this activity a miss.

Parasailing was a very calming and soothing activity. It might seem a little daunting from far to be held up high in the sky by a parachute, but when you’re at it you’ll realise that you won’t actually have any of the “adrenaline pumping, rollercoaster-like” experience. Parasailing was a great way to have a helicopter view of the entire island North to South and East to West. We were both hanging under the same parachute and we truly enjoyed it. The strong winds, the breathtaking views of Boracay on one end, the rolling green mountains of Panay island on the other, and the sweeping views of the vast blue ocean all around us and beneath our feet are certainly good enough reason for anyone to want to try the sport.

After dipping and sunbathing in the sea for a good 2 hours and a light Starbucks meal, we headed for our final day activity- ATV ride! The ATV is this cool, funky looking 4-wheeled vehicle which has motorcycle-like brakes and a push lever as the accelerator. It was a little bit difficult to control the vehicle at the start, but after a while one will naturally get the hang of controlling the ATV along sharp and sometimes steep bends. The trail was paved for most parts of the journey, so don’t expect dirt paths and bumpy rides. The guide (who was on an ATV in front of us all the way) brought us to a butterfly park for P60 each. It was a disappointment – there were almost no butterflies, and all we saw were a few bats and an owl caged up in the enclosure. Farahdi freaked out and I posed for a few pictures with the animals to make the most of my P60. Our next stop was a view at the highest peak of Boracay (Mt. Luhud) which cost us P50 each. I couldn’t help but wonder why they would charge us to climb a few steps up to the vantage point; until I saw caged snakes, peacocks, cat bears and chained monkeys at the entrance – a pathetic attempt to convince us that the P50 we paid was well worth it. An unkempt mini-zoo with malnourished animals right smack at the highest peak of Boracay certainly didn’t go down well with me at least, and I’m sure Farahdi wasn’t impressed as well. Despite the disappointments, I must say that the ATV ride on a whole was quite exhilarating and meant more for thrill seekers. Undoubtedly, we enjoyed the ATV ride the most out of the 3 activities that we experienced for the day. My greatest wish is for the guides to allow for some overtaking and friendly racing along the stretches with lighter traffic, which would have added a whole lot more fun to this already exciting experience.

Credit has to be given to our guide Mario, who was always there to carry our bags, slippers, and belongings. He also took pictures of us tirelessly from the boat and even sitting backwards on the ATV! We were very impressed by the sincerity he showed in his service towards us. He made every effort to ensure that our belongings (which were all over the place) were in safe hands. He never once asked for a tip (we absolutely loathe guides who are thick skinned enough to ask for tips and request for more if they feel not enough is given), and always had this very humble disposition. It was this genuineness in him that moved our hearts and naturally, we tipped him generously after that.

Boracay is certainly worth a visit for water sports or beach lovers, but I must warn you that peak season rates could easily be triple of what we paid for. However, do remember that prices are always negotiable, and it doesn’t hurt to bargain with the touts. Aside from the overcrowded population of transvestites on the island, I have no other complaints to make about the island. One could easily spend the day playing numerous water sports or even touring the island on a scooter or bicycle, and spend the night chilling at a bar by the beach, and lastly, retire into the night stargazing under the moonlight.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 3)

2009-07-07T21:09:00.003+08:00

We bade farewell to the brilliant shores of Siquijor this morning with sunken hearts. It was a short stint but I'll definitely dream of gracing its soil for years to come. It was the perfect ending to a month-long voyage through the Philippines. For its seclusion and underrated backpacking scene, Siquijor did not disappoint. In fact, it surpassed our expectations by a mile. Of all the nice people we've met in the Philippines, the bulk was in Siquijor. Of all the food we've tasted on these shores, the best were in Siquijor. Of all the rooms we've raided, the one in Siquijor ranked among the top. Of all the Pesos we've splurged, it was most well-spent in Siquijor. I can go on, just so you'll get the point.

It wasn't easy getting to Siquijor. We spent 2 days travelling to be exact, with stopovers in Iloilo City and Dumaguete. But victory was sweet. We took a 2.30pm boat to the island (P160/pax) and was later greeted by a slurry of touts (but none with the ferocity of anywhere else in the Philippines). Rex won our attention and checked out the recommended accommodations at the northern tip of the island. Disappointment loomed - the rooms we wanted were booked or overpriced, and there were no white sandy beaches. Rex insisted that we checked out the ones at San Juan on the opposite end. We relented and Charisma won us over in a split second. The location was pristine and the rooms affordable (P1200/night). Better still, it's just a stone's throw away from JJ's Cafe. This place kicks ass literally. It's run by a charming Australian expatriate, John, and his Filipino partner, Jaisa. Their personalized service is to-die-for. Jaisa whipped up arguably the best-tasting meals on the island if not the Philippines. John, on the other hand, is an overflowing wealth of information. He was our advisor for trip, recommending us what to do (which we did) and how to move on from Siquijor. Most memorable however were his stories. Get this, he has worked with a gazillion international artistes on their photoshoots and he still knows some on a personal basis. His repertoire includes the late MJ, Mariah Carey, Westlife, the late Heath Ledger, U2, the Dalai Lama, Angelina Jolie, the Spice Girls, and Rain. Yes, Rain. We were wowed and awestruck instantaneously. He is a living legend in our eyes.

As John suggested, we snorkelled at the marine sanctuary and had lunch by the waterfall near Lazi before dipping for a refreshing swimming. Getoy was our tricycle driver driver for the day. The day started with a stopover at Dive Safari where Rex (the diver) entertained our whims and fancies. After completing the rental of equipment (P150/pax for flippers, life-jacket and goggles), it was a short walk to the sanctuary (P50/pax entrance fee). Aly and I jumped straight into the water but Farahdi had her reservations (she has a phobia of fishes) so Rex was kind enough to accompany her by the beach as Aly and I explored the wonders of the sea. I must say that although I have seen better reefs in Perhentian, Siquijor's was still pleasurable. Aly was satisfied, at least for now since I'll be bringing him to Perhentian soon. Not wanting to let Farahdi miss out on all the fun, we finally dragged her in for a good hour of exploration. Needless to say she was all squeals and tears but kudos for an attempt to overcome her fears. It was definitely a rewarding experience for all of us.

2 hours later, we were whisked away to the waterfall where we had packed lunch from JJ's. After Bomod-ok, that this didn't even come close (somewhat of a Filipino Kota Tinggi) but the pool was shallow enough for me to paddle in. Aly and I did a pseudo Aaron Kwok near the plunge pool, in what I reckon was the most fulfilling 'hydro-massage' ever. Farahdi stayed high and dry but went trigger-happy instead. We returned to Charisma to wash up and headed straight to JJ's, again, where a sumptuous meal awaits us. This time, Jamma served us and like John and Jaisa, was a bundle of joy.

Like JJ's, the staff at Charisma also wowed us with their commendable efforts to make their guests feel at home. Giselle, the owner, is an unstoppable chatterbox once we thugged at the right strings. Earlier, the 3 of us had discussed in jest on the possibilities of starting up a similar backpackers resort somewhere in the Philippines. Giselle was more than happy to share her experience with us (or rather, it was us who milked all possible information out of her). To our amazement, she was also a newcomer to the scene, having recently bought the resort over.

Unlike Boracay, Siquijor is cheap. It's low-key, which makes it perfect for travellers on a tight budget. It's the sort of place where you get what you pay for with no extra nonsense, and fortunately you don't have to pay much. We didn't. And the best part was, quality is guaranteed every step of the way. I had told John that Siquijor left me with the impression that time stood still. His reply was simple: yes, it does, but you'd be surprised how fast the days come and go. Now, I guess he was right all along. We had 2 days in Siquijor, but it felt as if we only had a few hours there. Siquijor is like the sphinx cat - you either love it or hate it. I loved it. Its wonders unfold in simple packages, from the hospitality of the people to the beauty of nature's gifts. If you're ever privileged to grace Siquijor's shores, come armed with 3 names - John, Jaisa and Giselle. Your stay would definitely be as enjoyable as ours.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 2)

2009-07-05T11:12:00.005+08:00

We're sitting at the lobby of Hotel Palwa now, taking in the cool air-con comfort to seethe our (almost) wrecked nerves after missing our 10.30am boat to Siquijor. The next one is at 2.30pm, and it's only 11.15am now. But it's ok I guess, because at least it allows me the time catch up on my final blogging backlog. And at least, it allows me an escape from the descend of this sudden funeral-like atmosphere.

This is the part where the Visayas really comes into the picture. We had spent the immediate 5 days after Taiwan still on Luzon for Kabayan and Taal. Back at NAIA Terminal 3, our island escapade never seemed clearer. Unfortunately, ammendments by Cebu Pacific left us flying to Kalibo instead of Caticlan where a free shuttle bus will take us from there to complete what we had initially paid for. As if that wasn't bad enough, the flight was scheduled for a good 2 hours later and by the time we checked in at Boracay, it was already 9pm. Thanks to Ms Melody, a personnel of the tourism board who was deployed to assist us stranded passengers, we got a good deal at Tan's Guesthouse (P1800/night) at Station 2 on White Beach.

Boracay is an island paradise meant for party-animals. We fell in love with the immaculate beachfront promenade almost instantly, what with the warm glow of crimson lights, thud-thumping music emanating from the various bars as well as the powder-fine sand that melted beneath our feet. But for me, it was a sort of enigma. It's the sort of place where you'll enjoy with friends or companions, but yet I experienced a sort of abandonement amidst the crowd, a sense of forlorn amidst excitement. Aly and Farahdi had the luxury of trying the parasail, marine walk as well as the ATV drive the next day. I shall request that Aly furnish a write-up for this because I could never capture an accurate account of their experience.

Like I mentioned, I was cash-strapped and the only thing to do was to rent a mountain bike (P300/day) to tour the island. Not that I hate cycling (I love it to bits in fact), but I believe I could have enjoyed it better with people around. I made my rounds to the northern and eastern reaches of the island. Puka Beach was sublime, with its postcard-perfect sands and rocky cliffs to one side. Diniwid had a village charm while Bulabog had the low-key fishing town atmosphere. They all had something different to offer and on hind-sight, I enjoyed the chance to do all that on my own, taking in whatever I could whiff unobstructed by any other person's concerns. For the first time, it felt good to be ignored. That's a mean feat considering I'm such a social creature.

We met up around 6pm to catch the sunset at White Beach before dinner. Although arguably one of the best I've seen so far, the throngs of holiday-makers that crowded he water's edge sort of spoiled the atmosphere. Aly and Farahdi had their usual Indian fare while I opted for an all-you-can-eat buffet at Bug's Grill (P250/pax). We then pilgrimaged to Summer Place where I was bought over by the live acoustic performance. Farahdi charmed the bartender and got us some virgin mixes. And to put icing on the cake, I was sabotaged to perform a song with the band.It was nerve-wrecking; I don't think I've recovered from the shock yet.I sang Mraz's I'm Yours and that got us anew friend. Flabia, a Brazillian exchange master student from Japan,joined us for t rest of the night. We stargazed on the sands before retiring to our rooms at 2am.

We checked out of our rooms at 11am the next morning and headed straight to Starbucks where Flabia joined us for breakfast. She's a ball of fun really. It was a pity that we had such a short time together. By noon, we left for yet another underrated island paradise. 2 days on, we're still on our way there. I can't wait for the nipa cottages and endless beaches. It's an island of mystery, they say. I'm thrilled to see what magic it'll work on us.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Visayan Voyage (Part 1)

2009-07-05T00:37:00.000+08:00

The flight back from Taipei was serene; the weather was brilliant, a complete turnaround from the turbulent flight to Taiwan. And looking back on the emerald isle with the towering cumulus over the central range makes the perfect fairytale ending to a terrific trip.

Farahdi joined us, finally, at NAIA Terminal 3 after what seemed to be an eternity – our plane got slightly delayed in Taipei and she had arrived 2 hours before that. I’m sure Aly was also anticipating that moment because he had had a ‘tough’ time living alone with me for 2 weeks. The 3 of us hailed a cab a headed own straight to Pasay to catch a bus to Baguio (P445/pax). By 6pm, we were on our way to the cordilleras, the second time for Aly and I. We reached in the dead of the night, at 2am to be exact, and we had no choice but to camp at the 24-hr Dunkin Donut outlet at Session Road. It was painful; we waited for the bus to Kabayan which were told would start operating at 5am but the first bus never came until 10am. Thankfully, we paid a visit to the Muslim stall like before (2 weeks earlier to be exact) and the ‘home-cooked’ halal food somewhat lifted our spirits for the day. The ride to Kabayan (P223/pax) took us another 6 hours and after what seemed like an endless road, we arrived at the safety of Coop Lodge in the heart of Kabayan Town (P200/pax per night). Nothing fancy there, just basic accommodation amenities which did not go down too well with some of us, but that was to be expected.

The next day at Kabayan was what we had been waiting for. We hired a guide, Mr Timmy (P800) to take us to Pongosan Caves near sitio Bongao where 5 mummies resided. It was estimated that they had been there for centuries and they surely did not make it easy for us to pay a visit. The 7km walk was the easy part; what was not so easy was the last 45min climb to the cave entrance. The trail was steep and poorly-maintained with overgrown grass and toppled branches which made for an agonizing ascend. But it was worth it. Timmy was kind enough open the coffins to allow us an up-close-and-personal experience with the remains of the deceased. We scrambled back down to Bongao and then returned to Kabayan to call it a day. Rewarding as it was, we were exhausted after battering the terrain – our sandals (except Aly’s Tevas) took the toll and we had scars of grass-lashes to prove of the ordeal. We took the 5.30am bus out the next morning, but not before an ‘eventful’ night where we nearly burnt down the entire lodge – we disposed of smouldering cigarette butts in the wastepaper bucket by mistake.

Back in Manila, we checked into Malate Pensionne in the backpacker’s district. It was Lonely Planet’s pick but we had to complain that it was a complete sauna and the beds were infested with bugs. I slept on the floor the second night. Anyway, what was to be the highlight was Taal Volcano. We took the bus (P123/pax) from Baclaran for a 2-hr ride to Tagaytay. The view from the ridge was breathtaking, owing to brilliant light of the summer sun. We took a package (P1500) for a transport to and from Talisay (the lakeside town) and the return bangka trip to the island itself. I was more than peeved to learn that the locals had abused municipal recommendations to enforce a mandatory guide on all visitors (P500 for a guide was no joke). Get this, the trail was well-worn and leisurely that the chances of anyone getting a cardiac arrest on the way up and down the crater is far from remote, what more getting lost. Aly and Farahdi hired horses for the experience but cash-straped, I had to decline. I did the climb in 30 minutes, faster than the horses, with my own guide panting behind me. For all the differences in opinions that day, all of us agreed that the view from the top, though beautiful, was a bit of a let down. I had expected a boiling lake of sulphur and smoke billowing from the still-active vents, the ones you’d imagine in Arnold’s Total Recall. What greeted us was unsettling serenity instead. Then again, we dare not ask for too much. As I reached the starting point of the climb, I glanced at all the tired horses whose lives were banished to overwork. The gatekeeper joked that they will only retire when they die. Uncalled for, I think. All in all, Taal is beautiful (Aly would disagree because the rice terraces were more sublime), and I’m proud to boast that I actually ascended and descended a live volcano. But on a personal note, unless you have a voracious appetite for equestrian meat, walk the talk.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Taiwan Trail

2009-07-04T00:28:00.001+08:00

It was a brief respite, a visual break of sorts from the emerald monotony of the Philippines’ cordilleras – don’t get me wrong, the mountains were gorgeous and we loved it to bits but a week of it can get mundane. Anyway, I told Katie that ‘sublime’ doesn’t even begin to do Taiwan justice. Remember Katie? Well, she’s the brave British lady we met in Sagada and then later Banaue. Yes, I told her just that. And I meant it to the T. What’s there not to love? We thought we’d have enough of mountains but Taiwan had all that and more. I mentioned that we adored Taipei the moment we landed, and to our surprise, we would sustain that sentiment right to the very end. It’s a lot to squeeze here in this entry but I’ll try to make it as succinct and enjoyable as possible.

We checked in at Taipei Hostel (NT750/night) off Linsen N Road. It’s an institution in itself (quotes Lonely Planet). All manner of nationalities graced its dorms and you really get a global feel in its lounge. It served as our base to explore the city. Taipei was everything that Manila wasn’t – it’s clean, modern, organized, and reminiscent of home. We reserved the second day in Taiwan for Ximending and Shilin night market. Ximending is Taipei’s answer to Orchard Road – hip, young, funky, and a lot of good-looking people. We ate at a local eatery for brunch and ordered oyster omelette, carrot cake and fishball noodle. I loved it but unfortunately Aly didn’t, I guess it was the blend and oily texture of the food. It was impossible to track down all of Ximending’s streets (mind you, 8 major intersections and a maze of narrow lanes within the designated vicinity wasn’t a joke) so by night fall, we headed down to Shilin for its infamous night market. It was mayhem, literally, with throngs of people of all ages and nationalities congregating in a space that resembles Geylang. I wanted to try the smelly tofu but the slightest whiff of it got my intestines churning. I backed away, far from the warzone and into the safe confines of a KFC outlet overlooking Shilin’s main drag for dinner. Still, the multitude of happenings on the streets was too much to handle in just a single visit. I vowed to return, but maybe sometime later. All in all, Taipei was fun but we felt that we have experienced it all in a day. Perhaps, it was just too similar to Singapore.

Hualien on the East Coast is a cookie-cutter town mimicking the urban amenities of Taipei albeit on a rural scale. It’s a city of 109000 people so you’ll get the big-town-small-feel effect that’s palatable to any urban dwellers who yearn to escape from the city beat. It was a breeze getting out of town; we purchased a ticket from the Taipei Railway Station (NT445/pax) straight to Hualien and 5 minutes later we were whisked on board. The ride itself was smooth and promised spectacular views of the rugged coastline of Taiwan’s Pacific shore, which it delivered promptly after turning southbound somewhere after Fulong. Sleep, if you must (which we did anyway since the seats were very comfortable) but be sure to wake up in time for Hualien Station just 2 hours later.

Don’t be fooled but what you first see and hear when you exit the gates at Hualien – the city did look like quite a drab especially in the searing summer heat and the omnipresent touts incessantly vied for the attention of anyone remotely foreign-looking – for once we passed all that, it made a good base to explore what the East Coast is all about. The 3 days spent there saw us exploring Taiwan’s much-publicised Taroko Gorge and the maddeningly beautiful rugged coastline. We made Chian Tai Hotel (NT700, double with attached bathroom) located at the junction just outside the train and bus stations as our home for the next few days.

Most people would have convinced that you would need a guide to Taroko and they will go the extra mile (mark my words) to have you know that the best way to view the limestone formations is by hiring a taxi and whizzing through it for half a day. Reality check: the gorge is bisected by a national highway which runs its entire length and there are permanent settlements within the park so public transport is not a problem. This was exactly why we did the tour/trek ourselves; to allow ourselves ample time to take in the views without the fuss of someone haggling over you. We took a mid-morning bus to Tienhsiang (NT191/pax) which we did in 2 parts to allow time for a brief tour of the park entrance and by 1pm, we embarked on our first trek to the Cave of The Water Curtain. The walk itself was nothing spectacular save for the towering limestone surfaces that dwarfed us but true to its name (like straight out of a Chinese period serial) the cave offered a brief walk through an underground stream which led to an internal waterfall best thought of as water streaming down a series of cracks from its ceiling. It would not do Indiana Jones proud but the brief cave walk was pure fun – we showered in its cool torrent and traced the ankle-deep stream on our way out. Desperate to make time for our second trek up to Huoran Pavillion, we headed back to Tienhsiang and traced the trailhead up the slopes. It was no walk in the park; do not even dream of attempting this if you’re short on time and energy. We certainly did not have the luxury of an entire day and I for sure had yet to recover from the punishing hikes in Luzon. Guidebooks would have you believe that making 400m along a 1.9km trail is not so hard. Only true if you’re doing geometry – Points A and B were not connected by a straight line. The trail was steep, slippery and vegetated, something we’re used to but not after a series of prior trekking. We only made it as far as the 1.1km mark where there is a viewing platform where you can glance at the valley below as well as the pavilion that seemed to be an eternity away. After some heavy panting and a good 4 sticks of cigarette each, we retraced our steps and took a cab (NT200) back to Hualien, with a stop at the Swallow Grotto, arguably the most scenic and majestic stretch of the gorge, with the highway weaving in and out of the limestone on one side and 300m sheer surfaces on the other.

Having soaked in enough of Taiwan’s famed mountainous interior, we embarked on a road trip south of Hualien along coastal Highway 11. It was simply breathtaking. NT90/pax got us to Cow Mountain Beach where we trekked down a 1km dirt path down from the highway turnoff to the beach. Every bit as dramatic Taroko, we witnessed the Pacific greets emerald cliffs. The beach is hemmed in between these 2 giants. It was off-limits to swim but was the perfect spot to get a nice tan. Those not keen on that would have a tough time locating any decent shady spots but whatever it is, the stunning views would blow you away, literally. On our way up, we ran into ‘Mr. San’ and his wife, ‘Mdm. Shi Xian’, who very generously offered us a ride to Shihtiping (some 30km further south). It was this kind gesture that sealed the perfect impression of the Taiwanese for us – warm and inviting people who make particularly gracious hosts to any foreigners. Shihtiping boasts the dramatic limestone coast where one would be easily impressed by the ravenous power of the ocean. Centuries of erosion carved blowholes, cuestas and cliffs that would be the domain of any deserving geologist. Such was the moonscape of Shihtiping – the hostile face-off between land and sea unfolding before your very eyes. We could not resist exploring rugged coastline and soon engaged ourselves in a good hour of trekking the coast, which involved climbing, skipping and clawing on the part-barnacle-infested part-aeolian-erosion surfaces of boulders and rocks. To cap it off, we sat at the base of a cuesta, by a blowhole, and took in the ironic beauty of it all, with a video as proof. By 5.30pm, we board the bus back to Hualien (NT183).

We returned to Taipei the next afternoon, only to learn that a moderate 5.3 magnitude tremor rocked the coast off Hualien that same morning. Amazingly enough, we slept through it like a baby still lulled by the magnificent wonders of the East Coast. Our remaining hours in Taiwan were spent roaming the streets of the city to view Taipei 101where w had good food at its fabulous food court, especially so for Aly who finally had some Indian fills. We then headed to Core Pacific City or better-known as giant golf ball cum Jupiter cum sotong ball or any either round ornaments you can think of. We returned to our hostel early but lulled the hours again on the roof garden smoking and occasionally visiting the lounge to take advantage of the free wi-fi.

Taiwan is really a land of contrasts; modernity constantly married with traditions, nature alongside the man-made, the rural versus the urbane. It makes for succinct East Asian odyssey if time and money aren’t on your side. We had a week in Taiwan and it was 7 days well-spent; we ingested the best of what Ilha Farmosa had to offer and quite honestly, we’d both be more than willing to return should the opportunity present itself in future. But for now, it remains as one of the most fulfilling journey we’ve had thus far.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - A Tale Of Two Cities

2009-06-21T00:12:00.009+08:00

It's Day 12 and we just landed in Taiwan. Just 6 hours ago, we were in Manila. I guess this would be a timely entry since we transcended 2 cities in a single day. And to be blunt, the transition was as stark as a journey from hell to heaven.

We took a Florida bus from Banaue and pulled into the capital 10 hours later. We were in the mountains for 7 days so we must have gotten used to the cold, right? Well, not when you're on board Florida - apparently they only believe in switching the air-con off or at full blast, nothing in between. I froze, for the first time in a long time, the previous one on the way to Deqin in the Himalayas. The bus aside, the capital was really err... a huge mess with capital M E S S - exhaust-stained buildings, a gazillion vagabonds, rubbish, broken sewer, flowing gunk they call rivers, and F***ed-up attitude. Oh and I figured you'd probably be healthier if you smoke cos inhaling the putrid concoction of fumes they call air would cut back your life span by at least 10 years, and that's if you're on the lawns of Rizal Park. Ok, we only did 8 hours of Manila today and our perceptions may be skewed but hey, first impression counts! And let me tell you about their new Terminal 3. We were there to catch our Cebu Pacific flight to Taipei and desperately needed to draw cash from an ATM to pay for airport taxes. There were none that accepted international cards. I had to travel a good 40min out to the nearest barangay (being Baclaran) and back in sweltering Pinoy sun just to get P2500. Thank god we were at the airport early.

The flight departed on time but we were in deep turbulence for much of the journey as the plane traversed the height of a typhoon over the East China Sea. We arrived safely and unlike Manila, Taipei is much much much better. We've only been here for 4 hours and we loved it to bits already. I mean, what's there not to like? Good transportation network, good-looking people, well-dressed youngsters, well-lined streets, handsome buildings, and brilliant amenities. It sort of reminded us of the glory of Kunming, only on a much larger scale. We can't wait to explore the city tomorrow, starting with local breakfast and then some trekking at Yangmingshan Nature Park.

Well, lucky for us, Iim finally ready to upload some photos of our Luzon Loop so far (the past 11 days) so here's a sneak peek! The rest will be uploaded on Facebook when I get back, or when I have the mood and time here:

A stretch of North Luzon near Vigan

Vigan's Mestizo District

Metropolitan Baguio

Hanging coffins at Echo Valley, Sagada

Native Kankanays at Demang, Sagada

Gorgeous Bomod-ok Falls, Sagada

Room view of the Alimit River rapids of Banaue

The 'Amphitheatre' - Batad

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Ifugao Intrigue

2009-06-19T12:17:00.002+08:00

This may well be the place where Wet Wet Wet got their name. Ok, that was lame. Super. But I'm serious. Like dead serious. It's our 4thy day here in Banaue, the much-hyped-about gateway to the UNESCO-listed rice terraces of the Ifugaos. But truth is, it had been raining for the past 3 days here save for today - which by the way boasts brilliant sunlight - and you get that general feeling that you're drowning. We stayed at the People's Lodge and I love it here, especially Halmoonim!

It's nice for a change to hear the roar of rapids some 50m down the ravine everytime you wake up, coupled with the ubiquitous crow of roosters and that very irritating black dog just a floor below. Despite the gloomy forecast, we finally did that Batad trek yesterday, yes after 2 days of being cooped up in the room - can't be help, Aly was feeling under the weather and you know just how adorable sick people get, haha! Anyway, it started with perfect weather, which was around 9am, and by 10am we were already trodding that 2km up the 'saddle' to get to Batad. For the uninitiated, Batad is undoubtedly the world's best place to view traditional Ifugao rice terraces which was built some 2000 years ago. They call it the 'Amphitheatre' and an amphitheatre it was! The whole 1h40min treak to Batad was well worth it though we were cursing each other under our breaths (or rather, in between CATCHING our breaths) on the return leg. It was to me every bit worth the walk but I reckon we're both sick to our guts at the sight of anymore of these lush green steps for we have seen enough to last a lifetime - after Batad, that is.

Oh and did I mention the road? Well, LP got it right when they say that Banaue, together with Batad, offers that charming aura of isolation for its remoteness and that's pretty much reflected in the road conditions. That 2 hour jeepney ride (which I assume doubles as a 4X4) traversed some of the worst road conditions known to mankind - pebble strewn, cracked, partially paved, landslide debris, and ultimately nerve-wrecking blind corners with instant-death drop-offs. But we've got some interesting experiences on the road as well. Just yesterday, on our way back from Batad on a tricycle (which charges P600 return trip from Banaue to Batad Junction) the tire burst and we had to stop in the middle of nowhere to get it fixed. The driver did all that in the rain, at the risk of a sudden mass movement sweeping us off into the valley.

For what it's woth, I believe our stint in Banaue and Batad was rather rewarding and relaxing. The room here (P500 for a double) met our expectations. There's even a laundry service (P50/kg) in town which Aly is particularly thankful for, and decent food just next door at Greenview. Though, just a note, if you're adamant on doing your own washing like I did, be prepared to have your clothes dried only after 2 days cos quite honestly, that's how long we haven't seen the sun, or maybe more for the locals here considering it was raining when we got here 4 days back.

Well, we're off to Manila tonight at 8pm. Got the tickets form the Florida Bus Company (P450 each) and we should hit the big mother-effing city by 6am tomorrow. though we can't wait to pamper ourselves in urbane trappings, I have this overwhelming feeling that I'll miss the Cordilleras, especially the warm and sunny smiles of the people which never fails to ofset the gloomy overcast.

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - The Mountain Province

2009-06-17T07:25:00.002+08:00

It's Day 08 on our calendar and quite honestly, it only felt like we arrived 2/3 days back unless of course you've been an ardent follower and noticed the time lag between this post and the last. To be exact, we're now in Banaue, the 4th stopover on our North Luzon assault. We were in Sagada the previous 3 nights and Baguio the night before that.

Vigan was pretty nondescript save the Mestizo District. Even then, you know that being on the World Heritage list in the Philippines somewhat means artificial reproduction for tourist consumption. We made an exit for Baguio after 2 nights. This undisputed king of the highlands has the trappings of any big city but still clings on to a small-world feel. It was a rude awakening considering how quiet the streets of Vigan were! We enjoyed its busy streets and crowded sidewalks and lo and behold, there was even a very visible Muslim community in town! We finally had our first Halal meal by a Mindanao-born lady at a local hawker centre. Unfortunately, we could only afford a night there, which was nicely capped off with doughnuts and hot chocolate (and what must have been Aly's 13th cigarette stick) by Burnham Park in the middle of town (and some serious people-watching!).

The reason why I'm only writing this now (believe me, 5 days of backlog isn't fun) is because internet is quite the luxury up here in the Cordillera. Bad news for tech-dependents but it adds up to the charm of these verdant valleys - it exudes a sort of aura of isolation - and I'm loving it.

Sagada was every bit what I imagined it to be, and more. Ok, maybe the architecture isn't quite authentic (how traditional can zinc houses get?) but there are a few that took pains to emulate European brickhouses and log cabins complete with chimneys and planted window sills. However, it was still the kind of place where you could lose yourself for an entire weekend (quite literally)! The stay at Sagada Guesthouse was rewarding - basic and clean yet roomy and bright. It was a total transformation from our worst night so far at Baguio's Silvertone.

Even better were the outdoors! Nestled at a height of 1577m in Luzon's Mountain Province, the pine forest radiates an other-worldly charm to complement the extremely cool mountain air. With an abundance of treks available around town, we just couldn't wait to try one. And try we did! Our 2nd day in Sagada saw us descending the steep and slippery sheer limestone surfaces into Echo Valley, home to some of the area's hanging coffins. The ever-gungho Aly had to literally drag me down the cliffs, given that I thought the trek would be somewhat a walk in a park. I was on all four most of the time, picking through the thick undergrowth. A fresh landslide, river-crossings and 2 hours later, we completed the trail. It was rewarding actually, and definitely the sort of thing Aly was looking forward to.

Our last day in Sagada saw us trekking the road out to Bangaan, 4km away from town, to try our luck at the Bomod-ok Falls. We had initially planned to visit more coffins at the Lumiang Caves but after 2 recommendations by Lucia (a Slovakian) and Katie (a British), we couldn't resist. However, we started the day first with a short walk to Demang to witness a 'begnas', a traditional Applai ritual to honour the gods at the end of the harvest season. We were lucky indeed as the rituals only take place 3/4 times a year! Definitely at the right place at the right time. By 11.30am, we were on the road again with Lynie and James (Filipinos we met during pevious night's dinner). The steady incline and great companion (coupled with some moderate drizzle) made for an enjoyable walk. More demanding was the descent, and ascent, to/from Bangaan. The stairs were moss-covered and I was barefooted at some points, not willing to risk a fatal slip into the ravine. However, the falls was every bit worth the effort! It must have been a 60-70m drop from sheer limestone cliffs and the force literally blew us away! It must have been some typhoon-force gusts at the plunge pool and according to Aly, the pool was indeed deep. Given the chance, I'd walk back to Bomod-ok.

Considering that the food here left us with much to desire, we enjoyed our meals at the Yoghurt House in town. Aptly named, I believe, since the yoghurt concoctions (try the Banana Yoghurt Pancake) was sublime! Notable establishments include the Masferre (great pancakes as well) and Log Cabin (great ambience). Not to forget, the Yoghurt House makes a great place to meet and greet other travellers!

Well, as mentioned earlier, we're now in Banaue. Despite the dull (aka wet) weather, I'm actually looking forward to a walk around the vicinity. We had a room with excellent views here at People's Lodge. We spent the entire day in our room since our took a similar dip like the weather but I'm feeling much better now. Hopefully Aly is well enough to do a quick one in the afternoon because I'm dying to get my hands on those lovely green rice fields!

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Day 01: VIGAN

2009-06-10T18:10:00.002+08:00

Just checked in to Grandpa's Inn right smack in the town's UNESCO-listed Mestizo District (P896/night). Lovely lovely weather. The plane ride here wasn't as tranquil though thanks to the turbulence. Reached Angeles circa 0500h and it was already brilliantly bright. Took a 10-hr bus ride (P437) north to Vigan, where we are right now. For most parts, you'll feel like you're on the NS Highway through Kedah until the road swerves and runs parallel to the coast. Dare I say the rocky coast and turqoise waters are reminiscent of the Irish seaboard. It hasn't rained yet, thankfully, but we hope it does later tonight. We can't wait to eplore the city later as well as the whole of tomorrow. Still reeling from the road punishment but our spirits are still high! Watch this space! MABUHAY!

Traipsing Taipinoy 09 - Leg 1 Itinerary

2009-06-05T23:41:00.002+08:00

Well finally had the entire day to sit down and streamline the itinerary for Leg 1 (Luzon Loop), a timely development considering I'd be booked the whole of this weekend and therefore time is of the essence here. Anyway, here it is and enjoy:

10 Jun 09:
Reach CLARK 0450h
Leave CLARK for VIGAN around 0800h (Bus: P550, 10h)
Reach VIGAN by 2000h (Acc: P350/pax)

11 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy VIGAN (Acc: P350/pax)

12 Jun 09:
Leave VIGAN for BAGUIO around 1000h (Bus: P260, 5h)
Reach BAGUIO by 1600h (Acc: P400/pax)

13 Jun 09:
Leave BAGUIO for SAGADA around 0900h (Bus: P220, 7h)
Reach SAGADA by 1800h (Acc: P250/pax)

14 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy SAGADA (Acc: P250/pax)

15 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy SAGADA (Acc: P250/pax)

16 Jun 09:
Leave SAGADA for BANAUE around 1000h (Jeepney to BONTOC: P30, 1h + Jeepney to BANAUE: P120, 2h)
Reach BANAUE by 1500h (Acc: P350/pax)

17 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy BANAUE (Acc: P350/pax)

18 Jun 09:
Free-and-Easy BANAUE (Acc: P350/pax)

19 Jun 09:
Leave BANAUE for MANILA around 1700h (Bus: P462, 9h - overnight journey)

20 Jun 09:
Reach MANILA by 0500h (perhaps plan for half-day rent till 0800h-1600h)
Leave MANILA for TAIPEI around 1900h

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TOTAL TRANSPORT COST: P1642 (~P2000)
TOTAL LODGING COST: P2900 (~3000)
TOTAL ESSENTIAL COST: P4542 (~5000)

AVERAGE MEAL EXPENDITURE: P200 X 10 DAYS = P2000

Traipsing Taipinoy

2009-06-03T01:23:00.004+08:00

It's a week before we finally greet 'Mabuhay' to the pinoy archipelago and a brief side-trip to Taiwan. Development on the ground situation have been sketchy (what with the H1N1 virus and the typhoon season) but it hadn't dampened our spirits yet. Not one bit, at least for me.

So far, we grabbed a bargain on airfare:

1. Sg-Manila (SGD55)
2. Manila-Taipei-Manila (SGD80)
3. Manila-Caticlan (SGD33)
4. Cebu-Sg (SGD50)

Also not forgetting the travel insurance coverage under NTUC Income (SGD62).

Well, this I hope is going to get exciting so watch this space!

5 months on...

2009-06-03T01:06:00.002+08:00

It was an incredibly short trip, just 13 days to take in the best of both India and Nepal. To be honest, the bulk of the journey was spent on board buses and trains, but the people whom we met in transit made what could potentially be an arduous trip a blessing in disguise. As you can see, this post is long overdue and thus serves the purpose of giving IN-spired a respectable closure it deserves. Also, with the upcoming Traipsing Taipinoy (Philippines-Taiwan 10 June-08 July), this entry may seem like a pressing obligation to put a close to this chapter but I assure you that its content is not written in haste.

What happened on our return journey from Pokhara, Nepal, to Delhi remained as one of the most memorable. Not because it was pristine, rather, it was the lack of that made it all the more unforgettable. To those whom I've met to share the story, this is an abridged version of it. To put it briefly, we were robbed. At the border. In transit, 2 bewildered Singaporeans in a foreign land. Those hostile moments, surrounded by rifle-slinging locals who threatened to throw us off the bus as they extorted every cent of cash we had on us, was a rude yet refreshing awakening to our otherwise stellar backpacking record. We gathered many learning points and thanks to God we made it out of the ordeal safe.

Chennai was another surprise, this time at the other end of the spectrum. We spent a brief moment in this quaint city in what seemed like a good excuse for a beach tourist trap but our journey here was enhanced by the presence of a local architect who, in all his graciousness, invited us for dinner at his home. We jumped at that offer and never regretted a second of it. It was the pinnacle Indian hospitality and the perfect curtain call for our time in the subcontinent.

If there's one thing that came out of this trip, it would be the lure and charm of India and Nepal combined. 13 days were too short to take in anything at all. Truly, I am IN-spired to return.

I.N.spired - Road To Ridges

2009-01-14T19:16:00.002+08:00

07/01/09:

It was freezing cold that morning and we left early for a trek along the Naudanda - Kaskikot - Sarangkot ridge. For the uninitiated, Pokhara is famed for it's unparalleled views of the Annapurnas and the ridge is the best place to catch this stunning display of orogenic proportions. By 6am, we were already at the starting point of a hamlet in Naudanda, approximately 10km west of Sarangkot. We squeezed in a short chai break with Mann, our guide, before embarking on our journey. Mann is knowledgeable and charming at the same time, guarateed to keep you entertained with his colourful insights about Nepal and the world. Just as we made the ascend to the top of the ridge, the sunkissed tips of Machhapuchhare and Annapurna came into view. As the morning unfolded, we were more than awestruck by the beauty of range.

The trail wasn't anywhere as difficult as I had thought it would be but walking under intense sunlight can be torturous. By 10am, we arrived at Kaskikot, the midpoint of our trek. We had the long camwhoring session to blame for the delay. Kaskikot is a charming village perched on the same ridge as Sarangkot an boasts similar views of the Annapurnas. It didn't take us too long to resume the trek as we were famished and badly needed food. 1.5 hours, and many many photographic opportunities, later, we made our entry into Sarangkot. By then, the Annapurnas were already shrouded in clouds, thanks to the midday heat. We quickly retired to a restaurant where we had heavy breakfast. Here, the view of sprawling Pokhara and Phewa Taal were breathtaking.

We left Sarangkot at 1pm, only to reach Pokhara around 3pm. Fatigued, we decided to retire to our rooms for a rest before going out for dinner. Mann had offered to take us somewhere where we could have fish and, having not eaten meat for quite sometime, we jumped at that offer. Green Lodge, strategically located on some sort of a headland by the Taal serves up good fish curry with rice, something I didn't expect of Nepal given the extremely mild taste of food here. The gravy was spicy and the rice somewhat sticky, just the way I like it. Good food, good walk, and tomorrow is about to get better... at least for one of us.

I.N.spired - A City of Thrills and Spills

2009-01-08T11:36:00.002+08:00

06/01/09:

We made it to Pokhara by 3.30pm, after a 12-hour bus ride from Varanasi to Sunauli, a night’s stay at Belahiya, and a 10-hour bus ride to Pokhara. We’re here later than what we had intended for, but no less thrilled that we’ve finally touched Nepali soil. Along the way, we made a new Japanese friend, Ryu Takahashi, who had been traveling alone for the past 2 months across the Central Asian deserts, looping at the Middle East and now on his return leg to Japan via South Asia. He is a shy guy, but given time, we reckon he would make a great companion. This leg of our journey was pretty much nondescript, save for the fact that for the first time, we’re dead broke. Sure, we have our ATM cards and spare Singapore dollars, but with limited financial services between Belahiya and Pokhara, our credits were rendered useless. But the views were priceless. I must say that it was nothing unusual as I had seen the same on my last trip through Yunnan’s wilderness but to witness terraces upon terraces of green hill rice fields unfold between remote valleys of the Mahabharat Range of Nepal’s central Terai region was breathtaking and refreshing. What was more striking was the warmth of the Nepalese, and their very good looks. I, for sure, had an eyeful.

Anyway, Pokhara is a true-blue backpackers’ haven with a charming small-town disposition and a lively chill-out atmosphere. Most travelers use Pokhara as a base for treks around the valley, including the chance to get upclose and personal with the revered Annapurna and Machhapuchhare. We’ve signed up for a couple of treks ourselves, costing us USD85 each, including the fully paid return trip to Delhi come Friday morning. What was most thrilling is Faruq’s paragliding trip from Sarangkot scheduled for Thursday morning. I would have jumped at that chance myself if finances permit but alas, I guess I would have to save that for my return trip in future.

Dinner at the Busy Bee Café was unexpectedly good. We had a pizza and a cup of milk tea each for SGD8, on top of the awesome a live band spinning evergreen tunes from yesteryears. It was a good way to close the day after the backbreaking bus rides from India.

I know this is late but this picture was taken during our New year's party at Saii Palace in Agra. Miss them lots...

I.N.spired - Spiritual Road

2009-01-08T11:16:00.003+08:00

04/01/09 - 05/01/09:

The only thing more difficult than trekking up a mountain or enduring long cold bus rides to obscure mountain villages was getting to Varanasi.

The train pulled into Varanasi Junction in the dead of the night, in thick fog that would challenge even the most experienced of drivers. The 4 of us, including Hugo and Marilyna, cramped into an autorickshaw for 80Rs and headed straight for Shanti guesthouse as recommended by Lonely Planet, but not without hassling from our driver who was adamant on checking us in to his. We insisted on the river side lodging and navigating the streets of old Goudalia in perpetual darkness was no joke – the streets were simply too narrow for any forms of vehicle except for the occasional motorbikes or bicycles. Unfortunately, Shanti was full for the night, or so our driver said. Suspecting the driver had turned the owner against us, we insisted again on Ganga Yogi Lodge, there are sure to be vacancies in this one since it was recommended to us by Saii Palace back in Agra. As expected, a round of arguments broke out based on 2 accounts, the owner of Ganga Yogi let us in and our driver demanded for more than the agreed price. Interested in getting a good rest after endless hours in the train, we gave the driver a piece of our mind and retired to our rooms promptly. We put up a stern fight and were rewarded with a good sleep thereafter.

As it was our only day in Varanasi, we were determined to take in as much of this Hindu mecca as possible. We started off late, at 11.30am, but it was just perfect as the fog would have lifted. The maze of back alleys to the river front threw us off at first. Many wron turns later, we made it to Apsara Restaurant for a good lunch before taking in the sights of the very photogenic ghats. If you had thought Agra was bad, the poverty and spirituality of Hinduism’s most sacred site was even more humbling. Throngs of pilgrims descended upon this city to seek enlightenment and cleanse their sins in Ganga’s heavily polluted waters, and for some, to await death. Manikarnika Ghat was the site of this gruesome scene where dead bodies were partially submerged in the Ganges and then later carried off for burning in stacks of firewood, all in full view of everyone present. It was too much to take at first but once you’ve ingested what was going on, you’d probably be able to understand that it was part and parcel of Varanasi’s daily life.

The better part of the day was spent just strolling from one ghat to another. We capped the long walk with a boat ride back to Dasaswamedh Ghat at sunset, the city’s main spiritual stage. It was here that we got ourselves an open-air massage just before embarking on our tour. Before heading for dinner just opposite the Apsara, we caught the brilliantly-staged puja by the river, a national day parade of sorts, complete with loudspeakers, live telecast and a good crowd of devotees and curious onlookers, mostly foreigners.

It was too short a stay at Varanasi – we reckoned that there would so much more to see and do – but alas, the lure of Nepal was too great and to stay any longer would have meant that we would not make the border in time as it would take 2 whole days of traveling to get to Pokhara including a night’s stay at Belahiya. We left India with a heavy heart and were deeply thankful for Varanasi as it captured India in the best and worst lights. It would be a matter of time before I plan for a return here.

I.N.spired - Agony

2009-01-07T20:55:00.000+08:00

03/01/09:

It was 5am when an announcement was made that our train had finally arrived. By then, the damage was done. For 2 hours, Faruq and I huddled on a bench on the platform, struggling to catch some much-needed rest. Unfortunately, the cold was unforgiving. It wasn’t until 3am that we managed to find shelter in awaiting room which was partially vacated when an earlier train arrived. So there we were, trudging our heavy load and feet to the platform to board the Marudhar Express in the dead of the morning, somewhat glad that Varanasi was within reach. But that hope should have came with a warning sign.

The thick fog made it almost impossible for the train to go ahead at full steam. It took the train 11 hours to reach Lucknow, the midway point between Agra and Varanasi. To make things worst, due to the gross delay, the train was cancelled for the night and we had to transfer to another carriage to make the rest of the trip. The confusion landed us in a seating cabin, together with Hugo and Marilyna, a French couple whom we met on board the Marudhar. Fatigued and shivering from the cold, we had to endure backaches and claustrophobia as the train chugged along for the rest of the journey. We finally disembarked at our destination at 2am the next morning.

To be fair, the bleakest hours after leaving Agra were occasionally sprinkled with moments of posterity. While onboard the Marudhar, I managed to catch some good rest in the sleeper cabin. What wasn’t as pleasant was my encounter with a guard who caught me smoking between carriages. In my defense, I had no idea that smoking was not allowed as 1. I did not see any no-smoking sign and 2. other foreigners did the same as well. It was a case of bad karma as I was smoking alone then. The guard threatened to slap me with a heavy fine or throw me into jail! Naturally, I was badly shaken, confronted by a rifle-slung burly Hindustani who spoke not a single word of English. I pleaded for leniency and innocence. To this, he tried to show me no-smoking signs pasted generously on the cabin walls, which could potentially ruin my argument, but luck was on my side as all the posters were badly defaced and he had to take me to no less than 3 carriages away before we came across a decent sign. By then, he figured that he would probably be at the loosing end and so referred me to a colleague who spoke some English. He explained that smoking on board carried a heavy penalty but after explaining my situation, he relented and I escaped scot-free. That was definitely a close call.

What was a God-bless was the dirt cheap street-side food. We were forewarned not to consume any anywhere in India but after at least 4 vegetable samosas and 3 cups of chai from traveling vendors, we wish to debunk that caution – yes you may enjoy local treats, but only with a serious doze of gungho and a generous sprinkle of humour.

I.N.spired - The Last Stronghold

2009-01-07T20:48:00.002+08:00

02/01/09:

It was a lazy start to the day as we were already maxed out by 2 days of early rising. At 10am, we lumbered to Joney’s for a good breakfast. As if my prayers were answered, we ran into Marty who had just finished his meal. It was our last day in Agra and I told Faruq that it would be nice if we could bid proper farewells to the new friends we’ve made on top of exchanging contact numbers.

But we soon discovered that there would be no end to meeting newer ones on this journey. A few steps outside Joney’s, on our way for tea at Shanti Lodge, we were approached by 2 foreign-born Indians, Rahul and Nidya. It was a Friday and the Taj was closed for the day so the pair had asked if we knew of a good vantage point to view the marble wonder. We figured that we could use some new company as well so the 4 of us settled on the rooftop of Shanti Lodge, sipping chai as we admire Taj from a distance and exchanged life stories.

The pair made a quick exit to embark on a city tour while we lazed around for another good hour before signing up for the day trip to Fatehpur Sikri. Just an hour’s drive away, Fatehpur Sikri is a magnificent conglomerate of palaces and mosques perched high on a hilltop fort. The first of its buildings to greet us was the Jama’ Masjid – entrance is free but visitors are not allowed to wear shoes in. The mosque alone was enough reason for you to visit Fatehpur Sikri without having to pay for the other palaces which, honestly, would look the same once you’ve visited a fort too many.

As I placed my right foot onto its red sandstone floor, the first wave of touts came rushing in, all were young boys throwing themselves at us for a small fee – all except for one. He claimed to take us around for free as he sees it as an obligation given he is a student at the Masjid’s madrasah. But nothing in this world is free, my friend. We gave in after a few rounds of debate to shake him off but he won’t budge. If truth be told, he would have made himself a cool sum if he had just stick to tour-guiding – his ‘earnest’ and persistent disposition would have earned in some tips at day’s end. But, to coax us to purchase come marble paraphernalia at the end threatened to worsen an already sour beginning. Of course, letting that get to my head would render victory to the touts.

We enjoyed another half hour at the Jama’ Masjid, this time on our own, before walking to Sikri to have a quick look. Along the way, a young boy peddling postcards came up and blurted:

“Are you Hindi?”

I must say that I expected myself to be mistaken as an Indian but to have a kid spewing such blatant honesty suddenly seemed foul to me. They just say the darndest thing, don’t they? By then, Faruq was a heap of laughter as I went on nagging about the boy. By the time the next boy came along, I was quick to identify that I was a Rajasthani from Udaipur.

That night, we got ready to leave for Varanasi via train which was scheduled at 9pm. While waiting for our departure, we managed a half hour tea at the rooftop. It was then that we met Kelly, alone traveler from Guangzhou. She was animated, which made for an interesting brief meet-up. When we finally got to the train station a little pass 9pm, we learnt that the train was delayed for 4 hours. Unwilling to bump around in the station’s squalid conditions, we headed back to Taj Ganj to use the internet. We ran into Marty and Kelly for the last time in Agra and by 12.30am, we were ready to return to the station, this time in thick fog which had developed over the city in split seconds.

The agony unfolds…

I.N.spired - Legacy of the Shah's

2009-01-07T20:40:00.003+08:00

01/01/09:

We woke up very early that morning with high hopes to catch the marble mausoleum in full daylight glory at 7am. After battling the morning’s cold, we realized we should have paid heed to our guesthouse owner’s warning – there’s no use getting up too early as the Taj Mahal would be shrouded in fog as it always does on winter daybreaks. After checking out the interiors, we waited for the fog to lift, which it eventually did 2 hours later. It was then that sunlight revealed why Agra had always lured a steady pilgrimage of tourists. The monument of love unveiled before our very eyes as the white surfaces took in the bright morning light – it was beauty quite unlike what I’ve seen before. As my mind raced to find the right words to describe Taj’s splendour, my finger clicked freely in a vain attempt to capture it’s grandeur for eternity.

We retired to the institutionalised Joney’s Place for breakfast before heading back to the hotel an hour to noon. While the Russians were set to leave for Fatehpur Sikri, we opted for a tour around the city instead as the entrance ticket to the Taj (750Rs) entitled us discounts to Agra’s other attractions – Agra Fort, Sikandra and Baby Taj Mahal. We found Agra Fort particularly impressive, perched on a slight hill on Yamuna’s western bank with sweeping views of the urban sprawl below. It was here where Aurangzeb imprisoned his father, Shah Jahan, in his final days and judging by the clear visual assault of the Taj from his cell, I dare say Shah Jahan had his cards dealt well.

Chini Ka Roza and Baby Taj were uneventful, really, as we’ve seen the two most noteworthy monuments within the city limits but the trip to the dry banks of Yamuna opposite the Taj, affectionately known as the backside Taj, was the climax of the day. Getting across on Agra’s only traffic bridge was an experience of its own. Never have I seen such high concentration of vehicles in such claustrophobic space, not even in Bangkok. By vehicles I mean cars, buses, vans, motorcycles, autorickshaws, bicycles, cycle rickshaws, horse-drawn carriages and bullock carts – primarily anything on wheels that have the capacity to transport. Imagine all these cramped on a two-way street on a two-lane wide bridge.

As the dusk draws an end to yet another day in Agra, the Taj refuses to fade into darkness without pulling a technicolour display of its own. As the heavily polluted air over Agra lent a deep orange tone to the sunset, the white marble of Taj steadily changes from ochre to pink and then purple before heaving a sigh of deep yellow before the eye disappears below the horizon. To put the sequence of events in words would do little justice to the true beauty of Taj Mahal at sunset.

That night, we had dinner with Nasta, Katya and Katya, the 3 Russian ladies, before their departure to Jaipur. It was a simple affair at Joney’s, a pinnacle to 2 great days together. Faruq was only too happy as he got to nurse his crush on Katya whom he affectionately calls Olga-Wong. That night, we turned in early so much so that I only had sketchy recollections bidding them farewell at 11pm the morning after.

I.N.spired - In Taj

2009-01-07T20:24:00.003+08:00

31.12.08:

I just realized that I’m not one for bite-size accounts. My travelogue is best read with a hot cuppa and lots of spare time.

We were paid to board the pre-paid taxi from Indira Gandhi Airport to Sarai Kale Khan Bus Terminal at the heart of New Delhi. What could have burnt 280Rs in our pockets gained us 120Rs through a mistake in accounting on the taxi receptionist’s end.

Delhi is a non-descript administration concrete jungle but we were treated to a generous dosage of men taking a piss on road sides. Sarai Kale Khan was no exception as the stench of urine quickly greeted our olfactory senses. By all means, we were lucky to have arrived on time for the bus to Agra. For 195Rs each and a 6-hour ride which seemed like an eternity, we were ushered into the ancient Mughal capital by dusk.

350Rs for a room at Saii Palace was reasonable enough at the infamous Taj Ganj. Upon checking in, we rushed up to the rooftop terrace and there it was – the pride of Shah Jahan. By then, the sun was fast disappearing below the horizon, which left us with nothing much to do for the day except to await the arrival of the new year.

Having been traveling for the past 24 hours, we quickly made a quick dash for the recommended Joney’s Place, but not before buying marble souvenirs from the ultra-persuasive and equally charming Mr. Mohamed Ahmed Khan. Earning a place in Lonely Planet India is a mean feat for this quaint old-timer. The banana lassi is to-die-for and the simple spicy mains are a definite draw, so much so that Marty, a German whom we asked to have dinner with us as this lone figure wandered into the eatery, had been returning for more in his 10 days in Agra.

We wasted no time after dinner and returned to the lodge for a countdown party. For 300Rs, I must say the spread of Indian staples were impressive but not quite worth the cover charge, especially considering that the owner killed the party on us shortly after midnight. This led to a tiff between Emile, a French who’s currently studying in Singapore, and a staff, which his mum mediated quite professionally. Unbattered, the party of 3 Mexicans, 3 Russians, 2 French and 2 Singaporeans stomped the party at Shanti Lodge and outstayed – let alone outdanced – the lodge’s guests themselves. By 0300h local time, we were ready to head back.

The night could have ended then but the younger lads decided for a chat on the roof deck. It was freezing to say the least but we enjoyed a rather meaningful and humour-riddled exchange under Agra’s twilight. New year, new environment, new company, and a whole new world before our very eyes – one could not have asked for a better night.

I.N.spired - Chennai Touchdown

2009-01-07T20:21:00.000+08:00

30.12.08:

Mum teared as she bade farewell. To her, it’s yet another developing nation on the verge of an arm’s race. 2 weeks proved too long. To me, it’s the beginning of an Indian dream 6 months in the making. Watching her face crumple under the weight of worry made my heart wrench.

Faizal, Layla and Farhani made for a pleasant send-off. After making me worried for half-an-hour at the prospects of running late, they rose to the occasion with a pre-planned drive to Changi. The worries melted instantly.

1945h Singapore time at the Budget Terminal and the group of 7 assembled. Faruq came in arms with his mum and aunt. India never seemed so real. We took off an hour and a half later, touching down on Indian soil for the first time at 2250h local time after a 4-hour flight. First impression counts and Chennai Airport fell short of that. Our baggage came 30 minutes late and watching a local squabble over a mistaken order of chicken sandwich at the Café Coffee Day made for an interesting yet frustrating scene. But much of Chennai was too sleepy to care.

Pacing up and down the main corridor between halls was somewhat excruciating to our backs. It was this deciding moment that led to purchasing a 7940Rs return trip to Delhi. We’re SGD228 poorer each but 72 hours richer. That’s worth at least an entirely new Indian city, or a trek in the great Himalayas.

It’s 0135h local time and we’re on the cold ceramic tiles of the Departure Hall. Not the first night of our dreams but we still hold high hopes for Agra and its Mughal wonder.

I.N.spired - Confirmed Route

2008-12-23T04:33:00.003+08:00

Well finally, this is more or less the confirmed route for I.N.spired 08/09. The trick is to traverse both the Indian subcontinent and Nepalese soil in 2 weeks and granted that transportation is top notch, the journey durations are no joke. But I guess India is all about its trains and by God's grace we could catch colourful snippets of this motherland through their windows.

We're left with booking accommodations in Agra and Varanasi and applying for the Indian visa (SGD59) by Wednesday. Also, Aly may be joining us after all provided he could convince his parents that he'd be absolutely away from harm (Delhi is a no-no). Let's just pray that he'd be able to come along.

Oh, and by some twist of fate, our Singapore-Chennai flight got rescheduled to 2 hours earlier which means we would touch down in Chennai before midnight to hopefully catch an early morning train to Agra pronto!

I.N.spired - Himalayan Breeze

2008-12-15T13:36:00.004+08:00

Finally met up with Faruq for a quick discussion last Saturday. Although we spent more than half the time at Al-Majlis watching the Liverpool and Man United matches, we've decided on a skeleton of what, or rather how, the northern route and the eventual traverse into Nepalese territory should look like:

While the route is pretty much tried and tested, the exact prices and duration of bus journeys aren't. Pieces of information on transport throughout India and Nepal are generally sketchy so we basically rely heavily on Lonely Planet. Nonetheless, it seems incredulous for all bus journeys within Nepal to be 8 hours long.

What proves to be a bigger pain in the arse is designing the fastest route from Chennai to Agra and from Patna back to Chennai. So far, our only options are a 24 hours Delhi-bound train between Chennai and Agra and the more harrowing Patna-Kolkata (10 hours) and Kolkata-Chennai (28 hours) ass-ripper.

A New Adventure - I.N.spired

2008-12-09T10:43:00.004+08:00

India - Nepal 08/09

It's been a long time since this blog was revisited and after dusting all the cobwebs from the cyber corners, I'm ready to inject new blood onto this page all over again. I've always been fascinated by India and Nepal and the opportunity just presented itself. I know, the recent spate of bombings at Mumbai and possible future insurgencies and attacks now expected at all Indian urban magnets should have deterred us from carrying on with our plans. But to stay away from it altogether would have rendered the terrorists victors. Anyway, here's what I.N.spired looks like for us at the moment:

Faruq and I have yet to meet up for a good round of planning. We have between Kashmir and Nepal to choose from and given the subliminal beauty of both regions (the latter being a country for the uninitiated) it's set to be a tough thug.

Where It All Began

2008-06-06T00:50:00.002+08:00

It is such a shame that time hasn’t been on my side of late, especially since it’s the holidays and time should be of the abundance. Nonetheless, it should never be an excuse to not submit an entry altogether.

At a time when time and finance constrict, I would consider myself fortunate to have had the opportunity to rediscover what I’ve grown to miss over the past 2 years – Pulau Perhentian. Its tranquil shores and laidback inhabitants complement the vast blueness of the surrounding seas and sky. It is by far the only place where I’m allowed the luxury to dream away as long as the white sandy beaches that hug its shores. It is one of those few places I feel I could really let go of everything.

But it didn’t start off that way.

Ulat, tahu ulat?

I say fuck you, bitch. The moment we got to Larkin on May 29, we found out we were duped by the ‘worm’ who sold us the ticket to Jerteh earlier in the week – all RM45 of it. It’s no small joke considering I was on a super tight budget. And all the lady could muster was nonchalance, something totally out of line. We forked out another RM60 each just to get on a bas sekolah for the 11-hour turbulence to the east coast. Here’s another fuck you to you, bitch.

The drama continued when we finally got to Kuala Besut. We overlooked the possibility of not getting a bus ticket back to Singapore come Sunday night. As usual, Uncle Murphy had it all figured out. I would have opted to wait out the bus-drought but the girls had to be back as scheduled. So we bade farewell to a further SGD105 for a flight from Kota Bharu to Kuala Lumpur and then a bus back the same night. At least that got us safely back home together.

Did it damper the mood off the entire trip? I’m glad it didn’t, at least for me. Perhentian made up for it.

As pictures paint a thousand words, I’d leave that bit of my narration to the upcoming photo flood.

Hello, Is It Me You're Looking For?

2008-04-29T11:04:00.000+08:00

It’s been 3 months since I last updated this blog, which pretty much sums up the travel drought I’ve been experiencing. I have yet to plan trips for the upcoming 3-month break, with the exception of Perhentian at end May and possible road trips in June.

Anyway, here’s a shoutout to 2 friends who, unlike me, have finally found the luxury of time amidst their busy work schedules. They’re both off to Vietnam this week. So Mansor and Annabelle, have a blast! I’ve documented my most recent trip to Vietnam in this blog so feel free to use it as a point of reference!

Good day to all and may I have many more entries to publish come June!

A New Beginning

2008-02-01T16:29:00.000+08:00

I was contemplating if I should ever ramble about my rather mundane life on this blogsite but have decided that I must preserve the sanctity of this space as solely for my travel accounts.

Nonetheless, those of you who are interested to take a peek into my daily routines, you can catch me at:

http://thepositivist.wordpress.com/

A Break From A Break

2008-01-30T17:32:00.000+08:00

I told Shamil today that Tibet may not happen. There, I said it. As much as my heart pounds for that Himalayan experience, I have obligations to fulfill at home this coming semester break. A close friend is tying the knot and there’s no way in the world I’d miss it. That, of course, on top of the fact I’ve been appointed the interior decorator.

But 3 months is too long a time to forsake the opportunity to travel altogether. Faizal is planning a trip to Boracay with Layla and Farhani. Perhaps 2 weeks in the Philippines is not such a bad idea after all! It would probably take place in the first half of June, but it would mean that Mansor could not possibly join.

I don’t know, it’s too early to decide I guess. But I’ve made my choice; it’s only fair that Faiz and Mariana get to set the date for their own wedding celebrations and not having to cater to my overseas trip.

Perhaps a break from a long break is good, especially when you have strong reasons to take this break.

The Road Ahead - In Between Books

2008-01-17T14:02:00.000+08:00

That’s sheer exaggeration, a hyperbole of sorts. The semester just started 4 days back and I haven’t quite adjusted my lifestyle to embrace yet another school term. Plus, the only books I’ve been reading so far are the various Lonely Planet installations…

I’ve been back for 2 weeks and already I feel like a different person; Matt, you look tanned! Wow, you have fairer skin! Oh, did you gain weight? You look beefed-up! Gosh, I like the slimmer you! Since when do you use chopsticks?

Truth is, I did lose some weight when we were in China but I’ve since gained all back merely 2 days upon my return. I did get sunburn when we were at higher altitudes hence that should explain my darker complexion. And, for the record, I’ve always used chopsticks when I dig into my bowl of noodles, save for the home. Bottom line is you’ve not seen me in a while so everything tends to look different…

Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about my next trip. This time, I intend to spend 6 weeks overseas if my finances allow. I know it’s still a good 6 months before the next term break but already I’m spoilt for choice. Here I am poring through one LP after another when I should be doing some revision. I know, travel can wait… but my youth can’t!

It’s been 2 weeks since I started planning for my next trip (yes, I began the moment I touched down) and so far, here are my top picks:

* * *

1. Trans-Siberia Railway
Gosh, how I can’t resist this temptation! Preliminary calculations brought the cost of an entire trip from St. Petersburg to Beijing via Moscow, Ulaanbaatar and a throng of other Russian cities to SGD466. The thing is, I estimated a full 6 weeks for the journey (including stopovers) and chances are I’d be doing the bulk alone. Faizal will only be available the first 2 weeks of June, Aly’s on internship throughout the summer vacation, and Mansor could only get off the later 2 weeks of June.

2. Bhutan
I watched a documentary of an ascent to the Everest and was smitten once again by Shangri-La. Honestly, I don’t know if I ever could get enough of snow peaks. Problem is, my Sikkim-Nepal-India trip this year-end is pretty much concrete and Bhutan is well on the way. Going there this June seems like a waste.

3. Tibet
Again, arising from my seemingly-unparalleled newfound affinity with xue shans, Tibet sounds like a good choice. But, going into Tibet would incur SGD400/pax and we would have to fly direct from Zhongdian or Kunming to Lhasa. A land route is available via Chengdu but that would mean that our acclimatization efforts would have gone to waste in addition of 5 traveling days.

4. Burma
A weird choice at first thought but just how many people can honestly say that they have backpacked Burma? The idea remains a novelty save for the uncertain socio-political climate, especially in the days after the Saffron Revolution. Aly added that I might as well throw in a doze of Bangladesh due to its close proximity to Burma. Well, I just might!

5. Philippines
One of the 3 ASEAN countries that I’ve yet to visit (Burma and Timor-Leste being the accompanying two) and sure, traditional Filipino lives can be as diverse as its thousands of islands. But, at the moment, I’m not too keen on a touristy beach holiday, unless of course I could squeeze in a hop to the Samoas.

* * *

So you see, I can be very fickle at times and there’s no better time to witness that than now. Aly and Faizal, I know I’ve been raving about Trans-Siberia the past week but I’ve decided that, ceteris paribus, I’ll save that trip for you guys. As for the rest of you, come, help me choose!

en-VY 07 - Moving On

2008-01-10T18:02:00.000+08:00

Day 7 and I still feel a great sense of loneliness and forlorn for what we went through the past month. To be completely honest, I returned to Singapore with an overbearing void inside of me and I can’t help but to feel rather disoriented. Having used to wake up every morning looking forward to explore every inch of an unfamiliar place for a month, I now have to accustom myself to look forward to school term yet again next week. What amazed me most is that it took only a month to have my heart harvested completely somewhere else.

It was yesterday that I met up with Aly for the first time after the trip and I must say I was filled with relief – relieved because he is a reminder of a trip that I miss dearly. I’m not saying that I don’t miss everyone in Singapore when I was away, it’s just that I dread having to up the tempo again and slipping myself under the blanket of reality.

I guess what made en-VY 07 far more memorable is the fact that we made so many new friends along the way. By comparison, we didn’t have as much encounter with foreigners on Borneo Beckons and Intriguing Indochina was too short a trip to foster any real relationships with the people we met – this is, of course, on top of the fact that pretty much kept to ourselves. I have to agree with Aly that this is the first time we let go of ourselves and the result is pretty obvious. We learnt so much more about ourselves and about other people and it is these experiences that made the trip all the more enriching.

At the moment, I find myself attempting to relive every second of en-VY 07 through the myriad of photographs captured during the trip. Also, I was very fortunate to have heard from Richard who wrote in from Saigon. I pray for his speedy recovery since he is not in the best of health. Judging by his tone, I could tell that in some ways he, too, is dreading the flight back home.

If it is any consolation, I am reading up some materials for our next trip. Right now, the Trans-Siberian Railway looks like a major possibility. As I discussed with Faizal shortly after my return, Africa would have to wait because of tremendous logistical issues. This may very well mark the dawn of yet another adventure…

en-VY 07 - Pictoral Tribute

2008-01-07T17:21:00.001+08:00

I finally had some time this morning to recuperate after the trip and all those 'catch-up' sessions and what better way to 'celebrate' sometime on my own then to return to what I like most about my post-vacation period - editing the thousands of photos! As usual, I've carefully selected the better photos and compiled them into several collages. Enjoy!

Shangri-La Discovered:

Deqin has got to be our favourite place throughout the trip. The scenery was simply breathtaking. It is no wonder that, given such a perfect setting, the realm of the Gods and us mortal beings could co-exist with much grace.

Rise of the Dragon:
Halong Bay ranks as our top destination in all of Vietnam simply for its natural splendour.

Sapa Seduction:
Sapa charms with its harmonious ethnic mix and amazing mountain vistas.

Romancing A Bygone Era:
A walk inthe old town leaves you enchanted by what life must have been like centuries ago.

Reliving the Past:

Hoi An is truly a photographer's paradise, from it's tastely ageing architecture to its friendly inhabitants.

en-VY 07 - A Dedication

2008-01-07T17:14:00.000+08:00

It’s been 4 days since we touched home soil and, to be completely honest, we miss the trip already. I spent the entire weekend catching up with Mas, Faizal and Layla, and the BPians (note that I’ve yet to meet the FSC with the exception of Rahim) and I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed by a sheer sense of emptiness. I am totally aware that a month is too short a time to be fully immersed in a foreign culture but what can I say, I guess I’ve been too efficient bearing myself to the elements of my travels, huh?

One heck of a trip and, 4 days since I’ve stepped back to reality, I hope it’s not too late to give a thought to those who’ve made en-VY 07 possible in its entirety. I’ve got a lot to thank for especially…

… my family who, without their consent and blessing, would render en-VY 07 a failure right from the start. My dear Mas too who, with much reluctance, have learnt to adapt quite well to my month-of-absence.

… Aly, my travel buddy. It’s been 3 whole backpacking trips and I hope we’ve found that strength to keep this flame alive for many more years to come. I know I can be quite a pain in the arse and I admire your patience and diplomacy in dealing with my nonsense.

… Faizal, my Upin. Though you weren’t able to join us on this trip, we greatly valued your travel advice and looked forward to your updates, especially during the Vietnam leg. I am, for sure, looking forward to Africa, Trans-Siberia, Silk Road, Himalayas, and Europe with you!

… Fabius and Hazirah. It was a great pleasure having to share parts of en-VY 07 with you guys. You provided us with additional perspectives to the trip and you know you’re always welcomed on board!

… all those we met on the trip! Juan, the lone Chilean backpacker, who bunked in with us in Hanoi. It was a short 3 days together and we enjoyed his company and stories from far-flung lands. Richard and Janet, the Australian couple we met while sailing across Halong Bay. We are honoured to have met them on the cruise and we are humbled by their wealth of knowledge and openness. We thank them for welcoming us into their homes and we look forward to visiting them in Brisbane. Jiang Jun (Aly, don’t laugh!), the lone Funanese traveler we met in Deqin. It wasn’t the best of time for me but thanks nonetheless for putting up with us. And not forgetting Roger and Sharon (Canadian couple), Miraelle and Elsa (Dutch duo), Akiro (Japanese traveler), and fellow traveling Singaporeans who added some colours to our journey…

en-VY 07 - The Final Seal

2008-01-02T22:21:00.000+08:00

I would first like to apologise for the rather 'slip-shot' last entry but once you've had your fingertips insensate in near-freezing temperature you'd understand my predicament. As previously mentioned, we left China with mixed feelings - humbled, satisfied, relieved, and forlorn all at once. Having travelled in long-distance buses throughout Yunnan, framed by gorgeous and awe-inspiring backdrop, left us humbled by God's mighty creation. We couldn't, in a hundred years, have imagined that such beauty would unfold before our eyes. Satisfied by the opportunity to witness these unparalleled creations, we were relieved to have left behind the unimaginable lifestyle of it's local inhabitants (am not being rude here but we just couldn't comprehend how one could subject himself to such level of hygiene). Having said all these, we knew, deep down in our hearts, that we would miss every second of this remarkable experience, especially the locals who have touched us with kindness and their ready smiles.

The 27th saw us leaving Kunming for warmer weather in Vietnam. Our first stop, as you may have already know, wasn't quite what we expected. It literally threatened to freeze us to death but having had experience in the unforgiving altitudes of Zhongdian and Deqin we pressed on. But credit has to be given to our visit to Cat Cat Village. It was our only opportunity to experience tribal life upclose and personal. What stuck us most was the warmth that exude from the resident H'mongs as we graced their homes. Our body and mind took another 3 days of bashing before we left Sapa on the evening of 30th for Hanoi via train. Against all odds (ie. advise from hotel owners in Sapa) we secured ourselves hard sleeper tickets for USD12/pax. it was a considerably good deal as the state of the 6-men cabin totally surpassed our expectations. We were indeed more fortunate to have shared the cabin with 2 other Singaporeans who were on their last leg of their 6-day north Vietnam visit.

Hanoi was nothing new to us but the main draw was really Ha Long Bay. It was tough securing a room that morning since it was New Year's Eve so we were a bit apprehensive in getting ourselves a package to Ha Long the day after. Having recalled from an earlier walk about town that a particular agency offered a package for 2D1N for USD26/pax, we returned and jumped on to the bandwagon. Lucky for us they still had vacancies then despite high demands over the New Year. We were to find out that the blessing was to be more than just the reasonable price. That night, we joined throngs of Vietnamese by Hoan Kiem's shore to usher in the new year. Never did we imagine that, despite the crowd, the countdown was to be a major let down as there was no synchrony. It felt more like a private affair where several groups huddled and chanted their own countdown and launched their own dismal 'fireworks'. With the excitement of Ha Long bearing down on us, we made a quick exit to rest for the night.

Like I've said, Ha Long was generous on its blessings. 3 hours out of Hanoi saw us awestruck by the sheer beauty of thousands of limestone peaks thrusting out of the emerald sea. Nong Chia was to be our home for the night and we were very fortunate to have found companions in an Australian couple, Richard and Janet, as well as a shy Japanese lady, Akiro. We hit it off at lunch and we soon found ourselves engaged in a lively conversation on a wide range of topics from religion to personal travel experiences. I couldn't help but felt very humbled by Richard's and Janet's readiness in sharing their tremendous wealth of experience and knowledge with us. That coupled with the sheer beauty of the dragon's descent (especially at dawn and dusk with its crimson-coated sky) made for a great seal to our 1-month odyssey through Vietnam and Yunnan. The apex had to be our quiet time at the deck after dinner, gazing into the sparkling night horizon...

Well, we will be leaving Hanoi early tomorrow morning. I couldn't believe that 1 month passed us by all to quickly. Of course, I could sit down at this internet cafe raving about what we have been through in our journey but we know, and probably you as well, that no amount of words could ever do justice to what we have experienced in the past 27 days...

PS: I haven't got any time to reply to past comments so yes Ezdi please link me up and Naz fret not, the camera is still safe and sound and as for the kickass photos, well I'll let you be the judge ;)

en-VY 07 - Here Come The Photos

2007-12-30T15:32:00.001+08:00

Ok we're finally back in Vietnam and it isn't exactly tropicale here because we've been up in Sapa for the past 3 days. The weather was brilliant on the 1st day but the latter 2 have been extremely foggy. We managed to squeeze in a trek to Cat Cat Village this morning and were glad that abundant photographic opportunities presented themselves.

We left China with mixed feelings, but the main aim of this entry is to finally to put a 'face' to what we have described thus far. So here are some photos (amateurish... I know but we haven't really got access to photoshop)...

The 3 of us en route to Hoi An from Saigon. A true reflection of what our journey was purely about - the long and (extremely) winding road...

Hoi An is a darling, like I've mentioned.

The thing I love about Hoi An is the ubiquitous silk lanterns for USD2 only! I simply couldn't resist...

At the gates of Hue's Imperial Enclosure within the citadel.

The many roadside florists in Hanoi's Old Quarter.

Brothers in Islam - celebrating Aidiladha in Kunming.

The adorable Ma Si Yi.

Deep in thought at Yunnan University.

Down memory lane - still at Yunnan University.

Naxi cat - Lijiang.

Soaking up the atmosphere in old Lijiang.

Lounging in Zhongdian.

Flying high - Feilai Si at our very own Shangri-La - Deqin.

Basking in that 'Himalayas' feeling with Meilixue Shan in the background - Deqin.

Of 'blessings' and charity - monks from the Red Hat Sect.

en-VY 07 - Back From The Highlands (Part 2)

2007-12-26T19:44:00.000+08:00

Flip to any recently-published travel directory and you would notice that Zhongdian would be referred to as Shangri-La, China's own claim to James Hilton's 'Lost Horizon' fame. However, to use Shangri-La in place of Zhongdian, I feel, is unjustified. The image conjured up by this yet-another Han Chinese cookie-cutter remake falls short of the highly-regarded notion of paradise on earth. Instead, it would have been better suited for it's rival, Deqin, nestled in the valleys of the Hengduan range.

The bus ride to Zhongdian was surprisingly a short one (5 hours compared to the previous 10-hour journeys). On the way, we passed by Hu Tiao Xia (Tiger Leaping Gorge) and were tempted to join the group of backpackers who alighted at Qiaotou but our finances, or rather, mine, dictated otherwise. The rest of the journey saw us winding through dry mountain valleys and at least 2 dams, a symbol of China's incessant drive towards modernity.

As mentioned, Zhongdian is uneventful, with the exception of an old Tibetan neighbourhood at the southern end of the town and the massive town square where community dance seemed to be a nightly ritual. The main landmark of the old neighbourhood was a Tibetan temple perched atop a hill. Although it was nothing special, it provided a brief creative respite to an otherwise tourism-barren landscape. And, at the town square, after much cajoling, we braved ourselves to join the herd displaying nifty footwork to traditional Tibetan tunes. That was much fun for Aly finally broke out of his macho disposition.

The night was unbearably bleak in our 25Yuan/person room as there was no heater (nope, not even for running water). Fortunately, Zhongdian was never meant to be a stop for us so purchasing our ticket out to Deqin (43Yuan) was first on our list. The ride started off miserably as I desperately tried to save my toes from freezing (don't ask how). 3 hours later, we were treated to our first sight of snow on our journey thus far. From then on, it was the unfolding of Shangri-La before our very eyes, culminating at the the top of a mountain pass 4210m above sea level. The view was B-R-E-A-T-H-T-A-K-I-N-G. Never did we imagine that the Himalayas would materialise in our lifetime.

Upon reaching Deqin, our true Shangri-La, we met up with a lone Funanese traveller, Jian Jun, who offered to accompany us. We soon found out that he was a mistake of sorts as he blatantly took us to the road to Feilai Si without giving us the chance to deposit our load at the town's guesthouse. While I admit that the Feilai Si visit was the highlight of the trip as we feasted on a full-frontal view of Meilixue Shan, I was seethering under the cold for having been dragged with the full load on our backs. "It's just the Chinese way of doing things," Aly reasoned. The rest was downhill, literally. Jian Jun took us on a taxi ride on the opposite direction and we were almost stranded at the base of Mingyong Glacier if not for a passing vehicle headed back to town. By then, it was nearing sun down and we even witnessed a landslide on the opposite bank of the Lancang Jiang. It was a good thing that we only needed to fork out 20Yuan/person for that night's stay.

That night was a deciding moment of sorts for us. Running low on cash and heavily beaten by the sheer cold of winter, we opted for a ride back to Kunming on yet another sleeper bus (223Yuan/person). This time, we were smarter to have chosen the upper deck instead, but halfway through the trip, my neighbour decided that her stomach could not hold any longer and out came her day's meals. That threatened to upset the rest of the journey but the thought of returning to warmer climate kept us going.

Having survived the gruelling 19-hour ride, we found ourselves at the comfort of Kunming's pleasant weather once again. But our journey on China's famed ancient Tea & Horse Trail remains, in one way or another, firmly etched on our hearts and minds...

en-VY 07 - Back From The Highlands (Part 1)

2007-12-26T18:49:00.000+08:00

I don't know if I should bore all with an extremely long account of the missing 5 days but I'm surely glad we're out of the cold, into the warm embrace of Kunming once again. The past 5 days were eventful to say the least - one of pure doubt, torture, self-discovery, exhilaration, and amazement. Little did we expect that the journey to Zhongdian and Deqin was possible but we pressed on, and when we passed that hurdle, we found ourselves battling our wits with the weather, only to be rewarded by the sheer beauty that formed the essence of the excruciating ride.

The journey began on the 20th at Kunming, the heart of Yunnan Province. We were fortunate to have had the opportunity to celebrate Hari Raya Haji, or 'Gu Er Ban Jia Jie' as it is known here, with the local Muslim community. I wasn't used to the cold then but the thought of observing one of Islam's historical milestone in a foreign land kept us going. Literally, we were lost sheeps in a sea of unfamiliar faces, united by the solidarity of Muslim brotherhood. The rituals were somewhat different from what we are used to back in Singapore but it did not fail to capture the spirit of the festival. To have witnessed Islam thriving in Kunming was enlightening and humbling at the same time. One of the highlights during the 'Gu Er Ban' observation was a local Muslim girl, Ma Si Yi, whom we took a photo of.

That night, we literally dived into the wilderness by purchasing a sleeper bus ticket to Lijiang. A note to all: if you ever plan to travel in China by night, DO NOT even consider the sleeper bus. It is, to say the least, GERMS-ON-WHEELS. You get the ubiquitous spitting, nose-blowing, and if you're very lucky, the occasioanal vomitting, onto the carpeted floor of the bus. It is worst if you get the bottom row of the double-decker 'beds' for it is even remotely possible to configure what you just inhaled. And the silly thing was, we 'locked' ourselves up in the bus for an additional 45 minutes thinking that the bus has yet to reach Lijiang.

Lijiang, despite the blistering cold in the morning, was a darling, especially to budding and amateur photographers alike. There are countless photo opportuinities at every bend of this UNESCO-protected ancient Naxi town. It is easy to get lost in it's cobbled streets and you totally wouldn't mind it a bit but getting lost in its modern counterpart just across the street is a different story. That was what happened when we searched in vain for Lijiang's main bus station to purchase an onward ticket to Zhongdian only to discover that it was recently moved to another part of town. The worst part was even the locals seemed oblivious to such a major relocation.

Despite it's scenic location and photographic blessings, Lijiang was where I faced 2 major hurdles in the trip thus far - a stomach upset and the bitter cold. It could have been the spicy dinner in Kunming or the roadside satays but I won't point any fingers. As for the cold, let's just say that I totally underestimated the weather and it didn't help that the room wasn't equipped with a heater. Physical and environmental challenges aside, Zhongdian awaits.

en-VY 07 - In Touch Again

2007-12-22T20:17:00.000+08:00

Ok, I guess my plan to update this blog on a daily basis may well backfire because 1) there's just soooo many things to write about, and 2) internet is subject to availability and consistency. Thus, I've decided to ramble in a cohesive paragraph about the journey from 18th Dec onwards...

We left very early on the 18th for Lao Cai via train, which was, considering we bought the cheapest ticket, was not too pleasant a ride. However, it was a ride worth every mention because of the colourful people we met on that 10-hour journey. One thing's for sure, the locals, especially those from rural areas, are amiable but somewhat lacking in the mannerism department. None would hesitate taking up any empty space available on the train, even if it's next to you, although they have not paid for the necessary ticket. Apparently, the notion of private space is absent from their vocabulary. Nonetheless, they made for a very interesting ride to Lao Cai.

Determined to get on a sleeper bus to Kunming that night, we hurriedly crossed the border into Hekou. Just when we thought that Kunming was within sight, I was the subject of a drama that unfolded at the Chinese immigration. Apparently, trusting Aly's account of the mandarin exchange he had with the officers, they suspected that my old Singapore passport was a fake. They even questioned my inability to converse in Chinese after testifying that I am Singaporean. I mean... HELLO? Haven't they heard that there are Malays, Indians, and Others in Singapore? And to think that they are working for the imiigration authority... how ignorant. Worse still, the hold-up made us missed the Kunming bus by 15 minutes. We had no choice but to stay the night. While walking around Hekou after dinner, we spotted an unusual sight. Right there, on a square overlooking the Vietnamese border, was a group of middle-aged ladies gyrating to Hindi tunes! Aly sure got a taste of home. We found that peculiar and entertaining at the same time!

We left for Kunming the next morning. The ride was forgettable but the scenery definitely wasn't. The bus trailed up and down steep valleys that threatens the courage of even the bravest of souls! 9 hours later, we made it to Kunming safe and sound, albeit underestimating the weather. I had my first taste of winter the moment i stepped of the bus. Although known as the City of Eternal Spring, situated at around 1600m above sea-level, Kunming made for a chilly night out, at least for me. On the way to our hostel, we met Osman, a street-vendor selling the best tasting beef satays we ever had. We also took the chance to ask him about Aidiladha celebrations in Kunming and he kind-heartedly gave us directions to the central mosque. After checking in, we had dinner at a now-defunct Muslim Quarter (sadly) and did a walkabout where we met Mansor, another street-vendor. We were amazed at the 'visibility' of the Muslim community in Kunming. As we headed back to the hostel, we concentrated on the prospects of celebrating our first Aidiladha in a foreign country and social context.

More of the celebrations and the journey to Lijiang and Zhongdian later. Now that we're high up in the mountains, 3460m above sea-level to be exact, the internet certainly doesn't come cheap and easy! If you must know, we'll be heading up to Deqin tomorrow ad then back to Kunming. Shall catch up then!

en-VY 07 - Blogging Backlog

2007-12-20T19:23:00.000+08:00

Phew~ Finally got hold of a computer with internet access after 4 days of oblivion! And having said that, surely you'd expect 4 days worth of blogging backlog. Oh well, I shall attempt to make this entry a less painful read than it is for me typing it. By the way, I am writing this in an internet cafe right smack in the middle of Kunming while waiting for our overnight bus to Lijiang. So pardon me if the entry gets 'cut off' prematurely as it would probably mean that I would have to rush off to the bus station...

17 Dec 07 - Juan Tana Mera

Ok, that was lame~ anyhoots, it was indeed our last day with Juan, and Fabius. Juan will be off to Halong Bay while Fabs will be making his way back home to attend a cousin's wedding (bummer!). How did I start the day off? the usuals, off course. So, I got up at around 6.30am and wandered the depth of the streets (the infamous Hanoi old Quarter, mind you) alone. Yup, I figured that it's the best time to get inspiration for nice photographs. This time round, inspiration came in the form of an elderly Ang Moh who, I assumed having lived, or visited, Hanoi for some time now, offered a photography tip as I was triggering happily on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake. It was timely off course as I wouldn't want to waste good photo opportunities high up in the Tibetan highlands with my dismal photographic skills.

The rest of the day was pretty much mundane as we were rather lethargic by midday. Had lunch at the Whole Earth Restaurant where I met a mid-aged Australian who was waiting outside the restaurant waiting for an Irish couple for lunch (you would hear of him again later!). We purchased train tickets to Lao Cai (as they no longer offer a straight route to Kunming) at 82000D for hard seats (yes, we're 'budget through and through) and then later walked back to Shoe Street to have my broken sandals repaired.

Later that night, we had our last dinner with Juan who had had quite an interesting day out at the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre. Now, here's where the mid-aged Australian appeared again, this time startling me from the back as I was engrossed viewing the display of a DVD shop waiting for Aly and Fabs to rummage for great buys. It was odd, we thought, as we bumped into him plying the streets of the Old Quarter thrice that very day. I hope it's not any sort of a lucky charm...

After dinner, we headed for a local 'beer garden' which was, really, 3 stalls offering local beer for 2500D a glass at a back alley junction. Aly insisted that, despite the many photographs taken of him nd Juan engaged in a hearty conversation flanked by two glasses of beer at the forefront, only Fabs and Juan had their generous share of alcohol that night. Nonetheless, the 'humbling' experience (sitting on low stools by a less-than-hygienic roadside al fresco style) was a memorable seal to the night...

*Shitzer, the bus' calling... watch this space!*

en-VY 07 - Hello Hanoi

2007-12-16T23:45:00.000+08:00

I fell in love with Hoi An so much that I actually woke up at 5am local time to catch the sunrise. Unfortunately, the sky was pretty much overcast but witnessing the town slowly awakens to the bustle of fishermen pulling ashore at the Central Market and the steady stream of school children on bicycles clogging up the streets was priceless!

I only managed to spend an extra hour by myself in the town centre before heading back to the hotel for the connecting bus ride to Hue. It wasn’t a long ride but a boring one nonetheless. Upon reaching Hue, we did not waste any time and headed straight for the citadel. Located just across the river from where the bus dropped us off, the citadel, to my surprise, remained largely intact! The highlight for me was definitely the visit to the imperial enclosure within the citadel (it was well worth the USD4 compared to the dismal My Son Holyland). The enclosure itself was a ruined replica of the Forbidden City but the thought of what it could have been like just a century ago left me awe-inspired.

The scorching heat did not make the visit to the citadel any more conducive but I must admit that I enjoyed myself thoroughly! 3 hours marked the limit of our visit before we headed back across the Perfume River for lunch at Omar Khayym’s just in time for the evening bus to Hanoi.

We were fortunate to have met Juan again on the ride to Hanoi that night. It was the worst ride by far but he kept me company throughout most of the night. The unprecedented meet-up also proved favourable for both parties because we got a discounted rate at the Nam Hai 1 Hotel within the Old Quarter for just USD5 a night/person, plus the company of someone new.

Hanoi, in all its hustle and bustle, tucks in an old world charm that pervades its Old Quarter. Coupled with the perfect cool air, the undoubted heartbeat of Hanoi is a traveller’s paradise and playground – plenty of food, cheap bargains, and surprises at every corner. Truly gems are the Bia Minh (excellent milk coffee) and Whole Earth Restaurant (very reasonable price). I personally adore the way in which the streets are categorized according to the goods sold on them! It is efficient and charming at the same time! And with so many things going on at the same time (shoppers haggling, cars honking, hawkers touting, and bikes zipping) there is truly no short of the perfect photo opportunity!

Much of Hanoi is left to be explored…

en-VY 07 - The Hoi An Adventure

2007-12-14T20:23:00.000+08:00

USD22 can really get you a long way… a long way indeed, but at the price of a sore bottom. We decided that an open ticket was the best way to get to Hanoi via Hoi An and Hue, especially because we (or rather, Aly and Fabius) intend to get to Hanoi by Sunday morning to catch the evening’s clash between Man U and Liverpool. While the open ticket was a good idea, the choice of bus company proved a mistake, as the story unfolds…

We were on an overnight bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An when Fabius discovered that his Lumix and Ipod were missing. When we raised the alarm later, to our dismay, the co-driver showed very little emphathy and did nothing much to help us recover the stolen belongings. He did a very brief search, informed the driver, and went back to sleep. We were surprised at his lack of concern, especially Fabius who had to deal with the loss and was clearly too distraught to get any sleep.

If that wasn’t enough, we attempted to make a police report at the Hoi An Police Station. This proved to be a greater challenge as no one apparently understood the concept of insurance and our intentions were quickly misconstrued. We had a hard time explaining that all we had wanted was to get a report done for the sake of claiming insurance. This did not come through until much later when a male officer entered to clear up the mess. By then, the damage was done – raised voices, frayed nerves, aching calves shuttling between the station and the ticket office, and sheer frustration over misinterpreted messages. In the end, the report was never completed but we managed to end it all on a lighter note and both sides apologised for the miscommunication. There was goodwill after all amidst crisis…

That aside, the bus ride was not eventful, with the exception of Juan, a 27-year-old Chilean travelling alone on SEA. It took us quite a while to open up to each other but as soon as we reached Hoi An, we were separated into different hotels. That very morning, we booked into Ving Huy Hotel just outside the main town. Upon checking in, we signed up for a USD3 tour of the My Son ruins. I must admit that I had been warned against it but the price seemed reasonable, only to find out later that it was not inclusive of the USD4 entrance fee. Having visited Angkor Wat, the Cham ruins did very little to ignite any inkling of interest in a temple freak like me. Nonetheless, the brief trip gave me the chance to get to know 2 dutch ladies, Miraelle and Ilse, as well as a Canadian couple, Sharon and Roger, who were also ‘duped’ into signing up for the half-day tour. I had a meaningful exchange indeed with the Canadian couple who will be spending Christmas at Cua Dai Beach just outside Hoi An.

Hoi An is a quaint little town that, with its stunning French architecture and laidback yet colourful lifestyle, I grew to love. I’m not too sure if the same could be said about Aly (because he finds it difficult to appreciate such fine things in life) as well as Fabius (who lost his mood along with his beloved camera and Ipod) but I sure had a wonderful time capturing Hoi An’s understated grandeur in still life.

en-VY 07 - Saigon Reflection

2007-12-12T22:06:00.000+08:00

I am writing this in the capacity of a foreigner who has come to love a city that teems with life, where poverty and luxury come in such close contact as the pebbles in a gurgling stream, in his brief 3-day stint – Saigon.

Saigon, emblazoned in its new moniker, Ho Chi Minh City, reeks of old charm and simplicity. However, a short walk on the streets slaps you with the reality that modernity has indeed caught up with this cosmopolitan of 7 million. “If you visit Saigon in 2/3 years time, you probably have to walk,” our guide chirped as he drove us to Cu Chi early this morning for a visit to the infamous war tunnels (USD5 plus entrance fee of 70,000d per person). That is how bad the streets will be congested by then…

Just yesterday, as we walked along Duong Pasteur in search for a popular ice cream parlour that I came across an old lady peddling herbs at a street junction. I gestured to take a photo of her, but in that brief exchange of hand signals, I understood why she was reluctant to accede. I guess money has caught up with everything… but everybody needs to get by, at the expense of a ready smile…

Across the street, a group of men nestled on the sidewalk watching their fellow countrymen clinch a spot in the SEA Games soccer finals against the Burmese… and suddenly, it occurred that we are not that different. Despite the glaring poverty and hardship, we still share a passion for sports and above all solidarity with their fellow brothers. As I reflect back on the 3-day journey we had here, what struck me the most is the hospitality of its people, how they are humbled by circumstances. From the owner of the Bombay Muslim Restaurant near Sheraton, to the shopkeeper at The Post, to the ladies who took care of us at Kim’s, they share a common intrigue and appreciation in cultures that are ever so foreign to them. And it’s amazing that that had never threatened their simple way of life.

Saigon hides its many alluring back alleys and colonial grandeur amid towering glass masses and concrete slabs, but one would be quick to agree that they only escape the eyes of those who fail to stop and smell the roses. I’m sure many have escaped me in this many, and regrettably so. But as long as the spirit yearns for a quick getaway from the hassle of life, Saigon will always be there to welcome with open arms…

en-VY 07 - The Road to HCMC

2007-12-11T15:12:00.000+08:00

It was a promising start… until we reached the airport! Our Tiger airways flight, scheduled at 1240h, was delayed to 1700h due to technical difficulties! Then, it started to pour (thanks to the monsoon!) and that too threatened to push us back for the day! It wasn’t until 1745h when we finally took to the skies… it was a TURBULENT day, literally…

We met up with Fabius at HCMC’s spanking new Tan Son Nhat International Airport in the evening. We had the privilege of making new acquaintances, Murni and Anne, who were Singapore-born Jakarta and Perth residents respectively. The brief chat we had with them offered us some assurance as it was both our first time visiting HCMC.

We took a cab (no more buses after 1800h, bummer!) from the airport to the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker’s district for USD7. The ride left us awestruck… both at the amount of the mostly two-wheeled traffic as well as the dexterity of the riders in weaving through the tangled commotion.

Entrusting our fate in the hands of the travel bible (Lonely Planet of course!) and Faizal’s suggestion, we managed to find a decent accommodation at Minihotel Alley. However, we did not get a room at Mimi’s (as Faizal recommended) so we opted for Kim Hotel instead (USD15 for three). It turned out to be a fair option, especially after a harrowing experience with a persistent hotel owner on the adjacent street, in what we christened the Street of the Angry Lady.

It did not take us too long to settle down as our hungry stomachs soon guided us to the streets in search for food. After a short walkabout, we settled for Hoa Don Spicy Indian Restaurant. A reasonable spread on the menu but the execution left us much to be desired. Terrible Tom Yum, according to Aly. I couldn’t agree more… we squeezed in another short walkabout, only to find ourselves harassed by two ladies on bikes!

This morning saw us exiting to the streets at an ‘unearthly hour’, by Vietnamese standards... By 0945h, the streets were abuzz with the ubiquitous horde of motorcyclists. We made our way to Pho 2000 for some wholesome Vietnamese noodles (at least I think so) and then right into the adjacent Ben Thanh Market for some knick-knacks. We got ourselves some good deals!

Oh well, here we are back at Kim’s at 1400h local time, blogging because Aly had to settle some school admin at noon. We’re sure to hit the streets again in a matter of minutes before contemplating a bus ride up to Hoi An as early as tomorrow night!

en-VY 07 - The Wait

2007-12-09T19:48:00.000+08:00

Ok, the flight is tomorrow (1240hrs) and by this time tomorrow, I assume we would all be sipping some serious Vietnamese coffee on a roof top cafe somewhere in HCMC! The worse part is... I CANT WAIT FOR TOMORROW TO COME!

Anyway, Faizal and Layla just got back (via email of course) about the trip! 4 days after departure and they're in Hanoi already, waiting for the ride to Halong. A few (un)healthy developments though:

1. Flower's guesthouse in HCMC upped the price to USD12 per room. However, the one right next to it promises 10USD rooms with free internet!
2. Stay at Hello Vietnam in Hanoi! It's on the same street as Lonely Planet's author's pick (Citygate) which sadly increased their price to 20USD...

Thanks Zal! Shall await more news from him soon...

And oh, we may skip Nha Trang entirely just so that we could spend a little more time in Hanoi! Watch this space for the latest on-the-trip updates!

en-VY 07 - Head Start

2007-12-05T04:13:00.000+08:00

Ok so here I am at the airport in the middle of the exam week, sending Faizal and Layla off to Vietnam… sheesh I am sooo excited I could barely wait for that extra 5 days!

Before Faizal left, he had kindly documented his two-week Vietnam foray last December for our perusal. I shall spare those details here as I would paint this site with a journal of our own but the document gave us a much-needed head start considering the severely limited planning time due to the exams!

So here’s a list of some noteworthy accommodations he patronized in his previous trip:

Hop Yen Hotel (Hoi An): 16A, Nhi Trung
Ocean Stars Hotel (Hanoi): 45, Bat Su Street
Hau Guesthouse (HCMC): 40/9, Bui Vien Q1 (near Sept 23 Park)

Since Faizal will be in Vietnam again from today till the 15th, we have planned for him to leave a ‘trail’ of photographs along the way just so the guesthouses’ owners could recognize us when we get there! Let’s just see how this amazing race-inspired trail works out!

Can’t wait! … ok, back to revisions now~

en-VY 07 - A New Beginning

2007-11-26T23:04:00.000+08:00

Two very good news!

1. Spoke to Nazri and… yay!! He agreed to loan me the SLR, not without some rules of course! And I sooooo can’t wait to get it from Naz… sometime soon ya!

2. Finally, found a name for the trip! Told Aly about it, and honestly, both of us are tres proud of it!! From now on, the trip shall be known as….

“en-VY 07” – abbreviation for “en route – Vietnam Yunnan 2007”

Vietnam & Yunnan 07 - Exhilaration

2007-11-25T14:37:00.000+08:00

What a stunning coincidence! The New Paper on Friday published a two-page spread on Sapa in northwest Vietnam. I couldn't help, as usual, to hyper-ventilate when I told Aly all about it over dinner that very evening!

Also, Layla and Faizal finally made up their minds, or rather Layla cos I'm not sure as to what extent Faizal's involvement is since he is away in Krabi now. Thanks to Aly who alerted us of cheap tickets to Ho Chi Minh City, Layla secured two tickets for a tour around Vietnam and then Bangkok from 5 - 18 Dec 07. Looks like we won't be meeting them for the trip afterall.

Anyway, Shamil and Shyamira had expressed interest in joining us for the Kunming-Hanoi leg of the trip! We'll see how that goes as nothing is concrete for them yet at the moment. This should be very interesting!

Next up, see if I can convince Nazri to loan me his Canon D40 since he won't be needing it in Bangkok. Such a waste to miss all those photo opportunities on a digicam...

Vietnam & Yunnan 07 - An Update

2007-11-22T09:57:00.000+08:00

It has been a whirlwind with the exams drawing near... but that has never withered the excitement I feel about this backpacking trip! I have been studying hard (I hope) for the past week and since I have some time to keep my sanity in check, I might as well get down to laying out a few details and developments about the trip. Aly's been excellent at taking care of the trip's administration procedures and had secured us our tickets for the journey and back! We had intended to travel up the length of Vietnam and then into Yunnan as far up as Lijiang before heading back for Hanoi. But the lure of Shangri-La and the Tibetan border proved too great to ignore. So here's the amended schedule:

10 Dec 07 - Fly to Ho Chi Minh City
12 Dec 07 - Bus ride to Nha Trang
13 Dec 07 - Bus ride to Hoi An
15 Dec 07 - Bus ride to Hue
17 Dec 07 - Train ride to Hanoi
18 Dec 07 - Overnight bus or train to Lao Cai and then Kunming
20 Dec 07 - Leave Kunming for Lijiang and Tiger Leaping Gorge
22 Dec 07 - Overnight bus to Zhongdian and Deqin
26 Dec 07 - Long journey back to Kunming
27 Dec 07 - Overnight bus/train ride to Lao Cai and onward to Sapa
30 Dec 07 - Overnight bus ride back to Hanoi for New Year's Eve
01 Jan 08 - Morning bus leaves for Halong Bay for an overnight stay
02 Jan 08 - Return to Hanoi for one last visit
03 Jan 08 - Goodbye Vietnam; flight to KL and bus back home!

This time around, we will also be experiencing something new! We have a few guests who will join/leave us along the way:

1. Fabius will join us for our Vietnam leg from 10 - 18 Dec 07
2. Faizal and Layla may be joining us for Sapa on 28 - 29 Dec 07
3. Hazirah will join for Kunming and Vietnam from 27 Dec 07 - 03 Jan 08

The exams have yet to begin and I'm already exhilarated beyond believe about the trip! It's gonna be one helluva ride! Hang on tight!!!

Intriguing Indochina – 5 – 16 June 2007

2007-11-07T14:54:00.000+08:00

Day One (Living The Angkorian Dream – Siem Reap)

It was set to be a totally new traveling experience for all of us right from the very beginning – a whole new place with a brand new ‘crew’ for twelve days. The adrenaline was intoxicating as we touched down at Siem Reap, home to the infamous Temples of Angkor.

The short taxi ride to town was forgettable, save for the moment where everyone thought Aly had confidently plunked himself into the driver’s seat! We hadn’t realized that the car, like many others in Cambodia (and later Laos), was continental. We wasted little time as we headed straight for the heritage site right after checking in at the Angkor King Villa. The taxi cost us USD25, which we found to be a huge rip-off only later in the day.

Faizal and myself lived our Angkorian dream to the fullest – slowly sashaying through the ruins and carefully contemplating the detailed grandiose of what is the largest religious building the world has ever known! I’m unsure if the same can be said about Shahin (well, he’s been here before so a 2nd visit wouldn’t prove too much fun) but Aly was clearly disinterested (I blame the weather!). The visit culminated at the top of an adjacent hill for the over-rated sunset but the company of 4 adorable new found friends made the ascend worthwhile!

The night’s stay later proved to be fatal. We had opted out of an air-con room in the hope of saving precious bills (a two-fold surcharge for an upgrade is ridiculous!). The room became a sauna not long into the night and coupled with heavy traffic outside, everyone was guaranteed a turbulent ‘sleep’.

Day Two – Five (A Torrid Tale - Phnom Penh)

We were only too happy to check out the very next morning after what seems like the longest night. We took a bus straight for the capital, a 4-hour ride southeast. From the first instance, we concluded that Phnom Penh was going to be a scorching experience. While the Riviera was somewhat inviting with its colonial architecture, the rest of the metropolis offered very little in terms of tourist attractions. Psar Thmei fell short of Bangkok’s Chatuchak and Wat Phnom is only a little more than the ubiquitous stupa perched on a hilltop. It was here that Shahin thought we’d sneak in to escape paying the entrance fee. The hill was afterall a huge roundabout with decorative railings all around but we decided it was not even worth the effort. The city was ‘off-limits’ by day due to the scorching sun and simply too dark to navigate by night – yes, most streets are not paved, let alone lighted!

The main draws however were the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge, documented at the Tuol Sleng Museum and the killing fields at Cheoung Ek. Tuol Sleng was a former high school, converted into a detention camp during Pol Pot’s reign. It was here that many Cambodian elites were tortured, some to their deaths with unimaginable horror, in a bid to rid the country of possible opposition. It is worth noting that those who were executed were mainly government executives and professionals and their innocent family members because they were considered too ‘smart’. The bulk of the detainees were ferried to Cheoung Ek where they met their deaths in 89 mass graves, of which only 43 were ever excavated. It is within these grounds that more than 8000 innocent lives were blindfolded before being bashed in the head from the back only to tumble into huge holes that was to be their final resting place. A magnificent white stupa containing recovered bones now stands at the grounds in commemoration of the harrowing period. We owed our trip here to a well-versed guide who did well in relating to us the horrors that once befell Cheoung Ek.

Back in the city, all is not lost yet. The Riviera and the huge city park in the shadows of the War Memorial are huge hits with the locals who seem to have a penchant for outdoor sports of any kind. The most notable was this group of veteran chapteh players who stunned us with back kicks and elbow shots! Food on the other hand was not too much of a hassle either. Just a stone’s throw from Psar Thmei are 2 halal restaurants that serve typical Malay dishes at reasonable prices. Both were different in many ways. The one owned by true Cambodian Muslims boasted 2 waiters we called ‘Smart’ and ‘Mulia’. The other was owned by a Malaysian we named ‘Master of Sex’ after a long, and uninviting, lecture we had during one of our lunch escapades there. To quote him: “people must learn to master the four gifts: brain, mouth, heart, and konek/nonok”. Apparently we were too inexperienced for someone who has managed to maintain 3 wives in Kelang, Langkawi and Phnom Penh. Whether they know of each other remains questionable. Another outlet worth mentioning is the beef noodle shop that is popular with locals.

But Phnom Penh was to be more than just a sight-seeing stop for most of us. Day Three finally took its toll on Aly when his food-poisoning and diarrhoea became unbearable. I had to take him to the embassy where we were directed to a trusted Singaporean doctor at the Somary Clinic. Days Four and Five proved tough for Shahin and Faizal as well and sending Shahin to the clinic now became an all too familiar experience for me. Having overstayed for two days, we finally decided that it was best for us to leave the hell-hole for greener pastures up north. It was after dinner on Day Five that we decided to try our luck. Aly saw a glimmer of light from an already deserted bus terminus near Psar Thmei (yes, offices close after 6pm) and that was to be our ticket out of the hell hole.

Day Six (Crossing The Border - Don Det)

It didn’t take us long to get packing and leaving our germ-infested Spring Guesthouse room that morning. While leaving the comforts of a ‘working’ air-con system and a TV can be a drawback, we were all too excited about making it to Stung Treng and crossing the border for our second leg of the journey – Laos. The bus was a harrowing 9-hour journey through what is Cambodia’s backwater, pass Kompong Cham and the sleepy town of Kratie. The omnipresent palms and stretches of green pastures now became an all too familiar sight, but offered a great alternative to the Cambodian karaoke VCD played continuously in the bus.

Reaching Stung Treng at 4pm and knowing that we’re still a good 1.5 hours away from the border was somewhat a mix of relief and anxiety. While we were only too happy to have covered a considerable distance that day, we were also anxious about making it on time to go that extra mile past the border. It was the usual party of touts who greeted us as we alighted from the bus. After hearing two conflicting tales about actually making it into Laos on time, we decided to try our luck. This later proved to be the best decision yet. We met an Italian lady, Sylvia, along the way and quickly made companions with her. The border was a surprising collection of ramshackle wooden buildings and post with a draw gate, and you know that security is at its ultimate lax when the customs officer greeted us in singlet and shorts. Getting through was fortunately a brief but the ride thru the ‘jungle trail’ was a bumpy one as the car traversed a series of puddles of mud on the dirt track. This did not deter us from capturing a precious moment at the border mark.

Upon reaching the Laotian side, we transferred into a local bus (a truck with technicolour designs) driven by a pleasant lady. The trip to Ban Nakasong offered a much-needed respite from the strict confines of a stifling bus ride earlier. Soon, we found ourselves on our way to Don Det, an island part of the Si Phan Don ‘archipelago’, just in time to catch the sun bowing over the lifeline that is Mekong. Over at Don Det, we headed straight to Mama’s and Papa’s only to find it fully booked for the night. We settled for a nearby alternative and with basic rooms at USD3 and aching backs, we didn’t waste too much time settling in. Dinner at Mama’s and Papa’s was particularly enjoyable with the company of Sylvia, Mr Egg and his lovely 1-year-old son, Tat. It didn’t take us long before we decided to retire for the night.

However, the night was far from over. Back in our rooms, we were only too busy trying to find ways to keep ‘flying insects’ at bay and halfway through our chores, the generator went silent, along with the lights and fan. This was after Faizal came out halfway through a shower bearing news that there was no more water left and the tap had ran dry. Showers were then kept to a minimal and Aly had to ‘sacrifice’ to bathe in the outdoor toilet. While Faizal and I decided to remain in the room under the mosquito net, Aly and Shahin found comfort under the dazzling stars on hammocks strung out on the veranda. Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes! Unfortunately for me, the sleep on the hard mattress was an invitation to a serious neck ache. The rest were only too happy that it was now my turn groan in pain.

Day Seven (The Road North – Pakse to Vang Vieng)

As much as we fell in love with the laidback Don Det, we figured that another day there would seriously impede our journey up north. It was a glorious morning watching the Mekong slowly ebb. After requesting for the tap to be switched on that we realized the water had come directly from the river below, hence explaining its murky appearance. It wasn’t long before we left for breakfast at Mama’s and Papa’s.

Tat was his playful self yet again at the veranda. I couldn’t resist but to hold him and sat him right by my side as we had breakfast. He had the cutest smile ever and it was such a joy seeing him, let alone feeding him and watching him play with the kittens. The highlight, as Faizal would ardently point out, was my apparent negligence that left Tat in tears falling head first down the bench in an attempt to grab hold of a kitten. I maintained that it was a momentary lapse that was fuelled by an external factor beyond my control (I had to turn away only for a moment in order to reach out for my plate of banana pancake). Either way it left me feeling sore having caused an angel such pain.

The ride to Pakse, as Aly and Shahin would agree, was a grueling one not because of bumpy roads or stuffy interiors but we were unfortunate enough to have shared the local bus with that morning’s worth of market-bound goods – fish, bags and bags of them. The ‘stench’ was unbearable and the flies’ obnoxious but it was something we had to put up with for the next 1.5 hours. We were lucky we could stick our heads out of the vehicle for that desperate breathe of fresh air.

A bus and a tuk-tuk ride later, we found ourselves in a well-manicured but desolate town of Pakse, our transit onward to Vientiane. The scorching sun forced us into a roadside dessert parlour where we savoured the first inkling of the modern world in days – Cornettos and Walls’. The 8-hour wait warrants us to check into Sabaidy II Guesthouse for a short nap and quick refreshing showers. We were fortunate to have stumbled upon Jasmin Restaurant where Aly had the opportunity to satisfy his craving for ‘home’ food. Soon after dark, we found ourselves packing and on our way to the bus station for the overnight ride to the capital. The VIP bus was a worthwhile investment as it guaranteed all of us a decent night’s rest.

Day Eight-Nine (Verdant Valley – Vang Vieng)

Vang Vieng is Laotian’s answer to Guilin – stunning limestone outcrops framed by a crystal-clear river against a backdrop of clear azure sky. Unfortunately, the 4-hour ride from the capital through unforgiving mountainous terrain proved fatal for my sore neck. By the time we got off the bus, I was literally in the brink of collapse if not for the rest who offered to carry my load. We reached just in time for a late afternoon cycling trip around the town and into the surrounding countryside, after checking in at the new and very affordable Goodview Guesthouse overlooking the Nam Song.

We had time, before dark to explore the nearby limestone hills that bore so many caves. After a somewhat arduous task on bike and foot across a paddy field and trekking up some vegetation, we reached a cave, a modest one indeed, that gave us a glimpse of what Vang Vieng was made out of. Interestingly, we came across a sign after the expedition that stated that locals steer clear of these caves because they are believed to be haunted. A bit too late for buckling knees, we cycled back into town before sundown and quickly headed to an organic restaurant for dinner. I was already developing a fever as a result of stifling the pain and decided that a good Lao massage was necessary. While the rest spent some time browsing the local stores, I was in for a ‘back-breaking’ ordeal that proved to be essential. An hour later, I emerged more refreshed and definitely more ready to face the adventure the next day had to offer.

We woke up the next day with the promise of an adventure. At USD9 per person, the tubing, caving and kayaking expedition from 13km north of town was not to be missed! We had the company of 2 Britons who had signed up for the same trip.

The expedition began with a caving cum tubing trip into an underground river. The whole 1km stretch back and forth (500m each way) was much fun. It was a totally new experience for us all, wading on an inflated rubber tyre with headlamps and a battery pack round our neck. While the cavern itself was virtually lifeless, the cool water was welcoming that none of us could resist taking a dip the moment we exited the cave. We were then treated to lunch, a sumptuous one indeed with fried rice, baguette and beef kebabs before beginning the second leg of the expedition.

We did a minor trek around the Tham Sang village to nearby caves where locals have erected altars dedicated to Buddha and other effigies. We then boarded the van down to another village where we were to start our kayaking trip. It was to be a long ride if not for the many ‘bars’ along the way. The river itself was uneventful, with a series of grade I and II rapids, but the surrounding karsts that loomed above the banks offered more than just a scenic row downstream. Our midway stop was a thud-thumping makeshift bar on the Nam Song that boasted a wooden swing where patrons utilize to jump into the river. We reached in time to shelter form the short spell of ferocious downpour. Faizal and Shahin decided to have a try at the swing but were rudely turned away. Apparently, Asians had to put on the life-jacket before taking the plunge, an outright discrimination on our part. Whatever the reason may be, the damage was done as we kayaked the rest of the way down back to the town.

Save for the ‘rejects’ incident, the expedition was an enjoyable experience. Before we retired for the day, we spent one last night roaming the town’s streets where Faizal and I tried the quintessential Laotian staple – sticky rice. It was, to our dismay, a ‘dry’ affair. We bought our tickets back to the capital and headed back for a good night’s rest. By then, much to my dismay, we thought it was best we cancel the trip north to Luang Prabang.

Day Ten (Back To The Capital – Vientiane)

Apart from the magnificent views from our room’s balcony, the morning was uneventful. We had breakfast at Luang Prabang Bakery (ironically) and returned to the guesthouse to wait for our ride. We were fortunate that the ride back was far more comfortable than the earlier one considering that it was only a fraction more expensive. Just a bit after noon, we found ourselves on the streets of Vientiane hunting for a place to spend the night. It did not take us long before we found the perfect of sorts at Lao Youth Inn. While the room was not particularly appealing, the manager’s daughter was a strong enough draw – even I admitted that she was well worth our stay.

Much of the day was spent in the room playing senseless card games. It was in the late afternoon that we finally left the confines of the room to explore the quaint nerve of Lao P.D.R. The town of 200,000 strong Laotians made up for its lack of substantial attractions (That Dam and The Patuxai were the only ‘noteworthy’ ones) with the ease of navigation. A short walk later found ourselves back at our guesthouse. All except Aly went out for a quick bite by the waterfront just across the street from where we stayed. The grilled fish, chicken and spring rolls made for a good snack along with cool beverages.

Day Eleven (Hello Thailand – Udon Thani)

We had breakfast at the famed Scandinavian Bakery before checking out at noon. We then made our way to Talat Sao – arguably Vientiane’s commercial and transportation hub. Although it is stocked up with goods to the brim, it was still a far cry from Chatuchak so shopping was not particularly rewarding save for the local girl who paddled handicrafts down the street beside Talat Sao Mall. Haggling was a pleasure and with the good photo opportunities presented, it made up for an enjoyable ‘trading’ experience. We ‘camped’ in the air-con comfort of the new mall as we await our departure to Udon Thani at 4pm.

Crossing to Thailand via the Friendship Bridge was far less a hassle than we would imagine. Nonetheless, compared to the non-existent border security at Si Phan Don, the step-up made for an experience that is closer to home. Udon Thani, like the ‘bible’ mentioned, was uninspiring and not worth the stay in the backpacker’s trail. However, the ubiquitous modern amenities such as 7-11 stores and a full-blown mall in the town center made Aly a jolly fellow. This prompted Aly to lament that we should have been in Udon Thani a day earlier instead of spending the night at Vientiane. A KFC meal and a movie treat later, we found ourselves ready to leave it all behind and embrace the comforts of home.

Day Twelve (Bon Voyage – Singapore)

It was by far our earliest morning. We quickly packed and left straight for the airport from our hotel. I, on the other hand, left Indochina with a heavy heart… so many things, so little time, too many left unaccomplished… vowing to return in the near future…